hi martin ,

regarding the 2103 change , is beogram 50 the same ? my 50 has some problem of skipping on the start of track .

when buying replacement for 2159,2104,2107,21381nd2140 , what voltage should i buy ?

sorry for my ignorance .

thanks for your helps .

regards

david

The Beogram CD50 is complete different to the CD5500-7000, there is no part similar.

 But.... the CD50 has the same problems with the caps. Replace the caps on the top board, the board can be removed easily, but watch for the one soldered wire where it was connected to. Replace all of the caps on this board.

Replace all types up to 1uf by MKS plastic types, no elektrolyt. The bigger ones use miniature types, 105 degree types. The reason is heat in the CD50, it becomes really hot and the controller is in the hottest area. Especially the laser controll unit in the back of the controller uses big standard caps and has almost no space for them, in direct neighbourhood of hot power transistors. With miniature types there will be much more space and cooling air.

The next problem is the "Track 0" switch in front of the laser unit. The switch makes trouble with signal noise. Use a 1-10uf cap parallel to the switch (check polarity...). Then the start with the first title will work better.

The caps for the CD5500-7000 will work with 16V

hi bogener ,

thank you for your advise . i have never open up a beogram cd 5500 . do you have diagram showing how to access the capacitors i need to change ? thank you again .

regards

david

Just open the cover (2 bolts on the backside) , there are 2 slides.

Open the upper board, on the left side is a metal hinge, remove the bolts marked on the board and move it into vertical position

Then you see the controller board. Remove the cables, remove 4 bolts. The flat cable has a special lock system in its socket, pull the socket to open it.

Replace the blue Philips capacitor 2103, 33uf 16V

As mentioned before, it MUST be a blue Philips 33uf or better 47uf 16V. Most of the other caps on the market will not work properly. You can try different manufacturers, there will be probably no damage... but it's your risk!

Martin

hello martin ,

 my beomaster 5000 has a little problem . yesterday , the volume down button has no response even i pressed on it . today , i cannot open the front door . is it easy to fix ? how can i access the button inside ? please help . thank you .

regards

david 

Sorry to bump this thread back up!

I seem to have a similar problem :-(((

My CD5500 is powering up - and the tray mechanism is working fine. However when I insert a CD and attempt to play it - The Track light illuminates but the CD motor just twitches around - say a tenth of a turn and stops.... You can give it a gentle helping hand and it will spin away slowly and eventually come to rest after 30 seconds or so. I've replaced cap 2013 with no difference.

I've checked around for dry joints etc and re-inserted all of the connectors.

Any ideas anyone?

Chris.

The first generation of the CD5500 has 4-coil disc motor, the later version a dc motor. The first version uses 4 wires to the motor, the later 2 wires.

So, you probably have the first generation on your drive ... 

First check the 4-pin connector.

Pin 1-4: Signal Motor ON, Ground, 9.5V , -9.5V. Check power.

There are 2 resistors: R3093, R3094 = 1.2 Ohm. If there is overload, these resistors blow. Check them.

If one of these resistors failed, check the transistors... one of them or both of a pair are defect. There are 4 transistors on the small motor board, 2x BC337, 2x BC327, replace them.

There is also a potentiometer on the board. It can fail by oxidation, measure it and replace it... if it fails, the 4-quadrant motor runs not in circle, then one coil is missing. Check it with an oszilloscope, wether the 2 sinus waves have 90 degrees shift to each other (Pin 1 to 14 on LM324) 

Die - thank you for your reply :-)

I must have the later version as the drive motor connector only has two wires - black and grey. However I measured the output after pressing play and the output (pin 2) is a mere 0.56 volts. Pin 4 (not connected) measures 9.2 volts.

 I will try to get the scematics as this seems to be deeper than I thought  :-(

 Any further ideas?

 Thanks again

Chris.

Hi Chris,

yes, i still have some ideas ... :) Die_Bogener is plural in german (The_Bogeners...), so we are a family and still very alive ;)

OK, 2 wire DC motor.

On the controller board are 2 resistors working as a fuse, R3212 and R3213, both 10 Ohms. Check them, there are 9.5V and -9.5V to ground over them. If one of them is defect, replace TR6124 and TR6125 (BC338-25 + BC328-25).

If you remove both transistors, you can measure the opamp IC 6103 NJM4560 Pin 7 controlling these transistors, it should switch the motor on (Pin 1 Motor, Pin 2 is ground).  But dont connect the motor, it could be to hard for the small chip without the transistors...

Another idea could be, that the motor is defect, so you can check wether the motor works with a standard 9V battery. 

Martin

Hi martin

Sorry for getting your ID mixed up!

Thanks so much again for your advice - can I make a donation for your help? I would dearly love to get my CD5500 working again - it's been too long since I heard it running :-(

OK - I removed and measured both resistors - both are measuring 10 ohms. I replace resistors.

I checked voltages when play is pressed as follows:

6124:
B - minus 1.2v
C - plus 8.5v
E - minus 0.6v

6125:
B - minus 1.2v
C - minus 9.2v
E - minus 0.6v

Output on pin 7 IC6103 - minus 1.4v

Voltage on 10 ohm resistors - plus 8.7v & minus 9.5v

I disconnected motor and powered with 9v battery - spins up beautifully!

I cannot yet find any service data - so am doing this a bit blind!

Thanks again!

Chris.

The service manual is available for download for silver and gold members. Well worth the small fee and if you go for gold membership you get to participate in the monthly prizedraw. Checkout the prizes here : http://www.beoworld.org/prize_draw.asp

Martin

Hmmm, remove TR6123 BC848B and check again.

