Hello, I recently ran into a Beosystem 5000 from a family member.  It's in great cosmetic condition, but I can't get the Beogram and Beocord to work.  I was wondering if anyone might have any advice for me.

First off, the Beogram 5005 doesn't have a cartridge.  I understand that's a huge expense, which sucks, but what I was even more worried about was that it just plain doesn't work.    Okay, I'll explain: when I got it, the metal plate wasn't really inserted properly.  I snapped it in, and it seemed to "fit" okay and snugly, but when I turn it on, the plate makes a scraping sound, the turntable kinda winds down and then shuts off.  When I take it off, the black plate and electronics underneath seem to move okay.  So, I thought it was more of a problem with the way I was fitting the plate on top, but nothing I do makes any difference.  You can even sorta see on the bottom where the plastic has sorta been scratched from where the plate has been scraping around on it.  I don't want to fool around with it too much and maybe damage it more, especially if I'm doing something wrong.  Anyone got any advice??

 
The other issue is the Beocord.  It opens up, but none of the buttons work.  There's a tape in the machine, but anything I push just gives a clicking sound.  When I switch to it on the Control Panel, the right side just displays zeros (000 etc) and nothing works there either.

 What do you guys think?  The CD50 and receiver seem to be quite fine and sound nice, but I'm not sure if tampering with the others is really worth it.  I went to a B & O store and they were absolutely no help at all, other than to say "well good luck sucka, haha!"

 

greg 

Sounds like the beogram has it's transport screws tightened up. Look underneath the deck, three screws are identified which should be loosened all the way out until they are loose. The platter should now have a distinct springy feel to it. If not then it can be adjusted via 3 screws on the suspension springs. Fiddly job but not too technical. Well worth fixing, the mechanics are fairly bombproof.

The beocord drive belt is probably perished and will have wrapped itself around the spindle in a sticky mess. New belts are available from Martin Olsen (Dillen on this forum) together with instructions for fitting. Simple job.

Alright, thanks for the quick reply!  Yeah I was hoping the Beogram problem wasn't something serious, since the underlying mechanics seemed to turn fine without that metal plate.  I'll take a look for those screws and hopefully it helps the situation.  The other thing was, would anyone have any advice on getting a new cartridge?  I phoned the B&O store and they noted that they're now made by a 3rd-party vendor and the MMC4 equivalent was $250 Cdn (I almost dropped the phone!); online I found Sound-Smith, who I guess makes them now, and that cartridge is slightly cheaper to buy direct from their horribly-constructed web site that makes my head spin just trying to look at it.  Would that be the best way to go, or is there another way to get cartridges for this sucka?  From what I can see it looks like they're proprietary pieces, which is never a good thing when you're dealing with older electronics.

 

As for the Beocord, I wasn't terribly interested in it anyway (seriously, who plays tapes any more?!) but I'm always interested in a fix-up project!     Any estimate on how much a belt would cost, and where I could get one?  I just tried Googling Martin Olsen and came up with nothing, so is this Dillen fellow just wandering around on these forums somewhere? 

 

And since it seems people around here are so helpful, any other advice about a system like this in terms of ensuring it's running properly?  I know next-to-nothing about B&O other than it's decent audio gear; I've got a Rega Planar3 setup that I enjoy, but I really like the look of this older system and the CD50 actually surprised me with a pleasant sound despite its age.  I'm even thinking of hunting around for some
B&O speakers for this system if I'm able to get it up and going again...the Beovox RL 60-series caught my eye, but I don't know if there was another set that this system was specifically made for?

 

Again, thanks for all the info! 

 

greg 

You can get the cartridges on Ebay but you take the risk that they are bust or worn. The Soundsmith ones are very good if a little hand made compared to the originals. I would (and have) buy one of these from preference. The Beogram is not that different in quality level to the Rega - you will find the Rega has better bass which is down to the record support I believe and that the B&O has much less sensitivity to external stimuli!

