Evan:

1) Should I desolder the caps or is applying heat to unstable caps not safe? Or should I just clip the wires?

I just desoldered them - no risc to explode as they look like they have no more capacity anyway

Might smell a little strange though - open your windows

Evan:

2) What are [or who makes] good replacements for these three caps?

As I was probably the one with the "referred to" - picture: I got one of those as replacement:

They have the same diameter so are easy to attach.

The middle one still had capacity so I let it alone as there is no audible hum.

My repair was on a BM4000 but it is pretty similar. As the rated voltage says 70V I did use 100V Types. The 63V ones were smaller in diameter anyway. They don't have the eyelet terminal but I just bent the wire to a "U"-shape before soldering. Just to be sure: The pin closer to the white stripe with the minus symbol is the negative pole, it's not marked black like the originals.

Don't know where to get them in the States, sorry. But the type & make might help you. They were some 5 EURs each.

Looking more closely at the cap in your picture the black goo could really result from the caps leaking.

Good luck,

   Gunther

EDIT: oops, just realized that the question referred to professionals

and just another EDIT: Looking at the schematics the BM3000 only has 3000uF output caps and 60V power amplifier supply.

An 3300uF / 63V will do it then.

Looks like you are on your way to a successful repair Evan. I would assume that you will be replacing all the eletros not just the 3 big power caps.

Good afternoon everyone! Welcome back.

Yes Gunther! You were the one Thank you for posting the new cap, will start looking for them soon.

Here I have desoldered the right most power cap. In better light today, I have also noticed a slight bulge on the center cap - so it will without a doubt be changed. I would suggest you re-examine yours as well.

Thanks Richard, the amp caps will be changed as well as the single grey cap on the FM (I think) board.

And they're out! Only had to loosen one screw on the carrier, which is a good thing because I don't think I could access the other without removing a PCB.

Here's the close up

In this picture you can see where the center cap is just starting to bulge.

These caps look even bigger outside the BeoMaster, wow

Does the service manual account for all parts on the amp board? I'm starting to find taking inventory of these caps to be slightly difficult.

Oh and can you guys tell me how to read the original ROEs? example: 100/35 = 100uF, 35V right? If that is right, then some are 50 and 63V??!

Evan:

100/35 = 100uF, 35V right?

Yep. First uF, then voltage.

I'm not worried about the middle one in mine; the bulge is a sort of rupture joint "valve" (I had to look that one up in my dictionary ) where pressure can exit if getting too high. If it's not open it's still ok. Modern caps have a sort of cross on the top metal which fulfils the same purpose. They often bent up so their bulge is on top

Here's a view of the respective caps on my BM4000:

You can see the "bulge" is there, too. But it's perfectly ok.

Yes and there are many different values for the ROE caps. You can use higher voltage ratings if you want. Smaller caps are no more produced with "low voltage", e.g. there's rarely a 1uF/16V but more likely a 1uF/63V.

Are they the dark red type ones? They seem to fail more often than the orange ones. The red ones are often covered with white debris, look like cracked - they're dead. There are some nice examples from Eugene in the BM4000 thread.

You always kept them hidden as your pictures all show the solder side...

Anyway, good progress

   Gunther

Hi Gunther,

Just made two stops looking for replacements. I'm almost sort of glad to hear the big 5000uF cap is OK because StereoLab, a local shop wants $22.50(!!!) per 4700uF/80V Nichicon. They were also equipped with the post style contacts like yours. Did you get yours off of the internet? I am still waiting on the other shop to send me a price quote! - getting crazy. If I can find the big can for a reasonable price I wll go ahead and replace it, it will need changed eventually.

Here is a top pic of the amp board. The gray electrolytics are ok externally but they will be replaced.

Sorry my pictures are horrible, my daylight is fading.

Evan:

Sorry my pictures are horrible, my daylight is fading.

Did you ever give it a thought, working under artificial light, on my last visit to Home Depot I saw something new, a so called Desk Lamp.

Keep them coming Evan, Gunther, I learn something new every day

For caps take a look here

Søren Mexico:

For caps take a look here

Soren you revealed my source !!!

Best bet is to order online or if you want a kit buy one of Martins. Stereolab is gonna mark up anything they sell you 1-200 percent and it may be something sitting in drawer for god  knows how long or it may perhaps even be used.

Esco is also going to be expensive if you dont have an account and you will be limited to Lelon or NTE which are OK but certainly not an "audio" grade cap.

