That's good to hear :) Yes I was very careful when centering but it can be done on the diaphram - You can see an edge that the coil sticks too but get this dead right, make sure the coil isn't mis-shapen. Hope the repairers do a good job for you!

I haven't heard anything from the shop about the phase links yet.  However, yesterday I spent time re-mounting the 8's and feel a lot better now.  I ended up cutting the tube like Jon suggested (I'm still curious how B&O mounted these originally without cutting the tube).  The metal brackets now extend a little into the tube and the rubber pieces are pressed firmly on the frame of the driver.  My only concern is since the tube was cut in 4 spots for the brackets, that it is no longer totally sealed.  I used hot glue and tried to fill the voids around the brackets to seal it the best I could.  When the drivers need to be refoamed again in 15 years or so, hopefully it won't be a huge pain to get the glue off.  Would you be concerned about having a few tiny areas that aren't completely sealed off?

DKAudio:

Would you be concerned about having a few tiny areas that aren't completely sealed off?

Nope, not in this situation.

Jon

Another update...I replaced the European connectors with gold plated binding posts and ran new wire from those to the crossover (the original wire seemed very undersized).

Finally got a call from the repair shop and more bad news...One of the phase links had a bad voice coil (wasn't blown but the wires were coming undone off the former).  The other one he re-assembled but it buzzes.

Where do I go from here?  Is there a replacement driver from partsexpress that would fit and sound similar?

That's bad luck. Not sure why one of the units buzzes he should be able to say why.. I would suggest the coil former is not aligned or miss-shapen.

Anyway you need some identical replacments you might want to keep an eye on ebay etc.. put a wanted here and talk to Dillen (Martin).

Just out of interest get the old ones back and take some pictures. I would not consider it impossible to rewind the coil and I am sure the 'buzzing' could be tracked down and rectified...

There's nothing like the real thing.

Normally, I have a nice selection of 1970's-80's drivers and I did look for
these midranges but there has been a general rush on speaker parts recently
and I don't seem to have any of these at present..
However, inventory changes almost daily and I'm sure that something will
suddenly show up.
It's a SEAS H226 and the same driver is found in Beovox S80, S120, M150, and
of course MS150 if that's any help.

I'll keep looking - as always.

Martin

This will sound very similar:

http://www.europe-audio.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=7774

As will the ".2" version midrange drivers, which the above Scan Speaks are almost clones of. Martin has one for sale in the driver classifieds section, and I have another I would sell to you, although I'm a bit leary to, after the midbass driver you bought from me got messed up in shipping...

The ones in the first link are what I would use if my dome mids died.

Jon

Found two !
One has a tiny repair to the outer (plastic) surround, looks a decent repair.
Both tested and working.
PM me if you're interested.

Martin

I was able to fix the one that was "buzzing".  The guy at the repair shop had to make little jumpers because the voice coil magnet wire broke off the terminals when he was disassembling.  Turns out that one side wasn't soldered.  Luckily I use to solder for a full time job for 4 years so that was an easy fix.  I got one cabinet completely done!

I still do need one good phase link dome and coil.  Below is the pic of the frayed coil, looks to be too far past fixing.  I will PM Martin about the ones he has.

Thanks!

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

DK where are you? I would like to look at that as a little project so if you want to send it my way - I am prepared to pay postage..

Olly.

I'm in the US, Minnesota. I figured I mine as well try to fix the coil myself since I really have nothing to lose.  So, I placed the voice coil wires back in place the best I could and used Helmsman Spar Urethane (think of a thicker, heavier duty poly) on the windings.  It is currently drying and the coil is definitely not like new but it is decent I guess.  What kind of glue should I use to attach the former to the poly dome?  Would this work?...

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=340-076

 If this doesn't work I will purchase one of the drivers from Martin.

Great news, the speakers are complete and operational!  After I re-set the windings and glued the former to the dome I tested it and it sounded great.  Finally, after about 11 years of having these they are complete.  They sound great and I am very pleased (although after 11 years of build up they fall a little shy of my expectations, not much though).  I am having a friend who has a TIG welder make stands for me out of square aluminum tubing that should look very cose to the originals as well.  I will post pics once those are complete and installed.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

Good job loved this thread.

