I received Jeff's board yesterday.  Physically it's different from mine.

Electrically I think it's the same.  And check it out - broken in just about the same place as I broke mine!  Now I don't feel as big a bonehead.  Very nice repair job - way higher quality than my 80% attempt.

chartz:

Interesting link to a Tim Jarman post about what he did to Peter's Beocord:

http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=48128

No trouble for me so far, we'll see what happens in the long run!

I think Tim Jarman's modification may be what my deck needs.  But, let me back up.

So yesterday I got Jeff's board in the mail, and this morning I installed it into my deck.  As noted above, physically the boards appear different, but electrically they turned out to be equivalent.  Once the board was installed, I was able to get playback to work, as long as I held (with a finger) the trailing capstan back away from the tape.  (This was with the deck still disassembled.) 

When I hold the trailing capstan away from the tape, the leading capstan more fully engages.  The deck would play at a speed close enough to correct so that I could recognize that music was playing (listening on headphones).

For anyone who has been inside a BC5000, you know the capstans are slotted onto a common bar.  The mechanism may work as sort of a teeter-totter (sorry if that's an American term).  After reading Tim Jarman's notes as linked by Jacques, I figured there was no adjustment to make on the deck to help the teeter-totter.  I put the deck back together, and my alignment of the entire tape mechanism isn't quite perfect.  Eject won't work without a bit of help.  Alas, putting the deck together didn't lead to better capstan functionality.

Time to quit for the day and get ready for some American football playoffs.  Go Detroit!

Yes, it is adjustable; there is a complete procedure in the service manual. You need a dynamometer though.

Also check that the sliding carriage fully engages to its mechanical stop.

Odd that my board was physically different - running change I assume. Wonder which is the later board?

Anyway... OMG, I can't believe my board had the same (repaired) break! I did not notice!!!

This is a picture showing a B&O maintenance workshop, circa 1980. Now how ironical is that?

I guess he did break the right PCB!

And I love the TV set sitting on the Beomaster!

Hi!

Now I have a bad Hall sensor (for the auto-stop circuit) to replace. It doesn't detect any magnetic field, so I suppose it is kaput! The symptoms are that all functions work but the spool motor will stop after 4 seconds. Holding the buttons for more than 4 sec. will allow play, rewind and FF to keep working. But then auto-stop won't work... All this with the belt in place of course!

I have ordered one on eBay.  The rest of the deck works nicely! I spent quite some time adjusting that eject mechanism though!

Thanks Jari, Jeff, Rich and Martin for the belt set!

Hi,

The new hall effect sensor works fine! It set me back £2!

Contact me if you need the seller's address.

Anyway, all is fine now. Be careful, the sensor must be very close to the magnet, the support plate being in effect perfectly vertical! On my deck it had been pushed well away, thus fouling the PSU caps underneath, and, possibly shorting something?

And no, the melted plastic isn't me!

Ah yes, Hi-Fi World... Probably the only mag that isn't biased against B&O, quite the opposite in fact!

Next to its new friend... Waiting for the Beomaster 4400/Beogram 4000 (a new shelf will be required).

It looks beautiful.  My Beocord 5000 refurbishment is still off a ways in the future but I am taking in all of this great information. Great job.

Thanks!

Well, we're eagerly following your Beomaster 6000 thread, and we understand your priorities... I'm sure it will eventually turn out to be something silly. But those stupid problems are always difficult - nay, nigh on impossible! - to diagnose. I know. See my Beomaster 8000 thread, still not solved.