You did all that with a standard vice, pillar & hacksaw? Wow I am even more impressed!

Step1:

You did all that with a standard vice, pillar & hacksaw? Wow I am even more impressed!

You forgot the files, the most important hand tool for a metal worker

Eugene:

Maybe I should hire you to make me a set of Redline 60 floor stands Soren Mexico.

As the floor stands consist of base plate, floor stand plate and some 3 or 4 pieces for the legs it gets complicated, I can make a simpler floor stand, my idea is a modified base plate screwed on to the simplified stand (legs), let me give it thought for a couple of days and tell me if you are serius

recieved some window tint today so decided to proceed with retinting my Beomaster 6000 display glass. For those of you who have ever tried to clean the inside of this glass will realise just how delicate the original film is!!!

Even so, the film tends to shrink and crack with age, although this appears to be less obvious than cleaning damage!

After replacing the top piece...

Now both replaced...

I like the colour, it is slightly darker than original and gives that little bit more contrast, losing some of the plastic detailing behind the glass. However, I need to hone my skills a bit more as it is very difficult ensuring there is no dust trapped between film and glass also I am not sure how b&o originally merged the film with the black paint border, but it was very well done and very difficult to repeat without leaving a very faint visible line :(

*edit

Having looked again it is not where the film meets the paint (I think it is screenprint) but the opposide side where the film should go under the plastic frame, said frame is not aligned to the printed window correctly (they are all the same) so there is a bit of film that can not been squeejeed. I will make sure it stops at the overhang next time and see how that looks!

My latest fix. Got the Beocord all fixed up. New belts caps the drawer has been lubed and adjusted. Damn things works great. Sounds nice too.

Sadly in this day of MP3 and iPods there really isnt much use for it. I only have about 8 or 9 tapes left.

Probably will never really use this thing. Seems almost like a waste of my time and money to have fixed her all up.

But it does round out the set.

 I have one of those cassette ot iPod adapters normally sold for car audio. So i plugged it in and it works. Works pretty good in fact.

I wonder how long the belts and tape mechanism will last being used in this fashion.

Eugene:

But it does round out the set.

 

That is the rule, afterall.  One must round out the set.  I wish I were in your shoes.  I just want a Beomaster for my M70s.

Been busy today, in fact been busy quite a bit lately!

Anyway, first job to clean up a Beogram 5000. The following shot shows a very good reason not to use those automatic groove cleaning whatsamejigs...

Those black marks on the rim took about an hour to scrub! Tried servisol foam cleanser, didn't touch it! Then washing up water, again no change tried isolpropyl. getting a bit better! The best option was to use my thumb and lots of elbow grease combined with friction and a little spittle Got some lovely cuts on my thumb but at least most of it is off! i wonder if someone sprayed something on their records before playing because this stuff was deep in the metal! Anyone got any better tips??

Also did an led mod to the dustcover lamp. Need to compare it with another 5000 I have downstairs to see which I like the best!

Next! Chris (Medogsfat) very kindly gave me 2 x Beocord 3300's (require belts, not sure what to do atm) and a 4500 over the weekend. The Beocord 4500 presented an interesting fault. It seemed to work in all respects except when playing there was no sound and the UV meter was max++. Traced it to the 8vref derived via tr31 from the dolby chip was missing. Turns out C417, an electro 470uf RDE was short circuit!

This altered the reference to the VU meter and effectivly shorted output to ground.  Again, need to decide whether to restore this tapedeck. Such a shame it didn't have Dolby C I wouldn't think twice! What a technological let down of an otherwise nice tapedeck by B&O!

BTW anyone know how to turn the tape when in play mode or is this a remote feature?

Oh and I picked up a faulty Samsung WS32Z409T HD CRT(!!!) tv over the weekend. Always wanted to get my hand on one of these to check it out. Shame this technology was not available to B&O 10 years ago just look how slim the tube is!

That is a 32" widescreen CRT!

s/c LOPTx and LOPTr means this one will have to wait a while before I get to see what the picture is capable of!

That's all for now folks!

The Beogram 5000 I picked up in January had the exact same black ring. I started out with Windex (ISP base). worked but was kind of slow so then I switched to Cean-Off. and off it came.

I like the "clean-off" it works like a super version of Fantastik. Spray on let set and the gunk just lift up and then you wipe off. Grease, grime, oxydation, cigarette smoke gone. Good stuff with 1/2 the elbow grease.

I like the car cassette to iPod adapter so much that I have oredered 2 more off eBay @ 3.75 USD apiece. A great way to give those Beocord a new purpose. The perfect answer for a guy with a growing collection of restored Beocords but only about 8 tapes to play on them  - me.

Here is my latest restoration project. Got her running Sunday, but now it is somewhat dissassembled while the cosmetics are restored, the tuning string fixed, and new lamps installed.

But what to do about all those old tants ?

A -nothing

B - replace with new tants

C - replace with electrolytics

D - a mix of both

Eugene,

Do you really want a project? I mean a PROJECT ;-)

Here's my BM3400, almost the same circuits as your BM2000 - most of the PCB's are the same. But that's where the similarities stop.

Completely restored, actually remanufactured to be more exact.

All electrolytic capacitors - naturally. But also all carbon resistors replaced with Vishay Dale metal foil. The ceramics in the tone circuits with Murata MLCC CoG ceramics. Schottkey bridge rectifiers. Wow, you will not believe your ears. 

Not hours of work, but weeks - a once in a lifetime project.

Pride of place in my outfit.

Menahem

Is clean-off a foam based spray Eugene? Sounds something similar to my foam cleanser but I will check that out thanks. This really was nasty stuff never come across anything like it before - had more in common with a glue residue!

