I opted for an electrolytic replacement of the old tantalums. If I get my hands on another one of these I would probably go for a like kind for like kind restoration.

I hope it all works out.

This old thing.

My Beogram 4002 Series 5511. I have owned it for more than 20 years. It briefly played years ago and soon after, started malfunctioning with platter speed erratic and other troubles.

this beautiful turntable has been frustrating me for decades and about 10 years ago, I replaced the original 4000uf capacitor with another rated at 4700uf which cured the platter speed problem briefly. Thereafter, the equipment just became a beautiful ornament in my lounge at home.

I am no electronics technician but two weeks ago, I decided to take another look at the problems I have.

I posted details of this journey in the "Vintage" section and hope someone can please assist.

To all members: I am new here, I live in Cape Town and chances are probably zero that one of the local electronics workshops will be able to cure my 4002, so I will have to try and fix things myself.

Thanks to the owners of this special site. I have read a bit of B&O's history which is absolutely fascinating.

By the way, how does one post jpeg images (from my computer) here?

Regards

dauphine

I posted my reply in vintage products, and we love pics, and you will get help here, but start your thread in Beogram where it belongs.

That way I think you will get more answers, we all love repair threads and your description is very interesting, help will arrive.

We are all interested in everything B&O but some of us specialize in Vintage, some of us in newer items, and some are very interested in Beogram, I myself is Vintage.

I actually visited Cape Town a couple of times in the past, beautiful city and sorroundings, the ocean was cold as my drinks, the sharks very lively.

Hi Soren

Thaks for your kind attention. Thanks for the compliments paid to my city and I'm glad to read you enjoyed yourself while here

I will go to your post in a moment.

Best regards

dauphine

There are other Afrikaner's here on Beoworld. Perhaps one of them will pick up on these threads and may be able to offer some assistance.

Ben in particular comes to mind. You are not alone down there.

I am on a break from the Beocrack for at least the remainder of this month and maybe next month as well. I am currently working on nothing.

I thought you were quiet Eugene!

dauphine:

My Beogram 4002 Series 5511. I have owned it for more than 20 years. It briefly played years ago and soon after, started malfunctioning with platter speed erratic and other troubles.

this beautiful turntable has been frustrating me for decades and about 10 years ago, I replaced the original 4000uf capacitor with another rated at 4700uf which cured the platter speed problem briefly. Thereafter, the equipment just became a beautiful ornament in my lounge at home.

I am no electronics technician but two weeks ago, I decided to take another look at the problems I have.

I posted details of this journey in the "Vintage" section and hope someone can please assist.

To all members: I am new here, I live in Cape Town and chances are probably zero that one of the local electronics workshops will be able to cure my 4002, so I will have to try and fix things myself.

Thanks to the owners of this special site. I have read a bit of B&O's history which is absolutely fascinating.

By the way, how does one post jpeg images (from my computer) here?

Regards

dauphine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Dauphine

Nice to see a fellow South African on Beoworld. Apart from the B&O agents in Cape Town, Montgomery Custom Audiovisual (27 waterkant Street, CT) there is also Albertronics 021 - 7629031 who repair B&O. There is one more person in CT who does repairs but I would have to find out. I am in Durban and it is a lot harder to find a repairer. Hope you get some postive feedback from these contacts.

Ben

Hello Ben

It is very nice to hear from you too[:)

I actually had a discussion about an unrelated matter with Mr Montgomery from B&O Cape Town just a few days before Easter and before I started working on the 4002.

The telephone number you kindly supplied with the 021 dialling code indicates Cape Town's southern suburbs where I am also located so assistance with this job could well be on my doorstep.

I am a member of an engineering society (not that I am one) and have been given some assistance with the motor repair by one of the members there - especially with what to replace the burned varistors inside the motor.

Although the motor now again runs quietly and starts instantly if given 3.4V dc with my powersupply, I am not yet sure if it will turn the platter to the correct speed. This will have to be determined after I repair the overheating board.

I will take pics of both sides of the board area which concerns me and upload them a bit later at the other post.

I envy you of being in Durban as winter has really arrived here in Cape Town now.

Best regards and many, many thanks to you and all at Beoworld. I would never have imagined getting all these kind replies and recommendations on how to fix the problems.

dauphine

This weekend was one of the best I had since long. Specially the weather made me do some refurbushing work on my 3rd Beovox 2500 pair of speakers. The cubes were offcourse damaged on the corners and had some dents. I disassembled both speakerunits and tried to remove the pole from the cube. Unfortanetely I broke one of the poles so I had to look for a replacement. I took a 8mm aluminium tube which I bought on Ebay with a 2mm wall thicknes. Had to make a thread at one side and a oval hole on the other side. Some pictures to show you what I did during this weekend outside in my (airconditioned) shed.

Another work of art Leslie. Great craftsmanship has can never be truly valued.

Nice job Leslie, renovate, repair, reconditon, save them, thats what we like and do.

