chartz:

Right and left movement work but if I can get a slow or fast movement to the right, I don't have both to the left, only slow motion works. Any ideas?

Fixed!

I glued a thin piece of plastic (<0.5 mm, 2X2 mm) under the alu selector at the place where the switch makes contact. This was in fact the plastic cap of that switch which was slightly worn. 

Now I've got to take some time to clean the platter... the problem is I don't want it to lose its shiny appearance. Any thoughts on that?

I believe the platters are coated in the same way as all the later alu platters... meaning don't use any kind of detergent and don't even rub too hard. If a stain doesn't succumb to water, leave it. If the coating starts to peel there's no way of getting it look even anymore.

Thanks. I'll leave it as it is then.

On another topic, my Beogram 4000 is one of the later 1974 models, where the shutter light 100Ω trimmer was factory installed. This is supposed to alter the brightness of the bulb to overcome the problem caused by different batches.

How do I adjust it? 

The service note doesn't give a clue.

I wouldn't worry about this too much, as it is more to do with back tracking than forward track, a feature which you will never see used! Basically the original method to adjust back track was to adjust the height of the shutter, but as this is not very easy to achieve satisfactorily the adition of the trimmer helps.

I would concentrate on getting the forward tracking right and not worry too much about reverse track because there is a lot of messing to get it right!!!

Regards the detector arm yes the circuit ensures the arm will not drop if the bulb is missing.

Regarding the keypads if the buttons feel different (i.e. some loose, some harder to activate) it could be because the bronze(?) strips have bent out of shape. It is worth IMO removing the keys and stripping to straighten the leaf springs if it is really bad. You can check the switches at the same time.

see here and here for pics. At the same time you can look at the switches properly. Some of mine were a little tarnished which could be the reason you required a spacer. Switch is floating for slow speed (from being grounded) and other pole needs to go from floating to grounded to gain the higher speed. Of course the point where both switches are floating is important for the slow speed!

You are doing a nice job Jacques :) I was going to write up my restoration but was waiting for a new wooden trim, or to try and make one myself however no need now :)

Ta Olly.

I'll come back when I have replaced the bulb... and re-aligned the arm!

Happy Christmas !

Yet another piccy...

Yes happy christmas hope you have a good holiday...

Beogram looks very clean :)

After a bit of cleaning and oiling (15W40!)... I didn't oil the platter. I just cleaned it with a slightly wet duster.

I rubbed the alu plates very hard after oiling, so that it is insensitive to fingerprints.

You will notice a scratch on the platter.

The proof of the pudding...

I got Martin's bulb this morning! After a rather lengthy adjustment of the arm, it finally works.

There you go: BG4000.MOV

You can't see the 33 illuminated trimmer but it works too. I just have a little AC motor noise  (a cyclic gentle tap), although the strobe shows it to be stable.

The arm lift/lower works fine, diametre detection (both 17 and 25 cm records) too, end of side poses no problems either. All in all, a fully working Beogram!

Well done Jaques looks good too :) Yes the trimmer lamps are quite dim but I think it is enough. One thing I love about this and the others is the ability to detect 10" records. Somthing the last line lost when losing the optical sensor. Kind of ironic considering these were designed to be operated remotely from other rooms in the house, even more ironic that the player would assume the 10" record to be a 12", and set the arm down accordingly  Not sure of any other record players that automatically detect 10" records though, I suspect there must be others!?

I would try to get to the bottom of that noise though...

Anyway, I think you can give yourself a pat on the back now, but only when the platter is DEAD level to the surrounding plates and centrally located

Platter now perfectly centered.

Unfortunately, the motor has a problem. It is noisy because its bearings are worn: too much play makes it noisy, even after lubrication...

By the way the white pulley is glued to the shaft... which shows it wasn't planed to be oiled anyway. And it is not openable.

The noise isn't that loud but it is still there. What am I to do please?

I'm glad to report that the noise problem was due to two combining factors: a belt that was too tight (borrowed from my DC-powered 4002), and the motor phase trimmer which was out.

Martin suggested the belt problem and was—isn't he always so—right...

Retro-fitting the old belt (that is a bit slippery) completely calmed the motor down. I guess it is still worn anyway, because it still clanks when on its own. A classic problem.

The Beogram now runs silently, but then of course I need a new belt!

Sound-wise, I tested quickly for hum and just to see whether some sound emanated from both channels... Victory here too!

Hello!

I'm testing the deck in earnest now.

The sound is a bit different from that of my Beogram 8000.

The bass is noticeably lighter, but treble retrieval seems superior (SMMC20EN on both decks). The 4000 is a bit noisier too.

There isn't much to it really, but the real issue for me is the mismatch to the Beosystem 6000!

chartz:

I'm glad to report that the noise problem was due to two combining factors: a belt that was too tight (borrowed from my DC-powered 4002), and the motor phase trimmer which was out.

 

Goes to show how important it is to follow every step of the manual Jacques, slapped wrist for you!

Regards the slippy belt make sure to get a new one, you might find if it gets worse the arm will drop onto the ribs when playing a 7 or 10" and the platter hasn't got up to full speed in time!

