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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012
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This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and 1st March February 2012

 

Latest post 06-05-2007 4:55 PM by sajpratty. 6 replies.
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  • 06-02-2007 2:09 PM

    Red Line 35

    Hey Pro's

    I'm new to this B&O world.

    I just fell in love with a pair of RL35 and bought them.
    Now i would like to open them up and examen them.

    There are a few forums on the RL45 and RL60 and how to,
    BUT the RL35 dont have any screws.
    I'm able to remove the straps by the two plastic screws on the back, but the front is still stuck.
    Any advice?

    The Doctor
  • 06-03-2007 6:25 AM In reply to

    Re: Red Line 35

    Very surprised they have no screws! I have the service manuals for all the Red Line speakers except the RL35 and the last ones. All seem to be held together with screws - often down deep holes!
  • 06-03-2007 7:40 AM In reply to

    Re: Red Line 35

    Hi,

    "Stuck" is the word!  To open up the RL35 remove the two plastic screws that anchor the straps, lift up the straps and slide them off the case (now is a good time to superglue the ends back together if the ends have parted), and then carefully lift off the fret - it is fixed on with several pieces of double-sided sticky tape (a long piece in each corner, two short pieces in the middle). The rest of the screws are then visible, along with the drivers (some screws are hidden under the edge of the woofer!)

    The woofer on mine (I just opened it up now to make sure I didn't tell you rubbish) has a rubber surround - no foam rot to worry about. (Type 6515, serial no 04992432.) Be careful with the frets, the frame is only plastic and doesn't look like its built for strength.

    Cheers,

    Steve

     

  • 06-05-2007 3:52 PM In reply to

    Re: Red Line 35

    Thanx

    It's very scary putting so much force when pulling of the fret. I've found that forcing you fingertips in the "Redline", pushing the fret away with your fingernails, works perfect.This way you feel how much pressure you apply and avoid overshooting and breaking the frame.

    And they look perfect inside even the filling and the electronics.
    RL35, Type 6515, Serial: 04900812

    I red in the RL60 forum that changing the electronic is recommended.
    Wat about that for this type or others or at all?

    ***As an aside, while you have the speakers in bits, it is worth considering replacing the electrolytic capacitors in the crossover circuits, as the originals will probably have dried out by now, reducing the treble response.***By Stevem

    Thanx again
    The Doctor
  • 06-05-2007 4:36 PM In reply to

    Re: Red Line 35

    The capacitors are very cheap so replacing them makes sense. Although it is of no help to you, the other RL speaker manuals are on site and have the values for the components on.
  • 06-05-2007 4:43 PM In reply to

    • Dillen
    • Top 10 Contributor
    • Joined on 02-14-2007
    • Copenhagen / Denmark
    • Posts 5,008
    • Founder

    Re: Red Line 35

    After taking off the front grills, as Steve suggests, you need to dismount one (or maybe both) of the speaker drivers to gain access to all the screws holding the front baffle.
    I never noticed any foam rot in the RL35's but do check the crossovers.
    Especially the solders at the spade connectors tend to develop cracks.
    I usually put a bit of wire in to reinforce the connections, after all this is a quite vibrating environment.

    Capacitors, worth replacing while in there. You can't tell from the looks if they're still OK. A kit is readily available, containing good quality (100V !) components but you may also be able to find some at your local dealer, remember they are bipolar.

    Martin

  • 06-05-2007 4:55 PM In reply to

    Re: Red Line 35

    Glad to hear all went well, and as expected. There's a good thread on capacitors in the Workbench forum, too.

    Cheers,

    Steve

     

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