I have a BM1600 type 2113 (1970).
It sounds lovely and the cabinet is near mint, but all sliders are crackly.
Problem is, I can't get in the bloomin' thing!
I have undone the four screws on the bottom, and one in each corner on the back. I was expecting it to slide out like a BM900, but it won't budge.  Is there adhesive as well as screws?
Any help much appreciated.

Andy T.

I have found the service manual for this one - it looks as though there are two screws on the front panel at the top. I am out tonight but I will scan the manual tomorrow for you - looks like a good one.

Cheers Peter. I appreciate that.
No screws visible, but we know what B&O are like for hidden things.
The similar looking BM1400 doesn't seem to have any manuals either.  Do you have those too?

Andy T.

Andy,

Don't force it!

You've got 2 more hidden screws.

Remove the tuning knob.

Gently pry out the dialglass at the BOTTOM left and right corners, taking much care not to scratch it (I broke one plastic holder - don't you make the same mistake!).

Behind the dialglass, right at the top, you'll see 3 screws - only 2 attach the wooden panel to the chassis, but you can take off all three.

Then you pull the chassis forward and out of the wooden cabinet.

Next - I had a b*tch cleaning the sliding potentiometers, because they are completely sealed.

I had to completely remove them from the BM1600, then disassemble them, clean the inside, and reassemble them.

Photograph the wiring positions on each pot, before you desolder them.

It's not a job I'd relish doing again!

Best of luck

Menahem

Good on ya Menahem!  I should have guessed you'd know the answer.
I wouldn't have forced it anyway, knowing what B&O are like for hiding screws.
I guess if you found it a daunting job, it will be worse for me, a thicko!  A bit like teaching a goldfish how to fix a carbuerettor.
I will pull it apart anyway as it needs a damn good clean.
You had some great pictures of yours, but they're gone since the server upgrade. I'll send a message to Keith and see if he can retrieve them.
Take care my friend.

Andy T.

Manual now on. I do have the 1400 one but am out playing tennis now so will probably start scanning it tonight. The 1600 is a nice manual!

You are a gentleman. thanks!

BM1400 service manual now on as well.

Keith has restored your photo's Menahem (bless him)
Got inside my Beomaster and can see how awkward it is to get to the sliders, especially the balance one (the one that crackles most!)
Silly plastic cog directly behind the tuning knob is in five pieces, and I have three tubes of solidified superglue, so that's tomorrow's job.
Guess I'll just spray contact cleaner into the sliders or put up with the crackling!
Why oh why did I take the wretched tuning string off???
Menahem, did you have to modify anything, or add a resistor before you exchanged the bulbs with LEDs?

Andy,

Forget your "silly plastic cog" - I couldn't repair mine - it just broke again in a different place.

Its function WAS to provide weight to the tuning wheel.

So, what I did, was to get a couple of thick rubber washers, glue them together (vulcanizing glue) to make them even thicker, and then glue them onto the axle. The rubber washers' circumference contacts the tuning knob axle, and provides a heavy force-feedback when tuning - very nice simple substitute for the white cog.

I don't know how far you want to go in restoring it, but if you want to replace the wasted blue Philips axial capacitors, I have brand-new stock and can make you up a kit. These are very difficult to find on the open market, but I keep good current-production stock of these Vishay Philips axials.

Never buy NOS or any type of Old Stock of Electrolytic or Tantalum Capacitors - you'll just get into more problems when you install partially-or fully-dried-out capacitors in the circuit.

After you've replaced the capacitors, you'll need to measure the lighting voltage - it's AC, not DC, so you'll need a rectifier diode (a 1N4148 or 1N4002 is fine) to convert it to DC for an LED. Then if you let me know the DC voltage, I'll tell you what resistor you need. I can also let you have the warm-white LED's.

Here's a picture of the tuning wheel - if it can help you.

Menahem

Thanks Menahem, but my prowess with a soldering iron is prohibitive!
I have managed to replace bulbs with ones robbed from an already canibalised BM4000, thanks to Peter for providing both manuals.

Here is the plastic cog. You were right, it would have shattered again if I'd glued it together.
I used a piece of clear plastic tubing to make sure the shaft stayed in situ and can manage fine without the weighty feedback from that heavy flywheel.

Looking at the manual, I noticed that the Stereo bulb was 12v  30mA and the other two were 6v  30mA.
According to the BM4000 manual, both bulbs were available, so I robbed them from an old 4000.
The Stereo light was identical so straight forward swap.
Plugged in and checked if it worked.
Brilliant!

Bit fifferent with the 6v bulb.
I had to take it from the meter of the 4000, but it was a torpedo shape.

Never mind, I'll adapt the square socket on the luminous tuning marker.

Bit of cutting and shaving, and Voila!

Thanks for the tuning string photo' Menahem. After a lot of frustration, I got it on and working, but it was so tight, like the E string on a mandolin when you plucked it. Then I noticed the position of the spring on your picture over the top of the little knobby-thing and have sorted it. How it didn't snap, I'll never know!
Turning the tuning knob anticlockwise moves the marker to the right, so I guess I have wrapped the cord wrong way.
Guess what? It's stopping like that!!!
Bit of Danish oil on the case, and job done!

Thanks Peter and Menahem.

P.S.
It only cost me a tenner off eBay!

Hey Andy,

I have a question for you, for a change!

Here goes:

On my BM1600, I have an inconsistency on the actual Decoder PCB 8002083 vs the Service Manual's diagrams.

B&O couldn't help me with the inconsistency.

On the attached pic, you can see I have circled in yellow, 1 resistor and 2 transistors.

Could you have a look on your actual PCB, and tell me what you have for these 3 components?

Thanks

Menahem

I will get onto it as soon as I get a chance my friend.

Oh Menahem!  You've no idea how difficult this was for me to do.
Partly because my camera has auto focus that doesn't like close ups, partly because I have no technical expertise, and partly because my decoder is still in place, and if I unsolder it, I might as well chuck it in the skip, as I would never get it together again!

Anyway, here is the resistor, starting from the bottom (near the circuit board)  Green, Blue, Red, Silver...

...and the two transistors. I took about 20 photo's but couldn't get it focussed properly. I can confirm that the black one is indeed BC147B, but under that it seems to say DE0 whereas yours says D90.
I couldn't see any writing on the circular metal one, but it looks just like yours!  My schematics suggest it should be BC119
Forgive my ignorance

Andy T.

Glad I was of help. Can I put it back together now?

Wish I'd known that before!!  Just took it out, it took about 6 seconds!  What a numpty!

The circular one is BC119, just like it says in the schematics.