Check also R3210 and R3211 = 1 Ohm, these are the power supply fuses for the opamp IC6103, +9.5= Pin 8 and -9.5V = Pin 4.

Ahhh - tonight I made a discovery - and I think my CD5500 is toast!

I noticed the heatsink was extremely hot. It's the MC7805 +5v Regulator - it's cooking!
I disconnect the laser controller board.  The regulator is still cooking! I measure the input: +8.75v - the output: +0.7v!!

I remove the regulator and test it - it's fine with 5v out from 12v in. I measure the resistance on the board from the regulator output to ground: 0.39 ohms!

OK - I see there are two jumpers directly from the output of the regulator - one feeds the laser board and one the main board. I disconnect the main board jumper J90 - power up and press play. I now have on the regulator +9.4v in and +5v out and no cooking! I reconnect the laser board connectors and press play. The motor spins right up!

So something on the +5v line on the main board is cooked - or lots of things have cooked [:'(]

I can't see or feel (heat) anything obvious. It's a bit too deep for me now though - anyone want a fried CD5500 main board!?!

C. [:'(]

No problem... with 0,72V you have not fried parts... at least just some in the power supply. Sounds like a dead diode with 0,7V...

Which one of the 7805 is hot? There are 2 of them: IC1 and IC2, both are 7805.

I dont know why, but i have the feeling that diode D15, TR10 BD534, TR11 BC547 are dead and make a short...

Hi Martin

Thanks again for your advice :-)

I think though this CD5500 is well and truly had it! I might try to find one in not so good cosmetic condition and transplant the innards from that into this one.

TR10 - TR11 and D15 all checked out fine. IC2 is boiling hot - but not if I remove J90 - it is cool and without J90 connected the motor spins up. So it must be something further down the line from there...

 Thanks for all the efforts :-)

Chris.

Hi

I´m new to the forum and i have a Beogram CD5500 with a problem that  is:

The player doesn´t read the CD´s and when i enter service mode in the arm test 1  i can´t get the arm to move , i already have a new laser part but i don´t want to mount it , because i´m affraid to fry it , my PCB30 board is older than the one in the pic because it doesn´t have the numbers and the spindle motor is the 4 wire coil system, If anyone could help i would be very thankfull.

Thanks

Hi

Find out why the arm didn´t move , the foilcable that  connects to pcb30 was faulty , now i can do all the tests . arm moving , focus and spindle rotate except , test nº4 the radial search doesn´t work , also the player isn´t reading the tracks , when i insert a cd it can´t read the tracks , what can it be , the capacitors? I´ve measured them and apparently they aren´t faulty.

Any help will be welcome

Thanks

99% of the dead caps measured will have almost their capacity... but they work as resistors, the isolation is gone.

I would never use a cap twice... especially when these parts cost 5 cents.

Hi

Thank you for your reply.

i´m going to change the caps and see what happens.

Thanks

hi martin ,

happy new year .

i have replaced a 47uf cap to my beogram CD 5500 as you taught . the  5500 now can play every type of CDs normally !! thank you . but for sometimes (once or twice a week ), it will shut down by itself suddenly after a loud strange noise (sound like BLOKKKK , BLOKKKKK). if i restart it , it will play normal again for a whole night .

do you have any idea on this ?

regards

david

Hello David,

this sounds like a defect in the power supply.

If it was the laser controller, it would go into standby quietly, probably no sound and it would simply stop reading.

The power supply is on the upper mainboard, i would look for cold spots around the black steel cooler. Steel and mainboards have different expansion, so the cooler can rip off parts from the boards.

If you find some yellow/brown stuff on one of the caps, replace them. They are old enough for replacement.

I would replace first: C102, C110, C202, C210 = 100uF 25V. They are responsible for the output filter, if they fail, you would hear probably a loud PLOPP and a fast standby.

Martin

hi ,

thanks again for your help . i will try to do it soon .

by the way , i am trying also to replace cap for a beogram CD50 , which cap is playing the role of 2103 of the CD5500 ? 

you have mentioned before about the 0 track switch and should add a cap to it . i have the service manual now , where is it ?

thank you for your help .

regards

david

The CD50 is complete different... and i dont have the CD50 manual, i just replaced all caps and it worked ;)

I just can tell you, it's the upper board and it becomes really hot. The rear is so full with caps, no cooling air and absolutly no space, i saw this brown stuff on the caps and replaced them all. With miniature types there is now so much space available ...

The switch is in front of the drive, right on the top, you will see two wires to this switch.

Have a look here, a CD50 has the same problems...

http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/thread/22081.aspx

hi martin ,

almost all caps were replaced for the upper servo board of beogram cd 50 (exept the ones inside the little reversed board , it's quite hard to access ) , the skiping problem still exist . when i play a cd , after 2-3 seconds of the song , it will skip 5-6 seconds , then play normal . if i go to another song , it also skip at openning of the song . if i just let the cd plays , it will play ok . do you think i should also replace the caps in the lower decoder board ? i think they are also dried up . please advise . thank you in advance .

david

Hi David,

i think i have also removed the caps in the small reversed board, do it 100%.

The more you replace the better. Replace the caps on the power supply, that should also help a little bit.

The laser current needed some adjustment, i made a mark on the potentiometer and changed it a very tiny bit. It is the white poti in the middle of the board. But take care, make the mark with a pencil to have the original adjustment.

Martin