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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012
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This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and 1st March February 2012

 

Latest post 01-12-2009 4:40 AM by Dillen. 5 replies.
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  • 01-10-2009 5:51 PM

    Beogram 8000 Capacitor Replacement Problem

    Hello all,

    I just did a capacitor replacement from Dillen on my Beogram 8000 turntable. When I reassemble the turntable and plugged it in the LEDs on the operating panel lit up but not displaying like it should have. The turntable platter turned but the buttons did not work correctly on the panel. I took the table apart and compared the capacitor replacement on the main PCB that I had done with a non-working parts PCB board I have. I found that the capacitor marked C24 (2200uf 16v) although correctly installed according to how the polarity was marked on the back of the board for positive and negative, was different than than the way the capacitor was installed on my parts board. I replaced the capacitor and switched the polarity and reassembled the table but now I show no power on the LEDs on the operating panel and the platter does not turn. I have gone over the replacement diagram supplied witht he kit and don't see where I might have made an error. If I had reversed the polarity as indicated on a capacitor does that account for my problem and it has affected other parts or is there something else going on here? Any thoughts?

     

    Regards,

     

    John

  • 01-11-2009 4:41 AM In reply to

    • Dillen
    • Top 10 Contributor
    • Joined on 02-14-2007
    • Copenhagen / Denmark
    • Posts 5,008
    • Founder

    Re: Beogram 8000 Capacitor Replacement Problem

    A capacitor mounted with wrong polarity can destroy the capacitor but rarely anything else, though, depending on the state of the wrongly mounted cap, the fuse may blow.

    The board silk screening is often wrong. The best thing is to mount the new caps the same way as the old were.

    Check for cracked solders in the power supply and rectifier areas, at the edge connectors
    and where the ribbon cable from the processor goe to the main board.
    Did you replace ALL caps in the kit ? Did you introduce the new connection shown ?

    Martin

  • 01-11-2009 5:20 PM In reply to

    Re: Beogram 8000 Capacitor Replacement Problem

    Hello Martin,

    Thanks for the reply. I will check all of the areas you indicated for cracked solders etc. I did replace all the capacitors in the kit you supplied and introduced the new connection as shown. Fuse looks good but I switched it out with a spare from the parts board I have. Sounds like I might have introduced a cracked solder joint based on your reply.

     

    John

  • 01-11-2009 5:55 PM In reply to

    • Dillen
    • Top 10 Contributor
    • Joined on 02-14-2007
    • Copenhagen / Denmark
    • Posts 5,008
    • Founder

    Re: Beogram 8000 Capacitor Replacement Problem

    There's a fuse inside the transformer too.

    The cap inside the processor housing; Check using an ohmmeter that there is a connection from its negative pin to the metal processor housing, if not introduce one. Also make sure that its positive pin doesn't short to anything apart from its actual mounting point.

    Martin

  • 01-12-2009 12:32 AM In reply to

    Re: Beogram 8000 Capacitor Replacement Problem

    Hello Martin,

     Regarding your suggestion to check the cap inside the processor housing. I am pretty sure you mean the one that I installed that is a 47uf and on the sheet you included for the installation is on the "CPU casing." A question about the resoldering of any old solder joints that might be cracked, should I remove the old solder and resolder or should I just reheat the old connection till it flows smooth again?

     

    Thanks again for the feedback.

     

    John

  • 01-12-2009 4:40 AM In reply to

    • Dillen
    • Top 10 Contributor
    • Joined on 02-14-2007
    • Copenhagen / Denmark
    • Posts 5,008
    • Founder

    Re: Beogram 8000 Capacitor Replacement Problem

    The easiest method - and the one that is less harmful to the board - is to heat up the solders and add a little fresh solder. This will normally work fine unless the two solder types are very different or the board has been exposed to water, high temperatures or has previously been seriously got-at solder-wise in which case the board must be completely cleaned first.

    Yes, that's the cap I am referring to. It's negative pin = the pin closest to the metal casing should have a connection to the housing. Normally it's done through the board tracks but I've seen many cases where this was not the case and a connection had to be introduced directly from the caps negative lead to the metal case.

    Martin

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