Just got an old Beogram 3000, model 5228. Looks nice, but doesn't work at all (well, motor seems to spin or at least sounds like it but nothing else).

Digged in, the envelope with schematics was still inside - but someone had tampered with the machine: cam-lifting wheel was missing!

But the nice part: the cam-wheel and some smaller bits and pieces were inside the Beogram in a small plastic bag! So, a previous "repairman" had tried to fix something, taken some pieces out and couldn't make it - but luckily left all the parts there for the next guy!

Now, I know where the cam-wheel goes but the little pieces are more difficult - and the pictures on the service manual are not very detailed. There seems to be a pin (axle ?) and a spring ?

Please, can someone take a detailed picture inside a BG3000 (maybe 1202 or similar will do as well ?) so I can put the pieces in place ?

-jari

Locking pin (120) goes through the platter hub axle to hold the gear wheel (119) fitted to the axle.
The C-clip holds the whole thing in place, that is when the sequence wheel, the lift/lower bar etc.
has all been fitted the clip goes on the protruding stub at the center of the sequence wheel.
The large piece of curved wire; Could it be (172) or (174) at the tonearm base ?
Or (129) on the top of the chassis near the friction plate (red arrow) ?

This is a Beogram 1102 so quite different from the 3000, but I believe it's basically the same mech. functions.

Martin

Thanks, Martin! That was a big help: the locking pin (120) it is, and the wire spring looks like to be from tonearm base (174)!

Now I'll just try to fit all these pieces back...

-jari

A follow-up question (a bit ashamed to ask, but...):

Which side up the cam-wheel should be ? I thought it should be the side with a lot of grooves up, i.e. down the axle (when the BG is upside down in front of You); but I cannot position it deep enough to fit the c-clip. Should it be the other way round (i.e. the side with the metal and plastic parts, see the picture in my first mail, down the axl) ?

-jari

Side with metal and plastic parts upwards.
Grooves downwards. (As seen normally).
Make sure to mate all levers and arms.

Martin

Finally got some time to fit the cam-wheel properly - and I think I got it right! Thanks, Martin!

But another problem shows up now that the mechanism itself works (i.e tonearms moves and lowers ok etc.): the motor doesn't seem have enough torque to turn the platter. Could it be just old hardened grease on the motor ? When I move the idler wheel a bit away from the motor it spins freely and with nice speed, but when I let the belt squeeze fully the idler wheel to motor spindle it just grinds to halt.

Is that a common problem with these motors and can it be mended or do I need another motor (from a donor player) ?

Most motors of that type can be reparied.
It's a matter of cleaning and relubricating the bronze bearings etc.
Being a one-phase AC motor of the "short-circuit" type (anchor appears massive), it has practically no
torque at low speeds, let alone at startup so is greatly depending on low bearing friction.

Martin