Hello everyone,

Well my B&O quest goes on, and I've just bought a non-functional Beogram CD 5500. I've now got the best ones, haven't I, CDX and CD 5500!

I will report on their differences once I have fixed the 5500...

Truth is, there is no power at all. What should I look into? I don't know this model at all, but I guess some of you have some valuable advice to share before I test or dismantle anything... I have already repaired Philips CD players, but this looks a bit different (output op-amps??).

Thanks.

If nothing works/lights up at all, check the power supply section first. Check the caps and voltage regulators on board 5 to get started. What have you checked out so far?

I once got a CD5500 with the same problem, no power. I opened it and immediately saw two big diodes on the board that had bad solderings, they had almost come off! Resoldered, and the thing worked like new.

Thanks, I'll keep in touch.

What do you think of its sound quality then?

Also check the solderings of the connectors for the powersupply on the decoder-PCB and the powersupply-PCB. These can also be bad!

Hello!

It turns out TF1 is open circuit.

Can this be taken out and cleaned or changed? Or installing a 160mA fuse maybe?

I believe it is a thermal fuse because there aren't any proper fuses on the secondary side (just some fusible resistors). First and foremost I would be interested in why it failed - at least check all rectifiers for shorts before powering up. There's a small chance of a failed transformer as well, I guess...

Generally thermal fuses are one-shot so you'll need to replace it. It is probably fine to troubleshoot with a conventional fuse, but I would't put the deck in regular duty until a new thermal fuse is in place.

Yes it is a 130 degrees thermal fuse. Can it be easily extracted?

I will definitely check on the first rectifier diodes and the following capacitor (my guess).

I think the transformer is okay, but 130 degrees is a lot!

The windings resistance look fine but you will never see the lower layers!

chartz:

Yes it is a 130 degrees thermal fuse. Can it be easily extracted?

Wish I knew - never had this problem myself, so I haven't paid attention to where it is actually located. It has a separate part number in the service manual, so I think it is supposed to be replaceable... Sometimes they are just pushed into a recess in the transformer body.

Right then. I replaced the 240V strap with a fuse holder, shorted the thermo fuse and the Beogram lives again, producing music and being stable. BUT the tray doesn't work. The heating was due to a shorted cap (C3).

Some progress...

Busted!

The 12V zener (D5) had given up the ghost. It is used to provide the LM324 (tray functions) +DC.

The player now works perfectly! 

By the way, is it normal that the magnetic puck is never properly centered on the CDM?

And isn't the CompactDisc logo supposed to light up?

The puck has wobbled more or less on all I've seen under the lid. It's final placement seems just random at every load.

No, I've never seen that logo light up! Cool idea, but against B&O simplicity I think...

Now proudly showing off in the system's rack... The odd one out is?? 

Oh, and by the way, it does sound GREAT!

And NO the Beomaster 6000 is not, will never be for sale, no matter how you beg.

 

By the way, is the "clack" noise normal when the tray opens (just after you press the button)?

It's the mech hitting the bottom plate!

Which model Nak is that?

What loudspeakers are you using?

It's a CR-4. The speakers are mint MC120-2 with original stands.

chartz:

By the way, is the "clack" noise normal when the tray opens (just after you press the button)?

It's the mech hitting the bottom plate!

More or less in all I've seen, at least when closing. But, the tray travel has some rubber bumpers you can barely notice in the explosion diagram. You might not find a trace of them left now! I never bothered to think of replacements, though...

EDIT: part# 9016. Dunno how much it contributes to the noise.

Anyway, yet another cap problem! This one had become a resistor!

It's amazing - I now have some experience in B&O - how those electrolytics cause the majority of failures! I now buy very cheap, and non-functional but the equipment HAS to be nice to look at!