Can I install a LC2 in a wall, connected with only 2 (instead of 4) wires?

If so/not, how can it be done?

Hi Doc.
There are some members who have them in the wall, Ed(uard) in particular. Unfortunately, I think he's on his holidays but you might be able to send him a PM.
 However I don't think the two wire idea will work. When the light is off, it still needs current for it to be able to receive IR signals.
I think mine looks great between the ceiling and the light

I think what you are asking is

"Does the LC2 need a neutral wire ?" The answer is yes it does need a neutral wire.

In the UK most light switches do not have a neutral wire and in that case you cannot use the LC2 in place of the switch.

However, sometimes the electrician will join the two neutral wires in the back of the switch box and in this case you CAN use the LC2 in place of the switch.

I suggest you have a look behind the light switch to see if you are going to be lucky.

You don't need to have a neutral wire for a light switch. Further, most main lights don't have a neutral wire. What you could do though, is have a switch, then recess an LC2 in the wall a foot or so above the main switch rather than have it hanging from the ceiling. It really all depends on the look of your room. Personally, I have a powerful anglepoise lamp that I have on remote control and my main lighting (4 minispotlights) working off a dimmer switch. It gives me a whole range of options for how on, off or dimmed I want the room to be and how I want to control it all

Behind the switch isn't any neutral (blue) wire; just brown and black......

So, no luck.

I don't really understand what Calvin is saying: how about the wires?

Calvin,

You don't need a neutral wire for a light switch, it is in the ceiling, but you DO need a neutral wire for an LC2 located in place of a light.switch.

If he has the LC2 hanging from the light as in the previous picture, then no problem because the neutral wire is ALWAYS available at the ceiling point..

Doc,

So, you don't have any wires other than the two going to the switch which means the only way you can use the LC2 in place of the light switch is to run another cable in the wall which I guess you would not be keen to do.

Thanks Keith,

Going to place an extra (neutral) wire. Then will 3 wires be enough? And how do I connect the wires in the LC2 (= which colours on which side?).

Greetz

Doc:

Thanks Keith,

Going to place an extra (neutral) wire. Then will 3 wires be enough? And how do I connect the wires in the LC2 (= which colours on which side?).

Greetz

If you need to ask these questions, my feeling is that you should not be doing the job!

For safety reasons, I suggest that you employ an electrician.

You sound like my dad...

Good advice, but like to do a little of handywork myself!

Doc:

You sound like my dad...

Good advice, but like to do a little of handywork myself!

Admirable attitude but one false move...........................permanent.

I switch of the current!

 

First switch off the power....

Assuming the electrician who originally installed your wiring followed the wiring regulations, then the brown wire will be the "Live" from your lighting ring and will connect to the "Live" input terminal of the LC2. Your newly run neutral wire will go to the "Neutral" input terminal and the black wire which should go to your lights will be connected to the "live" output terminal of the LC2.

As I am not a trusting person, I would normally check that the brown wire really is "Live" from the lighting ring with a meter. If you have done electrical work before I am sure you know that, but as it sounds like you may not have done this before, you may wish to get someone to check this for you.

With regards to the physical installation of the LC2 into the switch position. Depending on the depth of your wall box you may need to either replace the box with a deeper version and/or leave the black rear assembly of the LC2 removed.

Thanks Keith!

So if I understand you correctly, there doesn't have to be a neutral (blue) wire going out the LC2?

I will let you know if it works (and wether I'm still alive).

You are correct.

The reason is you already have the neutral wire connected at the light and the neutral on the LC2 input and output are connected, it is just needs to make the LC2 itself work.

Now be very careful, whilst we all need to learn, you have made it clear in previous posts that you have not done this before, so if you have any doubts ask/don't continue

Will do!

Thanks again.

Assuming the electrician who originally installed your wiring followed the wiring regulations, then the brown wire will be the "Live" from your lighting ring and will connect to the "Live" input terminal of the LC2. Your newly run neutral wire will go to the "Neutral" input terminal and the black wire which should go to your lights will be connected to the "live" output terminal of the LC2.

Keith,

I did it in the above way, but now I can't control my lamp: it stays on, and can't be controlled by the remote?!

Doc. Does it work by touching the dome?

Andy T.

False alarm; did the wiring on the LC2 up-side-down.......

But now it works!

Unfortunatly I can't operate it by touching the LC2 ?!

Any ideas/solutions ?

I am assuming by your statement you mean it works via the remote control, but not by touching the sense dome ?

Have you previously used/tested the LC2 before you installed it ?

If the LC2 unit had the problem of the touch sense dome not working before you installed it in the wall, then you may have an early version which did have some problems in this area.

Fundimentally, if you had an early version there was a problem with contact between the IR cover and the rubber behind it. B&O did bring out an updated version of the dome to solve this problem, but if this is your problem which seems likely, then refitting/aligning the dome may well resolve the problem.

Indeed it works with the remote, but not by touching the dome.

I have two now; one I fitted into the wall, the other is on the ground. Both can't be operated by touching them! One of them (fitted into the wall) is an ex-demo, the one on the floor came "new" out of a box......

Where/how can I see their age/software version? 

Have a look at the serial number of each LC2. If the first two digits are equal to 13 or greater, then the problem I described is not the issue. If the LC2's have a serial number of 12 or less, then you almost certainly have the problem I previously described.

Not at home right now, going to have a look this evening.

Thanks

 

Where do I find the serial number, and if needed: how is the refitting/aligning of the dome done?