Indeed.Part No 8480233.You'll need to order them via your local "Beosuit",and they are not cheap! Expect to pay about £20 each.There are other drivers that will physically fit,but they won't sound as good! Regards, Nick

VX7000 would be my choice,the mech in the '8000 is a "tonka toy" by comparison.Even better is the VX5000,although many of the features are not available when used with current product.A late model one would be best,or one that has been serviced,particularly with attention to capacitor "issues" etc.The '7000 is twin speed

The output pins on the Line socket of the BV2800 are Pin 3=Left out,Pin 5=Right out,and pin 2 is ground You should be able to use a standard 5 pin din cable to connect to aux in on the BC2.The data is carried via pin 6,but as there will be no communication between the products,this won't matter.You will need to select aux mode manually on the BC2

The ME and LE range of tv's were fitted with a Philips chassis,so are somewhat different from the designed"in house" B&O models. Very reliable from memory,and good performers too! Anyone with Philips tv expertise should be able to help if you don't have a B&O service agent locally

Neat! Necessity being the mother of invention etc.? I remember that the bulb siting was critical,but assume it was because a light dependent resistor was used as sensor.Later,more sensitive led/photo transistor arrangements were used for this type of servo.You can't very often improve on B&O design,but it would be interesting to try a modern

RS Components (http//rswww.com)do a 28volt,24mA wire ended bulb,that I imagine would do the job.Part No.587-686.You need to position the lamp critically in order that the servo regulates correctly,ie:the arm should move approx once every turn of the turntable.

I suspect that you may need the bulb,rather than a led.The lamp light is reflected off the turntable onto a light dependent resistor,so sensitivity might be crucial?Apart from the arm drive system,there is also in place,a system to prevent the arm lowering onto an empty turntable and damaging the pu! Can Martin (Dillen) from this forum perhaps help

A few quick checks with a meter would track this down I think.I can't believe it's anything serious,but you will need an Engineer's help.You' are some distance from me (Midlands)but you must have someone more local?Have you tried the Dealer List? Nick

Check that there is continuity between P11,pin9 on the preamp panel,and the junction between 2C6 and 2C7.These are the two large capacitors that clip into the plastic moulding over the output stage.It should read zero ohms,as it's the ground return for the preamp.If not it may mean that the print is ruptured somewhere,due to flashover and could

It might be significant that you have had power interuptions.There may be damage to the pcb which explains why you have 20volt seemingly everywhere on the preamp panel? The preamp/control section has single ground return to the power supply.Connector P11,pin9 on the preamp panel should connect to connector P9,pin 6 on the power supply panel.P9,pin 6