I've been using a pair of Dynaudio Focus 140 with both a Beomaster 7000 and a 6500. Was very pleased with the performance. The Focus 140 is considered to be quite similar to the S1.4 in character.

Check your connection. The Dynaudios are very picky when it comes to phase, make certain that you follow the instructions re +/- connection - and check both the "mute enabled" and the non-mute speaker outs on your Beomaster.

Don't use loudness, etc.

And do experiment with speaker placement both relative to the room and yourself.
 

On some Beomasters, the 7000 been one of them. When you press Mute, it only works on one set of Speaker Connections. Cannot remember which set it is though. Just try them in both.

Craig

No, ideally there shouldn't be any difference between the two speakers outs, but the connections may have degraded, and it's worth trying both. Particularly as the mute circuitry is mechanical - at least that's my understanding.

If I remember correctly, the round pin is + and the flat pin is - (don't have time to look it up now). Your Dynaudio speakers have plus and minus clearly marked. Make certain that + from the Beomaster goes to + on the speakers, as the treble drivers on Dynaudios are phase sensitive, as claimed by the manufacturer. 

I am sure that my + and - connections were write, I will however try with the non mute speaker exits. If all this does not work, could I eventualy connect my 7000 to another Power Amp via in-out exit...?

Actually the pin is +ve and the blade -ve on a DIN plug. The muting circuit works on Speaker 1 and the contacts can corrode with time so using Speaker 2 can sometimes help.

Two other points:

1. The 7000 may need servicing - this will be 10 years+ old and is likely to be out of spec. Mine certainly dulled a bit.

2. I know I am bleating on again, but the 7000 produces 55W a channel RMS - the 110W is total power used per channel which is not the same at all! 55W is of course totally adequate!

Peter:

Actually the pin is +ve and the blade -ve on a DIN plug. The muting circuit works on Speaker 1 and the contacts can corrode with time so using Speaker 2 can sometimes help.

Two other points:

1. The 7000 may need servicing - this will be 10 years+ old and is likely to be out of spec. Mine certainly dulled a bit.

2. I know I am bleating on again, but the 7000 produces 55W a channel RMS - the 110W is total power used per channel which is not the same at all! 55W is of course totally adequate!

Baaaaaaaaaa

Peter:

Actually the pin is +ve and the blade -ve on a DIN plug. The muting circuit works on Speaker 1 and the contacts can corrode with time so using Speaker 2 can sometimes help.

Good, I remembered correctly when it came to +/-, then. Would have been funny if I had it bass ackwards on my stereo!

BTW - often thought this phase thing was just a lot of noise, but I can actually hear when it's out of phase. Probably from having listened quite a bit to surround channels on movies, where the sound engineers are often playing around with the phase to assist the sense of perspective. 

Someone I know who had been in the hifi industry a very long time told me about the time he was representing a hifi company at some hifi show (I think he was working for Epos at the time).

Linn came along, and set up their room to the finest detail, putting up sound damping, adjusting the positioning of furniture to exact standards, and generally being hifi-twits. A rep from the long-time rivals Naim came into their room whilst the Linn reps weren't looking, and switched the phase round on the bass drivers on one side of their setup (fancy top-of-the-range Linn with bi-amped speakers and active crossovers etc...). Of course, the Linn reps were so convinced that they had managed to get their setup sounding absolutely perfect, they didn't bother to check anything during the course of the hifi-show. It took until the last day for one of the Linn guys to notice something was wrong. That's how to get egg on your face

Here endeth the nerd story

Oh, I think those are nice stories, telling us to ease up and enjoy. The tweaking can get ridiculous. I don't know what out-of-phase on bass sounds like, but have gotten an inkling as to what it can do to sensitive tweeters. The Dynaudios are -- I can't listen to Roger Water's Amused to Death with the speakers out of phase. (Experimented - since Waters himself experiments with what he calls Q-phase to project the upper frequencies into the room.)

Another Hi-Fi demo, this time for Nordost cables. Nordost are infamous for beginning with a low quality recording, and then switching to better and better recordings of other music as they progress to their recommended cable. The person running the demo was into his third cable change when someone in the select and small audience pointed out that what they had been hearing was in mono - "Was that intentional?"

He-he.

 

You wouldn't do it via the in/out connection, it would be from the PowerLink connections. You'd have to wire a pair of cables for yourself (B&O's own 'PowerLink to Line' converters won't work for this application).

You could as well give it a try, it's worth the try. If you want amps which just 'go', then I'd try Naim. They make some really rather fantastic amplifiers, which just seem so musical (although I'm not sure whether they're that truthful to the original recording).