So the clips mount on the black trim ring and then the sonatube slides over it?  Does the sonatube fit all the way down the black trim ring or only down to the metal clips?  Again, I don't see how it could go all the way down where I belive it should be...the black trim ring over hangs the sonatube by maybe 1/32", not really enough material for the clips to push down on.

I don't think it's supposed to slide all the way down over the trim ring. There should be a very shallow ridge along the circumference where it stops.

If nothing else, just notch four small parts of the sonotube out where they are hitting the clips. That should be fine. Don't forget that B&O taped the sides of the sonotube from the factory as well.

Can't wait to hear your opinion on these after some listening time!

Jon

DKAudio:

So the clips mount on the black trim ring and then the sonatube slides over it?

Yes, that should work just fine.

Sorry I didn't answer your question the first time. Just got home from work and I'm beat!

Jon

Got both cabinets complete, still not really confident about the 8's mounting, powered them up and bad news...the big dome "phase-link units" aren't working in either cabinet.  I really hope it is something simple, I'm already in $250, I know they're hooked up to the crossover.  When I get a chance I can ohm out the voice coils, they should be 8 ohms I assume?  Could it also be bad caps in the crossover or not likely?

Oh man! That sucks. Especially after all the work you've put into them!

Set your multimeter to measure the DC resistance of the driver. Should be around 5 or 6 ohms. Or, just hook the mids directly to your receiver at a nice, low volume and play some music.

If you get sound then obviously the problem lies in the wiring or crossover. If you have a nicer multimeter with more functions, you can desolder the capacitors and measure their capacitance. As old as they are, it could very well be a/some bad cap/s.

I have heard that the domes sometimes have a propensity for toasting voice coils, but I've always found them to be pretty sturdy with the given crossover.

Jon

I'm nervous/pissed...I have a good Fluke DMM that has capacitance.  I hope it is in the X-over!

I checked one and it is fine!  Got a clean reading of 6.8 ohms, huge relief, I’m sure the other one is fine too.  I also checked the crossover’s traces for continuity and all is good.  At this point I wonder if I should just purchase the capacitor kit and replace all the capacitors.  I would have to unsolder them from the circuit to check capacitance anyways.  I’m sure the resistors and inductors are fine (don’t have an inductance meter).  I could check them to make sure they aren’t open though.

 

Martin, how much is the capacitor kit?

While I'm doing this, is there also a benefit to replacing the wire to the 8's and 10's and from the back of the speaker to the crossover input?  They look pretty thin 18AWG or so.

I'm also going to re-look at the 8's mounting, still very uncomfortable.  I understand what you are saying Jon but there just is barely any material for the clips to push down on.

 

I had fun doing all of this:

S45-2 project:

• Replaced caps in crossover
• Replaced terminal cup - new cup has 5-way binding posts
• Replaced all wiring
• Replaced damping material in cabinet, but left damping material as-is in the midrance subenclosure
  
• Replaced grill cloth

S40 project

• Replaced foam surrounds on woofers
• Replaced caps in crossover
• Replaced terminal cup - new cup has 5-way binding posts
• Replaced all wiring
• Replaced damping material in cabinet

In both pairs of speakers, the wire from the terminal cups to the crossovers was maybe 16 gauge, maybe 18.  From crossovers to drivers, much smaller, perhaps 22 or even 24 gauge.  The wire appeared to be, however, a high quality silver.  Definitely good stuff.  Was rewiring necessary?  Probably not.  Was replacing the terminal cups or damping material necessary?  Probably not.  But that's how I roll. 

Anyway, I'm getting to my point.  It's not a nominal undertaking, rewiring.  Unless you're replacing the terminal cup, I think you should think twice about rewiring completely, especially a four way system.  I don't envy your recapping task having seen the crossover network you get to play with.

Keep it coming. this is better than any soap opera, I'm facinated.

Martin, you there?

DKAudio:

I checked one and it is fine!  Got a clean reading of 6.8 ohms, huge relief, I’m sure the other one is fine too.  I also checked the crossover’s traces for continuity and all is good.  At this point I wonder if I should just purchase the capacitor kit and replace all the capacitors.  I would have to unsolder them from the circuit to check capacitance anyways.  I’m sure the resistors and inductors are fine (don’t have an inductance meter).  I could check them to make sure they aren’t open though.

