Beomaster 3000 details -

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Latest post 03-04-2008 1:01 PM by lausvi. 4 replies.

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03-04-2008 9:28 AM

lausvi
Joined on 04-16-2007
Helsinki - Finland
Posts 498

Beomaster 3000 details

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Hello all.

I have a Beomaster 3000 - the older one (around 1969-1975). I couldn't find it from the Beoworld's product-section; there was only the new BM3000 and the old BM3000-2. (In case the BM3000 would be added to product's: I can provide pictures!). Does the 3000-2 say the -2 on the front panel too? Mine says only 3000.

My main questions are:

- How should I use the input source volume controls on the bottom? Was the TEST-switch on the rear related to this?

- Is there some caps that I should replace just in case? The 3000 works perfectly: would it improve the output (to even better :) ?

- Any special thoughts about the BM3000 ? Quality, rarity, speciality...? I got mine for 40 euros with a BM901 !

When I first time get the 3000 I had to use a lot of contact cleaner to the front panel switches to get them work: before it was almost impossible to get both channels work at the same time. Now it's very much like new. (Except the balance slider is noisy - I'll use some more contact cleaner next time I have it opened... until that I can live with the it). I think there were some four big caps next to the power supply and two of the had been replaced quite recently but with very ugly solders. Should I replace them all anyway?

Also I have noted that the tuning lights appear to be working bit oddly: it's always pointing more strongly to left and the right shows very activity. Caps perhaps?

And finally: any chance for user manual? :) I can use it but it would a part of the perfectionism!

The 3000 is really a nice-looking thing - I have it with my Beovox S75 speakers and they both work very well.

Bang & Olufsen - The art of controlling sound, picture and light

03-04-2008 9:55 AM In reply to

Dillen
Joined on 02-14-2007
Copenhagen / Denmark
Posts 5,008

Re: Beomaster 3000 details

Reply Contact

- Does the 3000-2 say the -2 on the front panel too? Mine says only 3000.

Yes, the Beomaster 3000-2 has this in lettering on the front.

- How should I use the input source volume controls on the bottom?

They are here to allow you to balance the inputs volumes against eachother so that the sources are at apprx the same level.

- Was the TEST-switch on the rear related to this?

No.

- Is there some caps that I should replace just in case?

Yes, all the electrolytic ones. They will all be bad by now,

- The 3000 works perfectly: would it improve the output (to even better :) ?

You THINK it works perfectly, that's very normal. Replace the caps and see what it will do for you.

- Any special thoughts about the BM3000 ? Quality, rarity, speciality...?

Not really. But it's a nice receiver and good looking.

- I got mine for 40 euros with a BM901

Bargain if nice !

- When I first time get the 3000 I had to use a lot of contact cleaner to the front panel switches to get them work: before it was almost impossible to get both channels work at the same time. Now it's very much like new. (Except the balance slider is noisy - I'll use some more contact cleaner next time I have it opened... until that I can live with the it). I think there were some four big caps next to the power supply and two of the had been replaced quite recently but with very ugly solders. Should I replace them all anyway?

Contact cleaner doesn't remove oxidation, it losens it and shifts it around. In the best case it doesn't add to the mess. The front panel switches are hard to get at so contact cleaner may be the only way and due to the way they are built you may be able to "flush out" the dirt using nothing but contact cleaner. The balance slider can be taken apart, cleaned and put back together. Use a glasshair brush on the sliders contact track, use contact cleaner and cotton buds on the resistive track. Wipe clean and dry.

Replace all three large cans. Two are for the output stage, the third (center cap) is for the power supply.

- Also I have noted that the tuning lights appear to be working bit oddly: it's always pointing more strongly to left and the right shows very activity. Caps perhaps?

More likely the trimmers. They fall apart physically. Replace the lot and realign to factory specs.

Could also be that lamp(s) of wrong wattage is mounted.

