I've been looking to get into the world of B&O for a long time now. Then I found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Bang-Olufsen-Master-Control-Panel-5000-RECEIVER_W0QQitemZ230381024847QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVintage_Electronics_R2?hash=item35a3c7764f&_trksid=p4999.c0.m14#ht_2706wt_1165

I only have two questions: Can I use non-B&O speakers until I can get my hands on some and will I need apaters to do that? Can I connect my mp3 player to this without some convoluted system of cables and boxes? 

Thanks so much, and i look forward to being a member!

Welcome to Beoworld ! 

Yes, you can connect any passive speaker you like.
The plugs you need are standard 2-pin DIN (mostly used in Europe), they
can almost always be found on Ebay.

Martin

versii:

Can I connect my mp3 player to this without some convoluted system of cables and boxes?

yes you can, you need cables like this e-bay iPod jack to B&O DIN or a iPod jack to RCAs as the 5000 supports both for certain inputs (sources)

(not my sales!)

Dillen:

Welcome to Beoworld ! 

Yes, you can connect any passive speaker you like.
The plugs you need are standard 2-pin DIN (mostly used in Europe), they
can almost always be found on Ebay.

Martin

Sweet! I found a different auction that includes connectors, and is cheaper. Great news!

So I finally got my Beosystem 5000, and its great! Except the front panel won't open unless you pul on it, a bit harder than I think should be waranted. I know it is supposed to just pop open too. I can't figure out how to search the forum, but what is the best way to take it apart to fix? I don't want to dive in and break anything!

Thanks!!

You shouldn't need to "PULL" -just press on top of the text "OPEN" and it should rotate into position... if not then you have an issue and we'll take care of you from there!

Welcome to BeoWorld!

I know it's supposed to just rotate out, my neighbor had one a few years ago. It doesnt 'fall' out. Just  clicks, nothing happens.

versii:

I know it's supposed to just rotate out, my neighbor had one a few years ago. It doesnt 'fall' out. Just  clicks, nothing happens.

Maybe there is dirt inside the gravity dampening mechanism ... the cover is "easy" to slide off so you can check inside ... do you want instructions ?

Instructions would be very helpful. I don;t want to break it!

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!

versii:

Instructions would be very helpful. I don;t want to break it!

Well, interestingly I took a spare Beomaster 5000, powered it on and checked that it's drawer mechanism worked and proceeded to do the following except I seem to have reproduced your symptom :-(

I disconnected the power and loosened the power cable from its exit slot.

As shown here.

I then unscrewed the two philips head screws on the rear of the unit (not underneath).

I then slide the lid back as far as it goes which is only a little (1/8th inch of so).

As shown here:

Do not do what I did ... which was to turn the unit upside down so two metal slugs that are on the other side from the two philips screws fall out.  They can actually be lifted up a little with two pens/pencils/toothpicks/whatever so that the lid lifts and slides off easily.

(I then turned the unit the right side up and the cover slides off all the way - well lifts and slides, the cover kind of latches into the heavy base plate on 4 positions on each of the two sides.)

Here are the screw & slug out. 

Here the other slug is in its position, you can also see the lid latch (the grey upside down T on the bottom left of the picture) and base point (indented upside down U on the bottom right of the picture) for the 8 places where the cover and base slide and latch together.

I reconnected the power.

I then powered the unit on and pressed OPEN to watch the motor (I thought it was gravity but there is an intricate pullet system) whirr and lower the drawer.

Here is the pulley assembly:

Here is the latch that interacts with the pulley assembly:

Here is where the pulley assembly connects to the inside shaft and the small motor with its flywheel fan (sorry the internals are out of focus and dark):

I then latched it back by pressing the fold down panel closed..

And the tried to unlatch it again by pressing OPEN.

And now my drawer doesn't open any more.

Seems I have reproduced your problem!

I disconnected the power and wrote this post.

I will now reassemble my (spare) unit and hope for the best :D

I suggest you wait until I verify the status of my reassembled unit ...

elephant:

I will now reassemble my (spare) unit and hope for the best :D

I suggest you wait until I verify the status of my reassembled unit ...

Well there is good news and bad news.

The good news is that my reassembled spare unit does not work.

That is "good" because it means we have reproduced the symptom and maybe the problem, and I can work on my spare, hopefully restore the function, document the process, and then you can repeat it if that is your problem.

The bad news is that I have a busy Sunday, but I will try to make some small progress, and maybe I will make more progress on Monday, and if not we may be stuck in this state until next weekend.

But all should not be lost for you, provided you MCP is working, you should be able to use your BM 5000 and listen to music.  Is that the case?

PS please remember this is a spare that I have not used for 3 years, and you have given me an incentive to organise my 5000 collection which is something I have been meaning to do for some 6 months!

I do have the MCP, and it does work. The door does open, but only if you pull it. Makes  a ghastly clicking sound when you do that too. Only did it twice, its staying open!

Thanks, and I'm glad I could get you to reorganize!

elephant:

I then unscrewed the two philips head screws on the rear of the unit (not underneath).

I then slide the lid back as far as it goes which is only a little (1/8th inch of so).

Do not do what I did ... which was to turn the unit upside down so two metal slugs that are on the other side from the two philips screws fall out.  They can actually be lifted up a little with two pens/pencils/toothpicks/whatever so that the lid lifts and slides off easily.