The beocord is well worth fixing! It is an extra source and very useful for parties where you can record 90 minutes of music that can play uninterrupted. Martin is on site - look for member Dillen and send him a PM and i am sure he will get back to you.

RL speakers are OK. I prefer some of the more traditional ones but you need to decide that for yourself. Many need the capacitors replacing in the cross over - very easy and well worth the bother. You don't need B&O speakers though - any will work with the BM5000. This is a very good receiver by the way - technically the best in the range with lots of expensive features removed from the later ones! 

As Peter has already said. Go with a new Soundsmith cartridge if you can. Even new old stock ones that come up on Ebay can be faulty. Even though theu have not been used the suspension can harden up in them and they won't work.

 

Craig 

Yeah, it seems like it would be cheaper just to order them directly from Sound-Smith's terrible headache-y website.    From what I can see on this site, the MMC4 that this system came with was more of a midrange/low-end cartridge (much like the system itself I guess).  Would springing for an upgrade (I guess the SMMC3 would be the only one in the budget I'm willing to give to this project) be worth it in anyone's opinion?

 I didn't gather from this website's review that the receiver was anything special.  Anything in particular that the BM5000 was known for??  

 

greg 

Not worth the extra in my opinion. The Sound-smith smmc4 is an excellent cartridge and superior to the original B&O offering.

joeyboygolf:

Not worth the extra in my opinion. The Sound-smith smmc4 is an excellent cartridge and superior to the original B&O offering.

 

I agree!

 

Chris.

Okay, it's been a while, but I've been very busy and this got pushed to the back of the list.  So I checked the three transport screws underneath the deck, and they were tight.  I loosened them up a good deal, but the deck still doesn't turn without scraping, and there's still no "springy" feel to it.  I guess the screws on the suspension springs will have to be fiddled with.  Anyone have any idea how to go about that?  On that note, is there some sort of troubleshooting manual or anything I should take a look at?

 

The other thing was, I did get ahold of Martin Olsen about the Beocord drive belt.  I can order one from him, but I just got to wondering if there was a more-local North American person/business who sells them as well; it seems kind of ridiculous to get this thing shipped halfway around the world!    If not I'll probably just order from him, but I feel a little nervous spending $50 (w/shipping) on something that might not even bring the thing back to life, especially so since checking online shows Beocord 5000s available for about the same price. 

 

Again, thanks for any help/advice!

 

greg 

shortcuttomoncton:

The other thing was, I did get ahold of Martin Olsen about the Beocord drive belt.  I can order one from him, but I just got to wondering if there was a more-local North American person/business who sells them as well; it seems kind of ridiculous to get this thing shipped halfway around the world!    If not I'll probably just order from him, but I feel a little nervous spending $50 (w/shipping) on something that might not even bring the thing back to life, especially so since checking online shows Beocord 5000s available for about the same price. 

 

Again, thanks for any help/advice!

 

greg 

Fair comment up to a point but you would probably have to change the belts on one bought for $50 anyway. It is age that is the problem with these belts not the amount of use. The other thing to remember is that Martin includes full easy to follow fitting instructions which can save you a lot of aggro & time if you've never opened one of these before.

From your description of the beocord symptoms I would bet my house on it being just the belts.

 

Chris.

50 dollars - where did you get that figure ?

As I told you in the PM reply, belts are EUR 16 (~ 21 dollars) for a set to your machine and that includes packing/shipping to your door. Mounting instructions are also available if you need (free with the belts).

Martin

Dillen:

50 dollars - where did you get that figure ?

Yeah - I thought this sounded a little high

Heh heh, yeah, I didn't realize shipping was included in that, plus last time I checked the Euro was running a lot higher than it is now!  I'll be ordering one ASAP to get it shipped out.

 

Did anyone have any recommendations on my turntable issue?  Obviously I need to loosen up these "suspension screws" which were mentioned by someone.  I could just go poking around inside but I'm kind of hesitant to do so, especially considering how hard it is to get replacement parts if I mess something up.  :D  Is there any sort of tutorial or manual available for this kinda thing, or does anyone have any sage advice/warnings?  

