Rercapping my last 2400 that has not had an overhaul. This one has obviously had some service done in the past. New bridge and what looks like a smattering of caps here and there. Mostly low value that were put in to replace some original tants I think.

Then again maybe not

Not how I would do it - but it works. I might be smart just to leave this be as it is.

Recap and relamping complete. Playing classical on WOSU thru FM5 at low volume levels for the rest of the day. Nice clean sound. Controals all seems working well.

So far so good.

Right now I'm desoldering an incorrectly wired aux din-to-rca adapter.

Does anybody else have ADD like I do?!

Martin

Martin I think that belongs to the other thread - 'What the heck are you working on now!'

Some sort of motor with clutch and gear box?

That must be the lift motor and transmission for the BeoVision 4-103

Eugene

Nice diodes he used in there for the bridge BYV27-200. Very high-quality, very fast. It is part of the reason you've got good sound there.

Have you got a scope? Check the output from the 2 bridges there, and you'll see the difference in power quality ;-)

My first choice for bridge replacement is 11DQ10 (1.1Amp), or 31DQ10 (3.3Amp), depending on the current requirements.

Menahem

yachadm:

Eugene

Nice diodes he used in there for the bridge BYV27-200. Very high-quality, very fast. It is part of the reason you've got good sound there.

Have you got a scope? Check the output from the 2 bridges there, and you'll see the difference in power quality ;-)

My first choice for bridge replacement is 11DQ10 (1.1Amp), or 31DQ10 (3.3Amp), depending on the current requirements.

Menahem

That is why I left them in there.

Once it was all recapped and I was running low volume sound tests I quickly noticed the left channel heat sink was running much warmer than the right channel.  Test the voltage per the manual and adjusted the left channel trimmer down to 12 mv DC

Everthing is working peachy now.. I even cleaned up the remote and rplaced the two small caps in there as well.

Evan:

That must be the lift motor and transmission for the BeoVision 4-103

LOL B&O found some old 1960's stock in the back of the warehouse and are getting Martin to give it the once over before hand!

After having a good sort out of my project pile, I have the folowing left.

Pair of Beovox S80's - Refoam, recap & hopefully bring the woodwork back to life.

Another pair of Beovox S80's - Refoam, recap. These may get finished in white. As the cabinets are very badly damaged.

Beocord 2000 - New motor and belts.

Beogram CDX - recap

CX100's - Recover frets.

Pair of Type K speakers. - Full cabinet restoration.

Also just started some customized Beolink 1000's.

Craig

I have finally been able to continue my Beomaster 1700 repairs. I bought it from eBay for some 30 GBP but it was poorly packed and the top-glass was broken! [:'(] And the insides were full of miniature pieces of glass... The tuning sliders and tone controls were all slipping (or not moving at all!) and the two belts cut. Even the mains cable had to be replaced, the original was cut and continued with much thicker three-wire cable that was taped to the original... (The seller agreed to a partly refund so I paid about 5 GBP of the BM at the end). Electronically everything worked (and sounded pretty good) so clearly a restoration project coming on!

I got a new glass from Martin as well as new rubber clutch washers for the mechanism. After taking apart the whole switch-clutch-slider-mechanism and cleaning everything and replacing the washers it started to work. I was able to tape the tracktor-belts (using very thin tape on the underside of the belt) so it works but the joint doesn't look very good and causes slips so I'll have to think for something else.

At the moment I am re-capping it. Half of the boards done. The BM1700 is very nicely built. The top can be opened like a lid and there is a rod to keep it open. All boards can be removed easily since all cables have connectors.

So not quite done yet, but getting forward nicely.

Above: the bigger of the two clutch-rows. The thin black discs (between the white and grey things) are the washers.

Above: about to start re-capping. Left: tuner board, bottom-right: amp board, top-right: power supply board.

I am working on a BeoCenter 9000 at the moment and it is quite annoying. Not because I had to replace the processor to get it to work and all the other age-related small problems, but because the previous owner thought he could repair it. So a lot of screws are missing, other screws are in the wrong place, screws are even missing on parts that did not even have a defect, the plastic surroundings of the glass panels were glued to the chassis (yeah, like that will hold the glass panels in place......). What was this "technician" thinking? I know what I am thinking:

On the other hand, the BeoCenter is working again And most of the missing screws are replaced and the wrong screws are in the right place again. Now repair the glass panels and we have a nice BeoCenter 9000 again!

Blackrix:

So a lot of screws are missing, other screws are in the wrong place, screws are even missing on parts that did not even have a defect, the plastic surroundings of the glass panels were glued to the chassis (yeah, like that will hold the glass panels in place......). What was this "technician" thinking? I know what I am thinking:

 

Don't start me off about screws My pet hate is engineers, technicians or any professional person that relies on a screwdriver for a living who is not aware, or doesn't care that there are different types of screw, and an accompanying screw driver that matches that type!!! Nearly every vintage B&O you see which has had work usually has messed up screw heads (the pozi types) which have clearly been driven with the wrong type and / or size driver! There is just no excuse for not taking a minute to check the type of screw and use something appropriate to undo it!!!

