I found a "near mint" Beogram 8002 on Ebay, including an "near mint" MMC2 cartridge.  It just arrived.Just unpacked from carton, attached the MMC2 cartridge, powered up, put on a record, watched the tone arm move over, stop at the right groove, and waited for the tone arm to lower, and waited, but it doesn't lower.   I adjusted the weight adjuster, but the tone arm doesn't lower.Does anyone have an idea what I need to do or consider?

I'd wait for the true experts to pitch in but I had the same problem on my 4000 - needed to lubricate the solenoid arm that does the raising and lowering. Assume same sort of configuration on the 8002 but as I say wait for the true experts.

Dylan 

Does it make a loud click when over the record? It should do! If not, the problem is the solenoid. The fail safe position for the solenoid is with the arm up. When the solenoid engages, the arm drops in a damped fashion. If it does click, it may need a little persuasion to drop! Take the cartridge off before 'persuading' it!

Dylan beat me to it! I am slipping!

Peter:

Dylan beat me to it! I am slipping!

Always shames me that I get so much out of Beoworld and don't give anything back - suddenly saw something I knew a bit about and no-one had answered so pounced! 

You support the site by being a gold member and by your friendly (and now informative) posts! And by being a card carrying member of the Beogram club!

I am dumbstruck by the near instantaneous response of expert advice.  I'll reply when I have results.Thanks!Jeff

I may have a solenoid if that turns out to be the problem (no promises but I've all sorts of bits laying around in my garage). Hopefully it is just the mechanism which needs a strip & lube but keep us informed and I'm sure this excellent deck will be up and running soon

 

Chris.

There is a "click" when the tone arm gets in position.  And the tone arm springs back up when I manually move it toward the record.  What exactly is involved in lubricating the tone arm?  It doesn't feel stuck, more like there isn't sufficient weight on the cartridge end.

I would have a look at the service manual which is available in a link from the "products" section of beoworld. This will tell you how to open the deck up. The solenoid, assuming it's the same as my 4000, is a piston-like affair with various linkages to the mechanism that lifts the arm. Then apply small amount of oil (I seem to remember sewing machine oil being recommended but I used WD40) to each link pivot. I also had to apply it to the actual piston and repeated work the piston in and out to gradually free it up.

Dylan 

Sorry I should have said that once you get the deck open you'll be able to see if the solenoid lowers the arm correctly but gets stuck or, if as you suggest, there is a problem with the balance of the arm itself - does it feel like you're pushing against resistance when you try and move it manually ? if so I suspect that the solenoid is getting stuck and the  lubrication will do the trick. If  there is no resistance then solenoid probably working and possibly an issue with the  balance of the arm. All will be clearer once you've opened her up.

Dylan 

I wouldn't suggest WD-40 - sewing machine oil will be much better. WD-40 is a bit rough and strips the lubrication - very good for seized rusty bolts etc but possibly a little rough for a Beogram.

Peter:

I wouldn't suggest WD-40 - sewing machine oil will be much better. WD-40 is a bit rough and strips the lubrication - very good for seized rusty bolts etc but possibly a little rough for a Beogram.

Do you think it would be worth my stripping mine down to get rid of the WD-40?  

I'd put some sewing machine oil on it when you can!

better start a thread on the sewingmachineworld forum and see if I can get some...

Check the cartridge tracking force, the only weight forcing the cartridge down.
Still no good ? - Check at the rear of the carriage, where the counterweight is.
There's a spot where a sharp point of the counterweight meets
the cast carriage chassis. Buildup of magnetism or similar can make the counterweight bind to the chassis, preventing the arm from lowering
or hold it for a while and then let the arm dump to the record without controlling the fall (no good for the MMC).

Lubrication is also essential.
My recommendation would be to NEVER use WD40 in stereo equipment.
WD40 contains rust releaser which is acid in some form and we don't want that inside a Beogram.
WD40 does not lubricate very well and evaporates in comparatively short time leaving behind a nasty, sticky mess of
some unknown chemicals together with what is left of the original lubrication that it couldn't dissolve.
WD40 and other 3-in-1 products are good for working on cars where bolts are rusty etc. in my opinion it's best left in the garage.

For use in Beograms, I would recommend using acid-free oil like f.e. sewing-machine oil.

Martin

now you've really scared me - looks like I'll be busy next weekend!

Damn! Take it this chip oil isn't much use either then
Quick story--
Some years ago, I was walking past a skip and, being unable to resist,had a good look inside. There was a full tin of Castrol GTX. I opened the lid and peered inside. Lovely clear syrup coloured oil. I thought I'd make better use of it than the skip truck driver in my Cortina MK3.
A few weeks later my car started to run badly then clatter and then a huge bang and multiple clattering!
To cut a long story short, the con-rod had snapped and the remaining bit had gradually pulverised the piston transforming it into a pile of metal filings in the bottom of the sump.
The local high school asked me if they could get the kids to fix my car (under supervision) and see if they could analyse the cause of the problem.
Turned out that after they sent the oil for detailed analysis it was ---
chip oil!!!
Moral of the story- If it seems too good to be true, it prbably is.
2nd moral- Use recommended lubricants only

Andy T.