This is sooo much easier (especially assembly...) if you don't unscrew them. Just loosen the screws, slide them up as far as they go along with the lug, and retighten. This is explained on the bottom of later units, but apparently not in 5000! Then you can take the cover off.

elephant:

Here is where the pulley assembly connects to the inside shaft and the small motor with its flywheel fan (sorry the internals are out of focus and dark):

There isn't actually any motor there. The flywheel thingy is just an "air brake" to dampen the motion. The panel is released by a small solenoid which is located in a slot behind the front panel on the left side, you can see it from above. When you press "open", the CPU gives a short pulse to the solenoid, which is then supposed to pull the lock off and the panel turns out.

Why it stopped working, I don't know. Is the "open" button stuck by some chance? If not, and you can see/hear the solenoid clicking, it must be a mechanical problem. Perhaps the fixed part of the front panel is binding it; it is fixed with three screws from above and you could try repositioning it a bit.

I think it is quite safe to open the panel manually, just pull carefully from both upper corners and don't use too much force if it doesn't agree with you.

I agree, but the open switch can also be blocked by the top cover if the top cover sits too far forward.
The top cover mounts to the bottom plate, so if the bottom plate is badly adjusted, the top
cover will easily block the switch.
Check if the switch is clicking before the alu bar bends enough to catch on the
plastic side of the top cover. If not, readjust the bottom plate slightly rearwards.

Martin

The switch does work, the solenoid clicks and somewhat releases. I will take it apart in the morning. Thanks for alll the help!!!

And when I press my OPEN the air brake fan starts spinning but nothing unfolds ..

Thanks for the tips !

signing off at midnight

The solution is straightforward and consistent.

Firstly, disconnect the AC power, and do not reconnect it, until you are completely finished this adjustment procedure.

There are 2 screws which align the door release clip against the solenoid.

To be accessible, the front tray must be closed, and the top cover should be off.

Release the front screw slightly with 1/4 turn only (DO NOT let it come out completely).

Contd...

The other screw is accessible from the top:

Remove this 3-pin connector harness.

Directly underneath, you will see another screw. Release this one also by only 1/4 turn.

Now, with reference to the clip at the right hand edge of the solenoid, adjust the solenoid body, until the clip just catches the edge of the solenoid.

Tighten the 2 screws, connect power, and pushing the door should now release the front tray.

And that's all there is to it!

Menahem.

yachadm:

And that's all there is to it!

excellent !

thank you :)

I will test this today and let you know !

I took it apart, was able to see that the latch was putting too much presure on the thing and i just have to adjust how I press it. Thanks!!

I will try adjusting it.

tournedos:

This is sooo much easier (especially assembly...) if you don't unscrew them. Just loosen the screws, slide them up as far as they go along with the lug, and retighten.

Thank you - you are right - it was MUCH easier.

tournedos:

you can see/hear the solenoid clicking

sadly I can not hear nor see the solenoid actuate.

Yes I with minimal force unlatch the panel so that it unfolds, and I can also "poke" the solenoid latch and that also cause the panel to unfold.

yachadm:

Release the front screw slightly with 1/4 turn only (DO NOT let it come out completely).

This proved to be impossible to even loosen by a 1/4 turn.

yachadm:

The other screw is accessible from the top:

Remove this 3-pin connector harness.

Directly underneath, you will see another screw. Release this one also by only 1/4 turn.

Now, with reference to the clip at the right hand edge of the solenoid, adjust the solenoid body, until the clip just catches the edge of the solenoid.

Tighten the 2 screws, connect power, and pushing the door should now release the front tray.

And that's all there is to it!

Menahem

Unfortunately although this screw was easy to loosen, and then wiggle the solenoid, and then tighten it had not effect - mainly because I think there is no power going through to this part of the system.

Yes, the red dot light comes on, yes there is the satisfying "clunk" of the power on sequence, and yes the MCP can receive status and initiate functions, but no the panel buttons no longer activates any functions.

Any suggestions any one ?

TIA - Ed

elephant:

Yes, the red dot light comes on, yes there is the satisfying "clunk" of the power on sequence, and yes the MCP can receive status and initiate functions, but no the panel buttons no longer activates any functions.

And all connectors are in place? Otherwise, there is a ribbon cable that connects to the moving part of the panel, and carries all the keyboard signals. I believe it is rather common for it to break, but I would not expect all the keys to die at the same time...

tournedos:

elephant:

Yes, the red dot light comes on, yes there is the satisfying "clunk" of the power on sequence, and yes the MCP can receive status and initiate functions, but no the panel buttons no longer activates any functions.

And all connectors are in place? Otherwise, there is a ribbon cable that connects to the moving part of the panel, and carries all the keyboard signals. I believe it is rather common for it to break, but I would not expect all the keys to die at the same time...

Thank you mika - I believe the connectors are but I shall check; the ribbon cable may have become damaged (or connectors dislodged) with the first disassembly/assembly process.

Separately I have verified that the unit in general works - I have tuned into FM and MW stations (AU does not have LW).  I also conducted a test I always wanted to try which was connect a pair of BeoLab 4s to the BeoMaster 5000's pre-amp output and that worked.

I also did a small test of my secret plan - and apart from hum and buzz at both ends I was able to bridge the old and new worlds - something I have dreamed of doing for years ...