Thanks Ehlerz. Is this 'box' a B&O piece of kit, like the BeoLink PC? Could you please provide more details. Mike

Today B&O sent an email re the new BeoLink app for the iPhone (http://www.bang-olufsen.com/beolink-home-controller-iphone-app). I downloaded it, and was hoping for some for instant action, but the app started 'searching'. Can anyone fill me in on the rest of the requirements ... for example, is the BeoLink gateway anything more than a masterlink

In Oz we're heading into regular DAB+ broadcasting. Many companies like Sagem, Philips and Bush are again putting out portables for the home. I'd like to suggest to B&O that they consider rebuilding the BeoLit 600 with digital radio, FM and AM as the three 'band' types. This may be a hard ask, but some of us would treasure a little

Hi batfab, There'll probably be some trial and error to come, but my first move would be to test the HDMI output from the computer with a standard TV monitor before trying it through the BS3. If the computer drives the TV monitor, chances are it should drive the BS3. Mike

You won't lose anything in sound, according to the book. BL8000s don't use icepower and have a frequency range of around 52 to 20K Hz. The BL3's are similar with 50 to 20K, so no issues, and they save power. Aesthetically you'll gain a pair of speakers that will match your BL2, but it's a designer issue as you say. BL8000s are iconic

Mani, it does. There's probably opportunity to switch from fixed to variable output via the set-up menus in your TV.

Hi Mani, You obviously have a very recent TV, so the pre-amp issue will be a dead one. Just plug the audio outs (one L and one R) into your BL 8000s (checking L as left when watching in front of the screen). You'll love the sound. As soon as the speaker detects a signal, it turns on. I understand you'd need several minutes of silence before

Johnny, any 4 to 6 ohm speaker pair (without amps) rated at about 80 to 120 watts RMS should be fine for your needs. Connect them to the 7000 with good figure-eight wire, your B&O seller will be able to point out where the positive pin and the negative spade are in the sockets --- he/she may even wire up some leads for you. Non-B&O brands are

Hi Woodman TA, I'm guessing from your shorthand that you only have one HDMI/DVI input on your system? If that's the case, to add an Apple TV and use the HDMI, you'll need an HDMI wireless switching box, say with four inputs and one output. Most are remote capable and some can 'learn' commands using IR. If you have converted DVI to

Thanks for the info Damatt. It's a shame B&O don't offer a downloadable PDF---the wait for each page load makes the catalogue more of a 'show' than it need be. But perhaps that's the idea ...