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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012 READ ONLY FORUM
This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and
1st March February 2012
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G'day everyone, I know you all missed me so much, I did too. Unfortunately, I had a catastrophic multi-disk RAID crash (well, a multi-chip RAID controller failure would be more precise) and I've lost utterly everything - all my personal and business data since 1985, photos, scans, and much, much more. The worst news for me was that I also lost
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Wow. Thanks to everyone who found time to respond to this thread! To help clarify some very good points raised, here's a summary of the ideas I really want to cover in the guide: There will be pictures. Lots of pictures! So for newcomers who don't know an electrolytic capacitor from a constipated elephant, it should be very easy to identify
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Wow. Sounds like this is an interesting issue for some people. While I can't really help with cap replacement in terms of millinery (sorry davefarr ), I can hopefully do something for electronic 'hat' replacement. I'll post an update in a day or two (I have to find a way to post images as well as write some text). Please bear with me
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Andrew, the problem you describe could have been caused by a number of issues. But if the problem you experienced did disappear after turning off the unit, then the simple test will be to see if the humming reappears. If it does, then one of the possibilities could be component changes over time. I'm not sure how old the Beosystem 7000 is... if
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As many owners know, the average life of electrolytic and tantalum capacitors in the 60's and 70's was very low, a decade or two at most. Since many (all?) B&O products from that era used those types of capacitors, most owners of this vintage equipment will be noticing some strange things, like lots of hum on the outputs, or bass/treble
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Well, I have some good news and some good news on the sparking (and capacitor) front(s). I finally solved the sparking issue. When I first retrieved the 1600, the aluminium cover panel (the brushed plate surrounding the tape turntables) had the two brass locating pins pulled out of their retaining holes. I repaired them by taking a little material from
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Thanks casdave, that's exactly what's happened. The tants (especially on the preamp boards) have long since turned into, er, dynamic resistors. I changed the two in the preamps, and the hum and crosstalk disappeared from the preamps. I've just got around to getting a big bag of good quality, low esr, high temp electros, and that's when
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G'day all, I'm in the process of repairing my old friend the Beocord 1600, and I've discovered more than a few leaky capacitors (tants and electros), so I went through the 1600 TRM kindly scanned by Peter, and got a list of all the caps so I can do a complete swapout. Much to my surprise, there is no mention of any ceramic or MKT/poly caps
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Martin and Dave, Thank you for the suggestions! I've had to rewire the AC input to the recorder (and boy, I don't ever want to have to do that again - it's an absolute nightmare getting the 240V leads to the switch assembly, and the old insulation of the original wiring just crumbled ), and I'm 100% sure that the phase and orientation
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G'day all, I've been doing a lot of restorative work on my Beocord 1600, and I've noticed with a shock (literally!) that there appears to be a voltage potential between the black head shield assembly and the brushed aluminium backplate - I've measured at least 2.7VAC between the plate (and of course the brass locating pins and the head
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