[quote user="TheMajor"]I agree with you. I can't afford a B&O screen. They are mentally expensive in Japan. The cheapest is over a years salary but then I'm a teacher. I got a decent 46" panasonic for half months wages. I plan on getting a beolab 11 then 6000s then a beosystem 2 but hopefully 3. A beosystem 3 is so nice too

[quote user="TripEnglish"] Second hand B&O sets of a recent vintage will still deliver a better overall experience than a lot of what you get out there. You could probably meet your budget with an incredible set. I could not personally purchase a non-B&O TV at this point having lived with them for so many years. My wife feels the same

I'm in the market for a new TV, but not from B&O, just too expensive. I use B&O for all the sound throughout the house, and my Beo4 with a Lintronic box to control everything (Cable/DVR, DVD, Apple TV), so the controls should be simple and map well to the Beo4. I have a Sony 42" rear-LCD projection set now which is "OK" but

[quote user="Dave Moulton"] The brilliance of the BeoLab 3 lies in exending the low frequency response of the woofer through using passive side radiators with a different resonance than the driven front-firing woofer, thereby teasing almost an extra octave out of a tiny design. I wish I'd thought of that! [/quote] Dave, thanks for you

[quote user="murcieme"] I honestly don't know too much about how well engineered the B&O car stereo's are, but I'd assume they put a fair bit of research into it before slapping their name in any auto maker's product. This is easily an area where a company could 'sell-out' so to speak. [/quote] My understanding

[quote user="Dave Moulton"] I've never auditioned the BL11, and have no opinion of it. However, it will not solve the problem I discussed. 2 drivers (as a general rule) do not have enough bandwidth to cover the 10 octaves of the audio spectrum (say, 20 Hz. to 20,000 Hz.). A good, well-implemented driver might cover 2.5 octaves in a reasonable

My initial exposure to B&O was in college, I saw a Beomaster 1900 and S35 (or S45) "phase link" speakers. The touch controls on the unit were seemingly magic; this was one of the first consumer products to leverage digital controls and display for something that used to be a knob. Being a student, I couldn't afford any of this but

[quote user="GuyHui "] Hi spthomas , I actually use a BL2 combined with a set of BL8000's (front) and BL4000's (rear). The result is very good, the subwoofer can skake my entire living room and I am not kidding. BL2 produces great powerfull bass that are ideal for movies and music too. BTW, if you have a small room, I would get the

Another aspect I was wondering- I vaguely recall when the beolab 2 came out, it had a switch for what type of speaker was connected, i.e. Beolab 1 or 6000, but 8000 was not a choice. It seemed the purpose was to select where the cross-over occurs. Since the Beolab 1's have been out of production for awhile, what choices are on that switch now, and

To fill out the bottom end for Beolab 8000s, for music use, I'm thinking the newer Beolab 11 is the right sub, over the older Beolab 2. Anyone disagree with that statement?