Martin

03-04-2008 10:22 AM In reply to

lausvi
Joined on 04-16-2007
Helsinki - Finland
Posts 498

Re: Beomaster 3000 details

Reply Contact

Dillen:
- How should I use the input source volume controls on the bottom?
They are here to allow you to balance the inputs volumes against eachother so that the sources are at apprx the same level.
- Was the TEST-switch on the rear related to this?
No.

Thanks. What is the function of the TEST-switch then? :)

Dillen:

- Is there some caps that I should replace just in case?
Yes, all the electrolytic ones. They will all be bad by now,
- The 3000 works perfectly: would it improve the output (to even better :) ?
You THINK it works perfectly, that's very normal. Replace the caps and see what it will do for you.

I almost guessed you would say that! Yes, I'll replace them all. The red/brown cylinderical ROEs are also electrolytics, right? I remember seeing them around in the Beocord 5000 (older one).

Dillen:

- Any special thoughts about the BM3000 ? Quality, rarity, speciality...?
Not really. But it's a nice receiver and good looking.
- I got mine for 40 euros with a BM901
Bargain if nice !

Not too bad it was: it was said to be non-working as the previous owner didn't know how to clean the switches and it hardly gave both channels out at the same time before that. Wooden parts almost perfect - only a few small scratches around. The 901 was extra - it was dirty and volume sliders string was broken out.

Dillen:

Contact cleaner doesn't remove oxidation, it losens it and shifts it around. In the best case it doesn't add to the mess. The front panel switches are hard to get at so contact cleaner may be the only way and due to the way they are built you may be able to "flush out" the dirt using nothing but contact cleaner. The balance slider can be taken apart, cleaned and put back together. Use a glasshair brush on the sliders contact track, use contact cleaner and cotton buds on the resistive track. Wipe clean and dry.

Yeah, I was planning something like that. Next time I'll try to clean it better.

Dillen:

Replace all three large cans. Two are for the output stage, the third (center cap) is for the power supply.

Yes, I'll do that too.

Thanks!

Bang & Olufsen - The art of controlling sound, picture and light

03-04-2008 11:55 AM In reply to

Dillen
Joined on 02-14-2007
Copenhagen / Denmark
Posts 5,008

Re: Beomaster 3000 details

Reply Contact

- The red/brown cylinderical ROEs are also electrolytics, right?

Correct, and when you are done replacing leaking, partly shorted or just out of spec. caps, there won't be any of the red ones left in there.

The TEST switch couples the speaker outputs in series. You will actually be able to use this for adjusting the input levels so my answer above was a very short one. Fact is that in real life it doesn't really matter much unless you go for absolute accuracy; Play a perfect MONO source (the MONO button won't do here since it sits after the level controls) and adjust the left/right inputs for minimum output. I find an oscilloscope or a B&O RV9 or RV11 AC voltmeter better for this or simply listen your way. Anyway you do it, you will find that the balance control slider (or any control on the source) will ruin the whole thing first time moved. You will never be able to place it exactly in the same spot again. I never found the TEST switch useful.

Martin

03-04-2008 1:01 PM In reply to

lausvi
Joined on 04-16-2007
Helsinki - Finland
Posts 498

Re: Beomaster 3000 details

Reply Contact

Dillen:
- The red/brown cylinderical ROEs are also electrolytics, right?
Correct, and when you are done replacing leaking, partly shorted or just out of spec. caps, there won't be any of the red ones left in there.

In BM3000 they were actually light grey coloured.. :) Just checked!

I made a list of them and I'll order replacements next time I order parts. There weren't too many.

There was two of the big 3000 uF 70v caps left - the center one for the power was replaced by two 2200 uF 100v caps. I think I'll replace them all...

I cleaned the sliders and got the balance to work perfectly too. It seems that when I use AFC the tuner lights are not quite balanced, the right-hand-side light is brighter. I didn't find the light balace adjusting potentiometer - I'll check that next time.

Bang & Olufsen - The art of controlling sound, picture and light

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