Make your list and order from Mouser and you will be getting the good fresh new stuff. Nichicon KW or FW will do or you can opt for Panasonic ECA. For the 3 big cans I would look for a 2 to 3000 hr cap at 105C.

Eugene:

Soren you revealed my source !!!

I'm so sorry Eugene

BTW, I've been shopping around for wirewound R 0.39 Ohm for my 901, there are 2 types, 1 square ceramic white, 1 looks like a fireproof, the last one is available, the ceramic is nowhere to be found, with what can I change them

I used these on my Beomaster 2000. Seems to work just fine. the closest in total value and tolerance I could find to match the originals.

It is the same value and I wouldnt be surprised if it aint the same wattage. Both sets were manufactured at the same time.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=MOX2CR39Jvirtualkey66000000virtualkey660-MOX2CR39J

Søren Mexico:

Evan:

Sorry my pictures are horrible, my daylight is fading.

Did you ever give it a thought, working under artificial light, on my last visit to Home Depot I saw something new, a so called Desk Lamp.

Keep them coming Evan, Gunther, I learn something new every day

Ok, I am working on the light issue - I'll post it soon

I found the Nichicon Muse KZ on another site, but they don't have the power caps I need, so 'll definitely be trying out Mouser! I am buying for this amp, my other small amp project and a CD player.

@Eugene Can I use these in both positions ?

Eugene:

Best bet is to order online or if you want a kit buy one of Martins. Stereolab is gonna mark up anything they sell you 1-200 percent and it may be something sitting in drawer for god  knows how long or it may perhaps even be used.

Esco is also going to be expensive if you dont have an account and you will be limited to Lelon or NTE which are OK but certainly not an "audio" grade cap.

Make your list and order from Mouser and you will be getting the good fresh new stuff. Nichicon KW or FW will do or you can opt for Panasonic ECA. For the 3 big cans I would look for a 2 to 3000 hr cap at 105C.

Well Richard, I can confirm your fear of Stereolab's "storage" of capacitors, the long haired old man brought out this little box of mismatched caps and some in fact did look used!

So far the only ratings I have found are exactly what you suggest, 2000+ hrs and 105 deg.

Dont be surprised to find crust under some of those grey cans Evan. My "good working" 4000 had a few and my BC 1600 was littered with them all over.

They are just as likely to leak on the underside as they are to crack through the bakelite casing and show up on top.

Okay Soren, found you a desk lamp!

Thats the way, thats the way, light from above

Good one Evan

Working my way around the Master, I need to get underneath the input/preamp board to get at potential hidden caps.

Removing 4 screws frees the board.

But wait this little black wire on the side is holding it back, only need to remove this one to release the board so it can be flipped over for inventory.

There it is! Just a few notes and now I can sit down and sort through that invaluable website - Mouser.

Alright everybody, the parts have finally been ordered!

All parts short of the 5000mfd power cap substitute were found on Mouser.

I will call it a night.

@Soren:

Søren Mexico:

BTW, I've been shopping around for wirewound R 0.39 Ohm for my 901, there are 2 types, 1 square ceramic white, 1 looks like a fireproof

Yes there are 2 different ones in the 901. Looks like one of them is bound to burn in case of a fault in the power output stage. That's the grey, smaller one. It's always this one that failed in all my BM901 / BM1100's. The squared one has more wattage.

At mouser it looks like this one might be a replacement, it's wire-wound like the original one while Eugene's seems to be metal coating. Electrically, I think both will do. This is a wire-wound one (sorry my mouser always points me to the german website):

http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/IRC/W21R390JALF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbXrIkmrvidJZ74nKwK95CyeT7vYVtHS0%3d

@Evan:

Out of curiousity, is your BM3000 a 104 or a 108 MHz one? There's a thread about that IIRC. Most of them, especially the later ones seem to be 104 only. I just got a hold of a 108 one that says series 1 on the label.

I found another picture of a failed grey ROE (from a BM1000):

That one cracked on top.

And - it's amazing how the thread almost doubled overnight - at least over MY night

  Gunther

Hi,

I repaired a similar Beocenter 3500 a while ago (here) and with new components it sounds just great.

I finally replaced the output capacitors, but it made no difference to the sound quality.

I still have to solve the phonostage noise on one channel though.

With the new SP12 it does sound superb!

I'm sure your 3000-2 will too!

Also look here and there!