Thanks! You should have noticed that both bases have a brass color. Why?

I tried to polish (sanding?) the chrome surface but that was not a succes, more a disaster

A mix of chrome and brass appears so I had to finish it with the brass color instead.

My next "project" will be a Beomaster 2000 type 2801 and a complete unit Beosystem 5500 (dull grey, scratched etc.) which I wanna change into white with stainless steel mirror finished panels). Wish I had more knowledge with the electronic part (BM2000) so I could replace the capacitors as well, but I can't take that risk because it's working now.

Chrome plating is done electrolytically on polished brass or copper and can be microscopically thin. You should never use any abrasives on it - but you probably know that by know The copper under it is another plating stage in case the object itself is something else, like steel.

Anyway, they can be replated and it probably wouldn't cost too much for such small items. Although I think brand new chrome would probably look annoyingly bright on old speakers. The harder part is finding an establishment that still does it, as the whole process is quite toxic and therefore not too fashionable any more (inside EU anyway). Looking from here, I think the nearest shops doing car bumper sized objects are in Estonia or Latvia...

Autoglym's Metal Polish works pretty well for chrome and similar surfaces. Prepare to wear out your fingertips. How do I know...

There was still a chroming plating facitily not far from me in Derbyshire when I last checked, my grandfather had a load of old Meccano nickle plated by them but they offered all sorts of treatments.

BTW printed newspaper on its own works great for polishing chrome!

@Leslie nice job on the restoration!

Nothing happening on my bench while waiting for a big order, first time something went wrong with ordering which the company are looking into right now (I hope!). My new order has spent the weekend traveling from Texas US through France to Stanstead and is now stuck in Manchester a couple of miles down the road from me! Probably be there for a few days now too

tournedos:

Chrome plating is done electrolytically on polished brass or copper and can be microscopically thin. You should never use any abrasives on it - but you probably know that by know The copper under it is another plating stage in case the object itself is something else, like steel.

Anyway, they can be replated and it probably wouldn't cost too much for such small items. Although I think brand new chrome would probably look annoyingly bright on old speakers. The harder part is finding an establishment that still does it, as the whole process is quite toxic and therefore not too fashionable any more (inside EU anyway). Looking from here, I think the nearest shops doing car bumper sized objects are in Estonia or Latvia...

Autoglym's Metal Polish works pretty well for chrome and similar surfaces. Prepare to wear out your fingertips. How do I know...

Thanks for the info Mika.

As promised pictures of my refurbished BM2000 from which the wooden frame was completely damaged.

As said before I'm not an electronic technician and for that reason I need help from the experts.

Two things that does not work with the BM2000. One of the preset potmeters??? has broken partially on the plastic side.

Can this be still be ordered or is there an alternative?

Other thing is that one blac/white striped wire came loose and I cannot find where it has been connected to.

Not sure if that's the reason, but I cannot search for any FM frequencies with  the big round dial anymore.

I can hear an FM station but the dial does not do anything. It does work for the LW MW though!

Some pictures to see where this black/white wire is located (seen from the front at the right lower side underneath the preset switches/potmeters panel. One side is still connected going to a tin can, the other side came loose...

The black/white lead is not going to the FM preset module, I'm almost sure.
Try to see if there is somewhere else it can go.

New preset potentiometers cannot be found but I can find a good used one.

Martin

Look at the SM Leslie, it clearly shows the black / white wire is connected to the black wire on the preset board.

I am sure Martin would be able to sort something out regarding your broken preset. For now I would swap it for least used.

Dear Ollie,

What do you mean by "SM"? The wire that you mentioned is connected to the preset board (tin can). I already know that , but it's the other end that has come loose

Sorry by SM I mean Service Manual when I say the preset board I mean the board that is visible with the transistor on the rear and lots of wires. The black wire between the green and white / grey wires. The other end goes into the front end does it not?

Thanks Ollie, you reckon the black/white wire was connected with the black wire on the preset board?

Looks like it if I take a close look at one of the pictures.

Can you give me the page number of the SM please where I can find the connection?

Would be great, thanks

Almost all my presets were stuck on my BM 2000. Two had damaged dial wheels. I cleaned them and then relubricated using lithium and then had to superglue the cracked dials back in place. All are working now.

Hi Eugene,

That's great! My presets were also stucked and I managed to bring them back to life.

The broken preset I cannot fix. Everytime when I turn the wheel at a certain position it will stop. Any idea about the white/black wire and where to look in the SM?

Look at the picture of the board print in the manual and you will see the wire colours are specified. Black and black / white. Unfortunately no wire colours on the front end PCB but I bet if you offer that solder lump up to the pad it will match!

Nice work you guys are doing here. If I may offer a tip about finding where loose wires go without a schematic.

My own rule: If you find a loose wire, do not disturb the wires near the spot where the loose wire could go. Use a 10X loupe and you will often clearly see the place where it has broken loose.

dauphine/andre