 

greg 

Both the user - and service manuals are available for download.

Martin

shortcuttomoncton:

Did anyone have any recommendations on my turntable issue?  Obviously I need to loosen up these "suspension screws" which were mentioned by someone.  I could just go poking around inside but I'm kind of hesitant to do so, especially considering how hard it is to get replacement parts if I mess something up.  :D  Is there any sort of tutorial or manual available for this kinda thing, or does anyone have any sage advice/warnings?  

 

greg 

The 3 suspension screws are located underneath the turntable at equally spaced intervals and simply loosen them off all the way. Be careful if you are planning on turning it upside down though as the platter & subplatter will fall off and may wreck the tonearm & sensor arm. Safest way is put it on a table and pull it forward to loosen them from underneath.

I agree with Martin - really worth upgrading to Gold membership for access to the user & service manuals to get the best out of your system. AND if you're quick you'll still qualify for the first Beoworld prize draw and any subsequent ones for the coming year.

Chris.

If you are new to the B&O world, please listen to Peter's advice concerning purchasing phono cartridges on Ebay.  Do not purchase B&O cartridges on Ebay!!  There is one simple reason, there is simply no way to know if they are functional. In fact the seller will probably not know since he or she will probably not have tested them, and even if they know that the cartridges are  non-functional, do you really think they'll tell the truth when a possbile 100 dollar sale is guaranteed? 

In my own case I thought I had made the deal of the century, and bought an MMC5 for $75 on Ebay, only to find that it was useless!!  Was there a way to get a refund from the original seller ?  Too bad, he apparently was unreachable through his original email address.  So I took that one on the chin, and simply did what I should have done in the first place, I ordered the correct cartidge from Soundsmillth, and now I have a n RX2 turntable that plays beautifully.   John Y  

Alright, so, I found those suspension screws on the bottom and yes they were tightened down...so I loosened them off, but it didn't make a difference.  Then I made the connection with those three screws underneath the platter (and that back piece), and tightened those down pretty much all the way, and of course the platter lifted itself up and started working smoothly.  I still have to fiddle around with getting it even, but would anyone have any advice as to how tight these top platter screws should be?  Should they be tightened down with the platter raised the maximum amount, or just the minimum amount to let the platter glide smoothly?

 

As I'm a poor, broke-ass law student, I just don't have the money to get a membership unfortunately...getting those Beocord belts and a cartridge is taking care of that!  Good thing our dollar is doing so well against the US' right now, haha.   

 

My other question was about speakers.  It was mentioned before that any speakers will work, but from making offhand glances at the Beomaster it seems to me there's some sort of proprietary connection going on for inputs, is that correct?  Is there a generally accepted best way to get around that?  I'm getting excited about getting some speakers, but this thing looks so sleek sitting Beocord-Beomaster-Beogram CD with the Beogram right on top in the middle...I'm gonna need fancy speakers to match, damn!

 

Thanks again for all the help!     

greg 

The speaker connection plugs are 2 pin Din (male) which simply plug into the speaker sockets of the beomaster. There are 2 types available at most electronics suppliers, soldered & screw types, and cost pennies. Use any decent speaker wire and makes sure the positive side of the cable is connected to the small round post and the negative to the flat spade post.

The alternative is B&O cables but they are nothing particularly extra special and cost a packet. Don't worry too much about spending a fortune on speaker wire as it doesn't really matter whether you spend $1.00 or $1,000 per metre.

I'm off to put on my tin helmet now before ANOTHER speaker wire debate kicks off

Chris.

Just curious about speaker suggestions for this particular amp, as my plans finally round into form, haha!  I was looking at an older pair of KEF Q50s, which are bigger than I wanted (I was aiming for bookshelf) but leave room for future upgrades (and I can get a decent price!).  Anyone have any opinions on running KEF speakers off the B&O amp, by any chance?