Check this one, I recommend steel, your speakers are on the heavy side, and aluminium has to be treated, painted or polished and laquered.

http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/t/35659.aspx

DKAudio:

Great news, the speakers are complete and operational!  After I re-set the windings and glued the former to the dome I tested it and it sounded great.  Finally, after about 11 years of having these they are complete.  They sound great and I am very pleased (although after 11 years of build up they fall a little shy of my expectations, not much though).  I am having a friend who has a TIG welder make stands for me out of square aluminum tubing that should look very cose to the originals as well.  I will post pics once those are complete and installed.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

I have been following this thread with interest as I am one of those who urged you to continue with these. I have to admit to feeling a few pangs of guilt for doing so when I read some of the obstacles you've encountered. You've been very unfotunate but I doff my hat to you sir for your persistance.

Stands will make a noticable difference as the bass ports are underneath.

Chris.

That's awesome! Nothing like some good 'ol DIY work! I'm happy that you've finally completed these. Remember that the driver suspensions need to break-in, and that the bass is much stronger and improved when placed on stands. Let me know if you need any dimensions for the stands, and I'll be happy to take some measurements!

Jon

I kind of knew you would do it in the end :) Well done!!!

Now get those speakers on stands ASAP as has been mentioned above hopfully they will meet your expectations?!

Let us know how things go...

Olly.

Jon:

Let me know if you need any dimensions for the stands, and I'll be happy to take some measurements!

Jon

This is actually a good point raised by Jon.

I sold some with stands & the buyer attempted to lower them onto a bespoke arrangement & the sound suffered as a consequence. I didn't hear them myself (they went overseas) so cannot really comment much further as to how big a difference it made. They were placed back on the original stands pretty pronto by all accounts.

Chris.

I don't have the ports blocked, I made temporary "feet" out of 4X4 blocks that the enclosures are just sitting on.  They are standing about 4" off the floor.  I found some pics of the original stands and just guessed at the dimensions, I think they are really close though.  I gave the dimensions to my friend who is welding them for me, I believe I have the back piece at 93°.  As far as aluminum not being strong enough...all the corners are mitered and welded on all 4 seams, it is also a thick walled square tubing, I am sure it will be plenty strong.  Here is one of the bases...

Well, just remember too, that the speakers MUST be tilted back in order to achieve their full potential. The whole "transient perfect" design depends on the acoustic centers of the drivers being lined up with regard to your ear. If your speakers are perfectly upright and only 4" off the floor, you'll be getting a very irregular response because of the poor vertical polar response of this design.

You need to get them further off the floor, and tilted back quite a bit to sound right. Do you have the user's manual for the MS's? It explains how to optimize their placement. Also, remember that B&O did not compensate for the baffle step in response, so they need to be up against the wall for reinforcement in the lower frequencies.

Jon

Thanks for the tips.

No, I don't have the manual but would love one.  I think once the stands are complete they will be about 8" off the floor (I hope that is high enough, I tried to guess the dimensions just by looking at pictures of the original stands).  I will also push the speakers back against my wall, I have them about 10" from it currently.  How far back should these tilt?  Farther than 93°?  Should they be toed in at all or parallel to the back wall?  Should you be sitting in an equilateral triangle with them or farther back than that?

93 degrees is OK, and 7.5" of the floor. so 8" will do. Your speaker is 34 cm deep, IMO your foot should be 36 cm deep to kompensate for inclinacion. I see Very good welding on the frame its going to be very nice

The original stands are actually mild steel box section & painted silver (all of these S/M stands are the same). I'm sure aluminium will do the job though if it is of a decent gauge.

Chris.

I just found some original stands that are near me.  However, they are called S-75 stands, are these the same ones used in the MS150's?

Thanks

The S75 only weights 11 Kg and the MS 150, 30 Kg so its probably not the same, the correct stand for MS 150 is 6017.

The upright for S75 is welded to the foot frame, for MS 150 its fixed with a screw.