Don't assume anything, check the components. Just about the only way a component fault in the crossover would silence a driver would be an open circuit, and capacitors very rarely do that. A burned resistor is more likely.

EDIT: just checked the schematic, and as far as I can see the only fault that would completely silence the bigger midrange (and only that) would be an open circuit in L2, or just an old fashioned connection problem (cracked soldering or something).

I checked all traces on the circuit board.  I will look for cold solder joints and will check the resistors and inductors.

It's odd that both cabinets are doing it.

Thanks

Well, it is bad phase link drivers. I hooked up a full range driver to that output on the crossover and it worked. I then tried playing the phase link units really quiet by themselves and it just makes a repetitive static type noise. They ohm out right at 7 ohms though, I don't get it, a blown voice coil wouldn't ohm out the correct resistance. So, how hard are these to get and how much more money do I have to spend? I am super bummed...

Probably burned coils then.
They can still conduct current but will have expanded physically due to heat and then start to bind.
Check those crossovers again.

Please clarify if your speakers are Beovox MS150 or MS150.2
(Title says one thing, your first post another).
The midrange drivers are not identical.

Martin

They are the MS150's.  The dome is clear, not black like the 150.2's had.

hmm is it possible the coils have become detached? I had this problem with my s120's but they did produce sound, just distorted... They are easy to take apart but very delicate - don't think you have a lot to lose!

They are easy to disassemble?  Does the magnet bolt onto the frame or something?  If they are easy to take apart and it is just a loose voice coil then they should be able to be fixed.  Do you have a basic procedure to disassemble?

Did a similar repair to my pair of MS150 (refoaming) and thought they are done now.

When reassambling I was not sure if the tube needs to be screwed down with the metal pieces or if the tube just sits loose on the midrange unit so I went for the second option.

Could somebody clarify this please..

Hi yes if I remember they have 3 plastic clips (very delicate) and you must remove from magnet assembly very carefully! I am sure Martin could possibly give you guidance...

I have got some photos which I will happily post BUT on Friday my 1 month old Samsung hard drive completely stopped working and I cannot access the PATA drives on my main machine. until a new drive arrives I am stuck. First time with Samsung and I am NOT a happy customer :(

Been gone for the week on vacation!

Sorry to hear about the mids... Hopefully, you can find some good ones. Or save up and get those reconed too, I guess.

It sucks that the previous owners didn't take good care of these fine speakers! Now you're having to pay for it.

Jon

Step1, if you get your new HDD soon, pics would be appreciated.

Jon, I am bummed, I made sure to ohm out the phase link and super tweeter before I spent the money on the 8's and 10's and they all read good.  The coils must be good but detached like Step1 mentioned.  I sure hope they are easy to disassemble.

If you decide to take the dome mids apart, it's a pretty easy and self-evident thing. There's 3 plastic tabs that click into place behind the metal rim of the driver frame. They're attached to the diaphragm/voice coil assembly. Just pop back those three tabs and the whole diaphragm/voice coil assembly lifts right off.

There's a small difference in sound between the earlier, clear domes, and the later, fabric domes. With the given crossover network in the MS150, the later, fabric domes sound ever-so-slightly more laid-back and pleasing. The difference is slight, and I mean slight. If you can find a good set of those, they'll work too, IMO. Won't be original, but it won't be way off either.

Jon

Awesome, sounds easy.  More bad news...the water heater in my house went out today.  Spent $600 so far and haven't even started putting it in yet...ouch!

It may be a few days before I can try taking those apart, I'm swamped.

Thanks for the tips, I'll keep you posted.

Kind of good news as fingers crossed I might have new drive at end of week but then I have to re-install windows and get everything up and running once more... Might just beat you with those photos :)

Good news everyone.  Finally got a chance to take those phase links apart and the coil was sitting by itself when I took the dome off.  Unfortunately the magnet wires broke off at the terminal but that shouldn't be a huge deal.  I only opened one of them and will bring them to the speaker repair place to see if they can fix them.  It would be tough getting that coil centered in the gap since they won't be able to use shims or anything like woofers can use.  The odd thing is that I saw no evidence of any glue ever being used, no residue or anything. 

I will keep everyone posted, getting excited again even though this means more money :)