Jacques the Neon problem is almost certainly the reed switch. You can try repositioning but maybe just replace the the thing. They are cheap enough!

Thanks Olly. Actually I've got one in stock, so I may well end up replacing it!

Does anybody know whether it's worth replacing any caps in these decks? Mine has its original big grey ones, which appear to be fine... but they are 35 years old! I admit to not having tested the deck with an osciloscope though.

What are the caps you had to replace in yours?

Mine has the original greys too from what others have said caps aren't a major problem in these decks. Not tried scoping either - could be interesting.... I replaced a couple of electrolytic caps which were required, that's it!

My resolution (just decided) is to finish a ESR meter from EPE mag I got all the bits but I struggled to print the double sided board - got a brother printer and of ALL lasers they are not good for printing arhh!!

I usually print two transparent rhodoid sheets and superimpose them to have enough contrast...

Today the neon light took 20 seconds to light up...

You use UV Jacques? I have a box but the cost of coated boards has always put me off! I might try the local printers I believe the problem in my case is that Brother use organic based inks where plastic based are best. It is doing my head in because it looks like a lovely meter when completed with a very large range!

Anyway have you tried moving or replacing the reed switch yet?

Yes I use UV with photo-coated glass-epoxy. I use the Xerox machine at work.

Nope, I haven't replaced it yet but I'll definitely do it, perhaps next week when I have some time.

Hello everybody!

Just a quick note to tell you that the Beogram 4000 has performed beautifully since I finally fixed it. The sound is a little dry and indeed lacks euphony (this is not what I like anyway, you know, the Thorens/Linn school) but on the other hand I think it is quite analytical. And sooo elegant! I choose to use a Soundsmith SMMC20EN (a very dry device, this), but I also have original B&O MMC20CL and EN cartridges as well as one MMC4000 to repair.

Haden Boardman from Hi-Fi World thinks the real problem of this table is the platter ribs which can't support the record as it should and thus compromises the deck's abilities. To him at least, it doesn't sound "great".

By the way, can anyone hear a difference between say the Beogram 8000 with its ribs and a later 8002 with a flat surface?

I saw a picture of a 4000 series deck with a flat platter... How would it sound like?

 

It is quite difficult to compare the 8000 and 8002 as they use different cartridges. Using SMMC cartridges would clearly make this easier (the 20 series is just a framework carrying the later style).

Various people have tried putting a flat deck on the 4000 type deck. I have seen a glass deck with a mirror finish with the radial ribs replaced by black lines do the detector still works. This deck used a record clamp as well and also had the well know Grado conversion for the cartridge. I have not heard this though. It wouldn't be for me - my hearing is not of the golden ear variety so the sound of the 4000 is very pleasant. I do think the 3000 Thorens has a lot more and better defined bass though. I wonder if just a clamp would solve any perceived issue? The spindle would need elongating though.

Aren't there "passive" clamps, meaning it is just a weight you put on the center (not too nice for the motor and bearing though...)? That would be a quick experiment, although those could just make the result worse on the outer edge as long as the ribs remain.

I never thought the clamps would do much unless the record was warped, anyway.

A clamp would couple the platter and LP together - and the 4000 platter is heavy. You would need some sort of puck centrally to avoid cupping the record! Clearly a mat would be another answer if just playing LPs - I tried this in the 80s with mixed results - quite frankly it looked rotten and took sometime to make - I cut out the shape of the ribs from a rubber mat. That was for a 4004 and made not much difference to my ears.

I think an old bashed up platter with ribs removed and suitably high mat is the answer here... Although I am a little surprised the ribs could make such a difference to sound but there you go!

 

@ Jaques have you got a link to that Hifi world review you mention?

Step1:

@ Jacques have you got a link to that Hifi world review you mention?

It isn't available anywhere on the Net. You have a PM.

So has anyone got a spare platter then?

By the way, who's going to print a strobe sticker for the Beogram 4000? After all it's available for the TD124!

 

Thanks for letting me look at that Jacques. Must say the 4000 didn't come away from that article in the best of light - I wish the author had qualified some of his opinions with a little more detail. Does everyone else agree with his opinion on surface noise? I for one haven't witnessed this but to be fair I haven't yet tried a new or re-conned cartridge - One of my new years resolution :).

As for the ribs, I guess the jury is out on this one - would like to see two comparable units same cartridge with a blind test, maybe someday!

BTW That article prompted me to think of a new signature idea....

 

Beogram 4000: "Resurrecting a duff unit is not a viable proposition" - by all but the most die-hard of Beoworld fans

 

Yes I was going to take my platter to a printers with an A3 size bed, clean up the resulting scanned image and then print it out. I will let you know if / when I get round to this!

Hi,

Could anybody here be nice enough to tell me what the thrust pad (the nylon insert) at the bottom of their bearings look like?

Mine has a small (1mm) hole through it and this doesn't look normal, but I may be wrong. I'm more used to traditional bearings, à la Thorens!

Do you run on your original grey caps? My motor has some trouble starting from cold but thereafter runs normally, the strobe being stable and not necessitating constant adjustments. Any thoughts?

Martin's advice is to replace the PSU caps, but what about the motor amp output cap? Is this known to pose any problems? The phase cap is new, but this change had no effect.

Otherwise, the deck works very well and is stable.

Thanks again.

Haven't read the article, but I am astonished by the zero-nada-zilch surface noise on my Beogram 4000. But they do have to be set up right. The reviewer probably didn't undo the transport screws, or the suspension didn't hang properly, allowing contact. What he thought was surface noise was probably noise transfer.

I am certain I once pondered the exact same question as you regarding the hole Jacques, if that helps!!! Cannot remember for the life of me which deck but was definately 400x!

Regards the motor I think either replace the cap anyway or scope the output and check against the manual. Personally I would do as Martin says! Check the motor current hasn't drifted since you last adjusted the pot may be oxidized and a bit unreliable!

 

Thanks Olly.

Step1:

I am certain I once pondered the exact same question as you regarding the hole Jacques, if that helps!!! Cannot remember for the life of me which deck but was definately 400x!

A new thrust pad anyone?

I just "filled up" the hole with a bit of teflon. The bearing now turns more freely, but I think a replacement is the order of the day.

Step1:

Regards the motor I think either replace the cap anyway or scope the output and check against the manual. Personally I would do as Martin says! Check the motor current hasn't drifted since you last adjusted the pot may be oxidized and a bit unreliable!

Always do as Martin says. I will replace all the capacitors in the motor amp and report back.

 

 

chartz:

A new thrust pad anyone?

Jacques,

Help me... which thrust pad is this? Pic?

burantek:

Help me... which thrust pad is this? Pic?

No picture, I couldn't manage to take one!

It's the white nylon disc at the bottom of the bearing. It seems to get perforated with use.

 

In its "natural" environment. Note the Beogram 8000 now sitting unused at the bottom!

It has remained silent with the teflon disc. Sorry about the Naks! (for the connoisseurs, a 480Z and a CR-4E)

Looks super Jacques - how did you sort the thrust bearing out in the end?

hehe just been to collect a Beocentre 9000. Seem to be non stop B&O at the moment for me :)

Hello!

 

Well as I said, I put a very thin teflon pad at the bottom of the shaft, on top of the existing perforated disc. Not ideal perhaps, but it works!

Hi everyone,

Just a quick word to tell you that my Beogram 4000 has worked flawlessly and sounds great!

What a turntable!

Do you still have the teflon disc in it, I have just taken my BG 2404 apart, the small switches had to be cleaned as stop and pause stopped working, maybe too little use, will use it daily now.