I have a Beolink 7000, it works fine, no problems with the two way communication or any other controls. But when it's not the charger, it keeps switching itself on and off. After using it, it switches itself off, two standby lights light up in the upper left and right corner. Then it switches itself on again. This just goes on and on. What could it be?

Sounds like it is getting a signal from somewhere. Try taking it into a room with no B&O in it (if you have one ) and see if it still does it.

I have tried it (found a room with no B&O Peter! ), but same story. The problem is actually literally described as a fault in section 2.7 of the trouble shooting chart in the service manual. Since the service manual only advices to replace either module 1 or 2 (which are no longer available), it is of not much help.

 I have replaced the self made battery pack in my Beolink 7000 with an official B&O one, but the problem is still there. When not in the charger, it keeps switching itself on and off. Maybe Beoworld member Die Bogener, can spread some light on the matter. He seems to be the beolink 7000 specialist.

Has anyone experienced the same problem and is there a solution?

Is there a dent right in the middle of the chrome plate? There is a piezo crystal sensor under this plate, you could disconnect the wire from it for testing. But do not solder on the sensor, solder only on the board... the piezo would go defect.

Hello Die Bogener!

If it is the sensor, wouldn't it be switching on and off, even when in the charger? It now only switches on and off when taken out of the charger.

Hmmm, then it cant be the sensor.

There are 2 switches on the backside at the lower end of the BL7000. These switches are responsible for the motor control. What happens, if you put it on a desk, will it move? And if you put it on the desk with a small distance that these switches are not activated? Will it switch off?

What voltage can you measure on the battery when it's operating? 6V?

The motor works like it should. The two pins on the back also work correctly, if you put it on a table, it moves up. When you take it from the table, it moves down. I just replaced the battery pack with a new one from B&O, thinking the battery pack might cause this problem, but even with the new pack it's the same. The problem is actually literally described as a fault in section 2.7 of the trouble shooting chart in the service manual. Since the service manual only advices to replace either module 1 or 2 (which are no longer available), it is of not much help.

I have been reading on the forum that more people have experienced this problem since I started this topic. Member ''Die Bogener'' suggested recently that replacing the big blue cap on the lower PCB board could solve the switching on/off problem. Has anybody tried this replacement and has it solved the problem?

Now I'm having this issue with my Beolink 7000 when not placed on the charger.

By the way, this was the Beolink where I put in the batteries the wrong way

A friend of mine replaced a fuse that was blown, now everything works fine (RDS as well) but the "switching on and off" issue remains...

Anybody?

I have had the same fault as posted in other threads... 

I have replaced the touch plate w/ a brand new one, as well as the battery pack. My intent was to replace the blue cap next -haven't yet!

@burantek, ahhh that was discouraging news for me, I was really hoping a new/semi-new touchplate would do the trick for my misbehaving Beolink 7000 (same problem, switching on and off outside the recharger). My last resort will have to be the infamous blue cap....

Regards

Jesper

Sweden

 

MoglesMac:

My last resort will have to be the infamous blue cap....

My fingers are crossed! You first!

Hehe thanx, seen your nice pictures in your other threads about BL7000, but I also think i might have additional problems with my two

missbehaving BL7000, also have some other smaller project in the "pipe" right now hehe but If i do anything I will report back even if i hit a brickwall :P.

Jesper 

Sweden

 

Member: Leslie and I have had a brief discussion re: the ON/OFF problem over here.

Sadly, the service manual supplies schematics for the base and not the remote -suggesting module replacement as the only solution. To followup on some comments made by Leslie that may offer more insight into the problem: The BL7000's that have the ON/OFF problem seem to work fine when in the charger. When removed, the ON/OFF appears. I am assuming at this point there must be something in the circuit between the battery and the board that is under/oversupplying voltage as compared to the base charger. Without the schematics, I am not sure what role the blue cap (PCB1-C13) plays in the circuit. Leslie had replaced the cap (had other issues as well) and it DID NOT resolve the ON/OFF problem.

burantek:

Leslie had replaced the cap (had other issues as well) and it DID NOT resolve the ON/OFF problem.

Jaff,

Sorry, some miscommunication. I have not replaced the blue cap because my Multimeter has a capacitor option which showed that the capacity was okay! However, maybe I should give it a try to replace it with a "brandnew" one. Who knows, will let you know!!!

Leslie:

Sorry, some miscommunication. I have not replaced the blue cap because my Multimeter has a capacitor option which showed that the capacity was okay! However, maybe I should give it a try to replace it with a "brandnew" one. Who knows, will let you know!!!

You can't test them properly with a multimeter. The property that most often fails is not the capacitance, but ESR. You'll need a special instrument to measure that. Even if the capacitance value is still correct, the capacitor can be totally useless for its purpose if the ESR value has risen a lot from original, and that is what usually happens to aging electrolytic caps.

If this cap is a known troublemaker, don't waste too much time diagnosing it, just replace it

tournedos:

You can't test them properly with a multimeter. The property that most often fails is not the capacitance, but ESR. You'll need a special instrument to measure that. Even if the capacitance value is still correct, the capacitor can be totally useless for its purpose if the ESR value has risen a lot from original, and that is what usually happens to aging electrolytic caps.

That's (hopefully) good news Mika, thanks, maybe I'm lucky!

Now I have to look for a 680uF cap.

My apologies for any confusion regarding the CAP/FUSE... but it looks like we are back up to speed!

Looking FWD to favorable results!

Sorry guys, the cap 680uF replacement was no succes!

Have replaced all capacitors (11 pcs) but the on/off issue remains.

Gonna use that one for my LCS7000 wall charger 

Awww ok, I will prob also use one of my defect BL7000 in a similar way, but always in a tablecharger hehe.

Thanx for testing it out for me and i will in a near future try to change the piezo since I have found a swedish provider to the right size :D.

Again, thanx

 

Jesper

 

@Leslie, sorry for bugging you again but saw now that you had a LCS7000 (very nice indeed) and I personally have a floorstand for my BL7000 and I think that you and I have same powersupply. I hope that maybe you have the wallplate to mount the powersupply on a wall. From the powersupply it seems too be a round thing with two "hook".

I hope maybe you have photo of it, if you have it that is, so i can try make my own :D

Cheers

Jesper

 

Jesper, I wish I had one. Funny enough I never installed the LCS7000. It just sits in a box and still don't have any purpose for it. That's because of the Xtra speaker I got with the LCS7000. ALthough I got many advises how to connect this kit, I still haven't got the chance to install it.

Leslie:

Sorry guys, the cap 680uF replacement was no succes!

Have replaced all capacitors (11 pcs) but the on/off issue remains.

Gonna use that one for my LCS7000 wall charger

It is amazing that so many of these have this same common fault!

Well, I guess I'll be relegated to using it in the charger as well!

Need to find a LCS -that would be best!