How is the 4000 noisier exactly? Also have you checked the weights with a scale? The spring on the 4000 will have worn slightly by now, so you might be seeing two slightly different stylus pressures...

Hi Olly,

Yes tracking weight was checked upon, and yes it was marginally out of balance.

Noisier because I can hear the arm when it moves past the micro-switches, and the servo motor itself is much noisier than the newer 8000's which I can't hear at all. This is clearly audible through the speakers on quiet passages. I guess that's why they went for the opto-elecronic detection in later decks, and better still, why they relied on counting in the last ones.

The slippery belt: yes I saw your post, but it's not that bad yet!

And hey, it sounds so much better than my SL-1200 mkII!!!

Did you see that one?

Yes Jaques that came up in my search this morning! Very very nice shape! Looks like it has lived in a box for 30 years doesn't it!

Anyway, regarding noise, I cannot hear noise on my 4000 through the speakers at all - on my 4002 I can hear at the very end of a record on the lead out just before the arm is raised but as the 4000 is slightly quicker to respond here. I have never bothered to reduce sensitivity to test noise levels... I might try that!

Have you checked if the servo moves at least once with every record revolution?

Also have you tried checking and adjusting the leaf springs under the metal plate maybe these are too tight. The switches really should not make any noise as they are simple leaf switches they don't have the sudden snap action of micro switches...

Step1:

Have you checked if the servo moves at least once with every record revolution?

Yes it does, it's a clockwork!

Step1:

Also have you tried checking and adjusting the leaf springs under the metal plate maybe these are too tight. The switches really should not make any noise as they are simple leaf switches they don't have the sudden snap action of micro switches...

Nope, I didn't do that, because I didn't want to alter the settings which are spot-on actually.  The SM says: 'adjust all contact springs so that they only just actuate' (which they do) but it doesn't say how to do it. Since it works well, I'm little inclined to do anything more.

After one hour of use, the deck gets entirely lukewarm!

chartz:

Yes it does, it's a clockwork!

It's good to see when it works like that isn't it :)

Well, if I am overly pedantic, your arm rest position is slightly out (sensor arm should rest half way over the panel divide), so if you want to be really fussy it could do with adjustment

But on a serious note you just bend the springs, and move laterally to adjust positions. If you are happy you are right to leave well alone...

edit* miss-read

Step1:

Well, if I am overly pedantic... 

You are, man. You are indeed!!

I went through the same perplexity (I have a 4002, remember) and then I looked inside...

The trimmer that was added on later decks required this new position. Doh!

Note: the photo was made prior to cleaning.

Hello,

It turns out two micro-switches are noisy in operation; they emit noise when pushed by hand, even slightly so (a spring noise, if you see what I mean). B&O were right in changing over to an optical system. It is much more elegant and reliable (especially the later IR versions), and SILENT!

For the carriage noise, the cause is the inappropriate pulley. Even though I had some success in adapting it, its motion isn't perfect, and it will never be... But at least it proves the turntable works! Thanks again, Jeff (aka Burantek here).

I need an original one I'm afraid, along with the missing plastic washer.

Apart from that, the deck sounds great. But it's true it runs quite hot (but then the power transistors are fixed to the chassis).

I love my Beogram 4000, and I really want it to run perfectly!

Thanks for reading this never-ending post!

Spend a nice New Year's Eve!

Hi,

Happy New Year!

The pictures of the pulley mod:

The bushing (now a sleeve) with drilled hole to let the clamping screw get through:

The assembled pulley:

Not perfect, but it works. As regards the noise (and not knowing what the original part was made of), I added a felt washer. The rotation is not perfect, but after close inspection, the pulley axle is not perfectly square to its flange!

PS: By the way, how do I stop the lids on my 4000/4002 deck making those horrible screeching noises (Screaming Jay Hawkins off the table)?

I tried lubricating the plastic sliders to no avail.

chartz:

PS: By the way, how do I stop the lids on my 4000/4002 deck making those horrible screeching noises (Screaming Jay Hawkins off the table)?

I tried lubricating the plastic sliders to no avail.

Yeah ! How do you ????????

Hi Jacqes hope all going well - been away for a break and missed the B&O stuff...

Anyway I personally like the switched approach of the 4000 although I agree the optical system is more elegant. I just hate the ultra noisey click effect micro switches they used, but I guess economy was the order of the day! Still, the leaf switches shouldn't be noisy I admit I can hear a small click but I really have to listen for it when operating without a record...

Not sure about the screach non of my decks have that problem! I would suggest the hinge is sticking and resonating through the plastic cover???

I noticed you are requesting info for the neon in another thread have you broken yours?

Hi,

As far as the screeching noise of the lids is concerned, I pathetically failed in lubricating everything... Still here! And yes the cover does amplify the noise coming from both hinges

The neon issue: it doesn't always light instantly. It may take a few seconds to light (especially from cold), but then it stays put! Maybe the reed contact I don't know.

The lid of my 6000 used to make noise as well (more like a creaky door) when nearing the top position. Stuff like that doesn't bother me much so I never did anything about it... and now, almost three years later, it is completely silent!