I knew a Boiler eng. with 40+ years experience once and he was cursing with his pozi driver at not being able to undo the philips screws on a boiler without ruining the head, of course the screws were to blame lol! I handed him the correct size philips driver which made light work of the problem and it was then blamed on his old screwdriver that must have been worn out If they can't be bothered with little details like this then why are they in such a profession?

Missing screws are something else that annoys me, however on major work I am not surprised if the odd hole occasionally disappears and I end up with a screw left over lol! I do at least try to find that missing hole but sometimes it really has gone

Screw it, I've just finished the repair of a 5 tons printing m/c where "experts" had done their best to "addjust" and repair things that had nothing to do with the actual failure, missing screws, screws in wrong possition, wrong screws in wrong holes, a 4 hours normal service turned out to be a 35 hours repair. I love "experts"

"Screw" those "Experts".... I hope they don't also try to fix their own or someone else's car in the same way, and if they do, I hope I am never driving behind them!

Today I opened my BM 2400 again. it didn't sound like it should, nothing I could put my finger on, just "not right", Eugene gave me some good advice, and I did find a pair of bad solder points and one missed cap, and a piece of cable on the solder side that did not belong there, compared to Eugene good photos, tomorrow of to Steren to get parts and then try again.

Beomaster 6000 225x Where to start with this beast! Replaced PSU cap on 15v line (dead short) and rectifier on the 6.5v line tests ok out of circuit but under load takes out the fuse! Left with Intermittent display top digits and dp leaving this till last I think.. I am hoping just a dry or crack and not the displays...

Most troublsome problem is a constant hiss on the right hand channel. Definately from the amp - Can't trace with heat or freezer spray and can't see anything obvious on the scope, although noise is barely visible from mid to latter stages of the amplifier this one is going to give me a headache as there is no obvious source!!!

Oh and some of the pop buttons are worn to the extent that the panel had been push in slightly due to increasingly heavy finger pushes... I might post up about this problem actually!

Anyone got any tips for tracing noise generating components without the teadium of swapping components? Apart from these problems it is a truly lovely example, and when I have sorted everything out it will get a complete recap!

Oh and I purchased a faulty Beocom 2500 off ebay. Never realised how service unfriendly these phones could be!!! Repaired the handset cable and in the process of experimenting with making some rubber conductive glue to repair the flexi keypad so fingers crossed with this one!

Step1:

Anyone got any tips for tracing noise generating components without the teadium of swapping components?

Try to isolate it, disconnecting amp stages starting from the beginning. You might also try swapping circuits between channels where possible.

It could also be some high frequency oscillation somewhere that gets mixed down to audible hiss. If it's more like a buzz instead of a nice analogue hiss, check that all the shields and grounds of the digital sections are in place.

Regarding the screws, I know what you all mean.

And B&O didn't use screws which are easy to hold, even with a magnetic screwdriver....

BUT...

I have a better idea - the B&O screws (actually threaded bolts), are the exact same type which are used in millions of computers to secure the CD/DVD drives. Ask any local computer tech, if you can relieve him of some of his stock - I have 1000's of them.

Firstly they're Philips so they're much easier to manoeuvre, and secondly they have wide heads, so they spread the tension over a wider area. And if you need black, just put black nail polish over.

Menahem

Screws (threaded fasteners)... anyone ever worked on an old Series Landy?

Imperial, metric, and Whitworth!

Thanks Mika, not as big a headache as I thought - TR102 (part of the diff-amp early section) was the little blighter! No more hiss now :) I love your idea of isolating various parts of the amp but tbh I find B&O amps very temperamental and very easily unbalanced - usually resulting in smoke to all but the more experienced techs! I would appreciate your thoughts on this particular area!

Anyway on with the beophone, I was at the locksmiths today getting some graphite powder to make my own conductive glue for the keypad. mixed it all up with various glues and even tried just isopropyl and not getting very satisfactory results.. There's a fiver down the drain I suspect the particle sizes are just too big and there is too much insulative space between particles or something. It is good enough to restore my troublesome sony remote buttons though and will try on my worn beolink 1000 next... I curse the day I didn't buy that remote rubber restorer from CPC when it was on clearance! Also turned my nose up at drive cord when that was offered cheap at maplins... What's that about hindsight?

Just ordered some pre-made electro-glue from the little battery store so fingers crossed this stuff will be considerably better!

yachadm:

I have a better idea - the B&O screws (actually threaded bolts), are the exact same type which are used in millions of computers to secure the CD/DVD drives

Good idea Menahem Always have short of these!

Spent Sunday afternoon ewplacing a faulty motor on my Beocrod 3300. Works much better now

Eugene:

Spent Sunday afternoon ewplacing a faulty motor on my Beocrod 3300. Works much better now

Is ewplacing similar to the action of replacing but with a lot of goo and mess?

yes sir - this time it wound up in the washing machine and not all over the carpet

Today I received a Beogram CD50 and a Beocord 5000.
They are a bit out of my favourite era (1969-75) but I wanted to be able to play CDs. I got the Beocord from the same seller for just SEK 100 (£9), so I couldn't resist it. The drawer design is actually quite cool.

The CD50 had a jammed disc drawer. I opened it up and as I had expected, it was the remnants of the rubber belt that jammed it. I got the rubber out and now the disc drawer moves freely. But I need a new belt.
I think I'll have a look at the Beocord in the meantime. It has a stuck cassette in it. Maybe a belt too?