Before doing anything more on the volume/tone control section I switched back to the right side and removed the glass cover to the displays.  It removed similar to the switch panel...it lifted and slid out from cover.

With the display section glass panel removed and the Beomaster 6000 lid again tilted up like a car hood, you can see several black plastic tabs on the inside (back of the lid) that hold the secondary light panel cover in place.  Those all need to be loosened so the inner, plastic cover can be removed.

Removal of the inner plastic display cover gets me to the top part of the 02 Module.

Only the blank aluminum panel remains on the Beomaster cover now.  To remove it I removed the two holding screws under the front edge of the BM6000 (from underneath the unit).  Removing these two screws would allow the panel to come off.

The whole top side of the 03 Module can now be seen.  Note I shot this pic with the display inner plastic cover still in place.

Getting closer to the 02 and 03 modules where I can work on them.  I decided to remove the 04 Module (FM Tuning) since it just unscrews and unplugs from the top cover and 03 module.  The 04 Module doesn't have any components to recap or change but it will be convenient to have it out of the way.

Here is the 04 module removed

If all I had to do was recap the 03 module I could probably do it right now.  However, I also need to do the 02 module and change IC8 on the 02 module.  In addition, I need to change out the belt on the volume motor.  This picture shows what is exposed now.  I can see the 02 and 03 module fronts and backs. The 02 board gives me a problem because the IC8 component is inside a large metal box soldered to the board.  So I will have to remove the 02 board I think to work on that.  There is a pulley assembly that connects between the 02 board and the 03 board to work the volume display.  The string that runs the volume display needs to come off the pulley that is attached to the 03 board - both to allow the 02 and 03 boards to be separated and to allow the new volume control rubber pulley to be installed.

I decided to loosen the motor and pulley assembly that is attached to the 03 module.  After doing this I don't think I really needed to do that.  In the last frame of this picture you can see a spring attaching the volume pulley string to the pulley.  That needs to be released and removed so the motor belt can be changed so there is enough give in the spring to do that without loosening the motor and pulley assembly (from 03).

 The first frame shows the original motor belt.  The second frame shows the new belt in place.  You can see that it slid over the display pulley with the string removed.  The last frame shows it put back together. 

Of course I now have to remove the string from the pulley again so that I can remove the 02 and 03 modules for recapping.  But I wanted to see that I could re-attach the volume pulley without any trouble so it was worth doing and photographing.

To remove the 02 and 03 modules from the frame I released the volume pulley string from its pulley (again).  There is a tab on the frame that prevents the 03 module from sliding out of its attachment slots.  I carefully pressed the 03 board over that tab stop as I moved the 03 board to the right (when looking at it from the inside).  The came right out.  For the 02 module, there is a screw providing the stop.  Remove the screw and the 02 module slides to the left...then out.

Finally.  I can get to IC8 and all of the electrolytic capacitors on 02 and 03 that have to be replaced.  Once those are done I should be in the re-assemble mode and on the way to getting this nice receiver operating again.  Got to remember to do the idle voltage and DC offset adjustments at the end.  That will all have to wait until tomorrow though.  Note: The metal box cover popped right off.  It wasn't obvious to me that it worked like that.

Periodic chime in to say, "Dude!" 

Outstanding work, and someone is following along.

Come on mate (sorry, dude) finish up your Beocord first!

I'm afraid the BC5000 has to be put on hold for a bit.  I've got to get one of my M70's sorted out first.  I've got distortion in a tweeter that has to be investigated.  Pulled the S45-2's out of the bedroom and into the main system for now, and I must say, it's a rather different sound.  Still quite pleasing, just different.

Gotta love the S45-2's

I decided to start with the 02 Module.  First the replacement of the IC8 U264B component.  To un-solder this 8-pin IC the metal cover on the trace side of the 02 Module has to be lifted off.  The metal covers are just friction fitted to the frame so the should come off with some coaxing.  No need to bend anything.  This picture shows the IC8 from the component side and trace side of the board before I removed it.

Note: The electrolytic cap to the left of it in the picture (C2 - 220uF) needs replacing too.

Here are a couple of pics of IC8 and C2 replaced on the 02 Module.  The IC8 component I took out is shown on the anti-static sponge (just to hold it in the picture).  I decided to install an 8-pin IC socket for the IC8 component.  I had one and I figured it would make it easier to replace if it fails again.

On the trace side of the 02 Module there is one medium size axial electrolytic capacitor - C49, 1000uF that has to be replaced.  The old one measured 1440uF on my capacitance ESR meter.  The new one measured 994uF.  In the picture the old on is in the top frame, the new one on the bottom frame.

Here is the finished 02 Module also showing the final recap for that board, the C65, 47uF capacitor.

Move that transistor as far away from that little IC as possible, by bending the legs - whatever it takes!

Another thing I do is to strip the motor and gearbox assembly- it sounds extreme, but I have had a couple of motors that were completely seized up, maybe due to harsh conditions or lack of use though (Yes I know, I like pulling motors apart hehe but they are getting old now!). Doesn't seem to harm to give them a good clean and relube, and doesn't really take long!

That trimmer in the processor module might be potential trouble in the future but setting up is probably one of the most sensitive things I have ever had to do lol!

Down to the last twelve electrolytic caps to replace - all on the 03 Module.

The 03 Module recapped and re-installed to the chassis.  The 03 board does not attach to the chassis with any screws.  It has slots in the board that fit into tabs on the chassis.  The picture shows the tab that locks the 03 board to the chassis - preventing it from sliding.  That is the tab on 03 removal that the board has to be moved away from (to allow it to slide out).

With the recap and selected component replacements done I reattached boards to the chassis and reconnected all of the connector plugs.  I first applied power through the variac and dim bulb tester just to be safe.  I heard the relay click as I dialed the voltage to 120VAC.  The bulb stayed dim in the dim bulb tester so that was good.  No smoke or fire.  Not even a hint of burning smell.  But...a set back never the less.  The only thing that lit up on the front panel were the segments for "P".  None of the control buttons did anything.  The volume control motor doesn't respond.  I turned power off and checked all of the connectors again.  I don't see any missed or any loose.  Still no luck so I removed the control button panel and opened the front so I could look at the 02 Module.  Nothing jumps out at me visually on the board.  I'll have to start tracing power on the unit.  As my very first picture of this thread shows - before starting work the unit powered up and the lights all worked.  So it has to be something I did while working on it.  Here is a picture of the current state of the receiver.

It is always a heart stopping moment when this happens. Don't worry yet though...

Could be that pesky potentionmeter in the bottom right hand corner of the processor board pictured above. This controls an overally complex reset circuit. Check the voltage on the reset pin (39) of the processor and make sure it is high (+5v).

You've done such a wonderful work so far!

Have you come across this?

http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/p/36815/305137.aspx

This is in line with what Olly says.

You could always send Martin an email I guess.