Regarding the capacitors Eugene. Personally I would be inclined to replace like for like or in the case of tants, check and possibly leave alone! but why not replace one whole channel? You could do an experiment and report up on any differences you find?

If you do please get someone else to conduct the experiment such that the results cannot be weighted!

@yachadm

I like the extra thin 10000uf electrolytic what is the diameter and where did you get it? Narrowest I can find is 16mm and that is 10V!

Step1:

@yachadm

I like the extra thin 10000uf electrolytic what is the diameter and where did you get it? Narrowest I can find is 16mm and that is 10V!

If you mean 1000 uf here is one

Ah thanks Soren I read 10,000uf for some reason

Step1:

Those black marks on the rim took about an hour to scrub! Tried servisol foam cleanser, didn't touch it! Then washing up water, again no change tried isolpropyl. getting a bit better! The best option was to use my thumb and lots of elbow grease combined with friction and a little spittle Got some lovely cuts on my thumb but at least most of it is off! i wonder if someone sprayed something on their records before playing because this stuff was deep in the metal! Anyone got any better tips??

Try Morrisons own brand multi surface wipes Olly. They seem to shift most stubborn stains on alu' panels - I would not try them on platters though as I'm not sure if they would affect the surface lacquer - this stuff seems to be very sensitive to most cleaners.

Glad the 4500 wasn't too much of a challenge.

Chris.

Hi Chris we got some of them in the kitchen :) - will try that thanks! The 4500 was a bit of a sod for a while as I could not find the source of the 8v ref for ages, then it jumped out of the diagram and all was pretty quick after that! Must admit a full recap would have sorted (Yes I know Menahem ) but I would personally not bother with something this young. There is one big RDE in the psu that I might replace but all others are Nichicon or Elna so they should be fine for some time I would think! Decided I will get some belts off Martin when I have ploughed through the current mountain :)

Thanks for the platter tip! I seems pretty clean as it is!

Got the cd tray sorted in my cd50 last night but there is other odd behavour to investigate so I have put that to one side for now. It is a beast that is going to be one big giant headache I think!

I will work on my Beomaster 5000 tonight I think!

Step1:

There is one big RDE in the psu

BTW, it's "ROE" for Roederstein

Part of Vishay nowadays (as so much else..).

Polishing metal after a thourough soaking in some soap and staining wood right now. quite a bit of tarnish showed after the soaking about 40 years worth. testing with some Brasso lifted a significant portion off.

I am kind of leaning towards replacing the tants with electrolytics but I will sit on my decision for another day or so.

@ Menahem - i altready replaced the 4 "no load current" resistors with metal film. more or less to make measuring  easier after I replaced both of the current trimmers.

Got so much last weekend I built a second tier shelf system! Put my led modified 5000 next to the original with bulb...

Looks ok to me! I noticed the lamp is decidedly red in the user manual so I might try that too, what do you all think?

*edit - If anyone concerned about the shelf don't worry the worktop had a slight bend in to start with and the 17mm (28mm) end of the lens distorted things more than they look! There is also a central support now too!

I like the led, how to description please, and dont worry about the worktop just stack some of your speakers under it

Hi Soren it is rough atm but I will design a neater example and post the details! I have just got something to do over next couple days more details to come

I recently bought two Master Control Panel 6500s from eBay. One had seized volume control, other was dirtier. I combined the best of the two and fixed the volume control (cleaned and re-lubed) and now I have one that works and looks good, and one that works but doesn't look that good. All of the hinges were broken, I put the best two to the "better MCP" and they hold the lid closed almost right, one have to be gentle!

One interesting found was that both MCP had electrolytics like this:

I replaced all caps in both MCPs just incase. Still a bit strange for a battery-operated remote controller that is usually powered for about 7 seconds at the time? And those caps are +105'C rated!

I had never taken apart the volume controls before. It's doesn't look that special from the outside but it's actually quite a big thing, a huge ball-bearing. The wiring and the circuit board in the middle are for the STATUS -button.

On the side is the pattern for the up/down optical sensor. It's just a piece of paper/tape glued there. It was loose and very dirty so I evetually took it off and re-glued.

Now I have one nice-looking and working MCP6500, and one not-that-good-looking but working. Here is the good-one:

With my BM7000 I can notice only one difference between a MCP5500 and a 6500; the number of green bars in the volume display. The MCP6500 seems to show more bars with lower volumes, 5500 needed more rising of volume per bar.

lausvi:

One had seized volume control, other was dirtier. I combined the best of the two and fixed the volume control (cleaned and re-lubed) and now I have one that works and looks good

With what did you grease-oil the  bearing, on mine I had mix some oil and grease because the return spring was half broken and very week and with only grease it never made the return to middle pos. with the mix I got it just right.

Mine is all white, but yours looks better, good job

Søren Mexico:

With what did you grease-oil the  bearing, on mine I had mix some oil and grease because the return spring was half broken and very week and with only grease it never made the return to middle pos. with the mix I got it just right.

I doesn't actually look as mint as the photo shows, the aluminium has small dents but it's very nice (for being sold as a spares only).

The bearing itself was moving very stiffly and after adding some contact cleaner (lubing type) it's working Ok. I actually like it a bit stiff rather than free-turning (no accidental full-volume!).

The three-arm -thing that turns the switch has small soft pads at the end of every arm and they might have collected a lot of dust causing extra friction. 

Doing a bit of veneer work, this Beomaster 3000 was very nice but it had a nasty chip at a rear corner:

Cut out and cleanup :

Match a piece of veneer :

Glue in, flatten and polish.
Not perfect but will do at a rear corner :

Martin

Very nice Martin :)