 

The other thing was, I didn't really find out if getting the platter balanced was simply a visual trial-and-error method or if there was some fine method/science/art behind it.  Anyone care to pontificate?  (Not that you're doing so, medogs, just saying......  )

 

Thanks!

 greg
 

You should aim for a gap of 2-3mm between the record and the non moving aluminium surface. No more than 3mm. Remember to check with the playing arm at the edge and the centre of the record, it will make a difference.

Leveling the platter is a bit of a balls aching trial and error job I'm afraid.

I don't see any problem with the KEF speakers. Go for it!

Well, I've moved halfway across Canada, but the system is finally up and (mostly) working, although I've been wavering about whether to get that belt repaired or not.  I'll probably end up doing it, but right now it's pretty much a non-issue; where would I even be able to get tape cassettes at anyway?! 

 I do have a couple questions about the system.  Like I said, everything seems to be working fine, except with one exception:  the Beomaster 5000 has a few buttons that don't seem to work!  I never noticed it this summer because I mostly used the MCP, to be honest.  First off, the outside Mute and Play buttons don't seem to work – they don't have that satisfying "click" feeling that the Play button on the CD50 does, either.  So, in order to turn off the amp, I usually press and hold the Play button on the CD player, which turns off both, or I let the CD player run its course and shut down, and eventually the amp goes to "sleep."

The other buttons that don't work are on the inside panel, and they're the right-side row of buttons running from "FM Mono" to "Advance."  Oddly enough, the single button at the end, "Store," does seem to work – at least when I push it, it gives me the P sign.  The others just have no response.

 Anyone got an opinion?  I'm not terribly concerned because I just use the MCP most of those functions anyway.  Still, I wouldn't mind knowing if it's symptomatic of a larger concern!

 
Finally, the speakers I ended up picking up were Energy's Pro Series 4.5.  They're about 7 years old, but from what I understand were made when Energy still had that small-company quality, and as far as I can tell they sound simply fantastic.  The question I had was about how much I should be careful about driving them with this amp.  They're not "big" speakers – 15-150 W RMS – but that's probably still a little bigger than what this amp was meant for!  Thus, I'm curious as to whether anyone has some recommendations on how loud I should be setting my amp.  I did some testing, and things sound pretty gorgeous and very clear up to the 3.4 (out of 6 of course) range.  But, I stuck some Tool in for some dense, heavy sound, and slowly cranked it a couple notches to see what would happen.  At 3.8, I suddenly got some small crackling, so I turned it back down pretty quick!  Since then I've been a little paranoid – I'm not sure if it was a product of the speaker, amp, or the shitty speaker wire I'm currently running them on (although it is very short, about 5 feet or so, so that shouldn't be an issue.)

 

Any of that sound suspicious to anyone? 

 

greg
 

 

 

The front panel ribbon cable is bad, it's very common.

Martin

Is there an "easy fix?"

 

greg 

Easy - no, not really but not impossible, I've done several.
You need to dismount the display and flip-down front panel to gain access to the cable.
The cable will have to be removed and is no longer available from B&O but I have had success with mounting discrete thin flexible wires instead of the ribbon.
Feeling the difference in flexibility over the original cable I actually find the discrete wires the better solution.
Make sure they don't get into a squeeze against the lower front frame chassis when closing the panel and take a note of the position
and exact path of the string for the front panel dampener before taking it apart.

Martin

Medogsfat:

The speaker connection plugs are 2 pin Din (male) which simply plug into the speaker sockets of the beomaster. There are 2 types available at most electronics suppliers, soldered & screw types, and cost pennies. Use any decent speaker wire and makes sure the positive side of the cable is connected to the small round post and the negative to the flat spade post.

 

Well I went to Radio Shack today and they don't carry 2-pin DIN at all.  I downloaded the Beomaster manual and it says that it uses Phono plugs or Bang & Olufsen 7-pin plugs.  Hmmmmmmm.  Is this information incorrect?  I just need regular Phono plugs?!

 

greg