Hi all,

Currently working on an BG 8000, with a non-dropping tonearm issue. After much ado with getting new drive belts for the tonearm spindle drive, a good lubrication, and performing all the adjustments in the service manual, there is now a voltage across the coil (or so it seemed). There is still no drop of the tonearm!!

At this point a manual push of the solenoid would allow the normal and fully correct operation of the turntable - but I don't want to have to sit with a screwdriver in my hands while balancing the lever to listen!!!!

So, measuring the resistance of the solenoid gave me infinity. Bad news, (should normally be zero).

Out came the solenoid, and it was inspected to find that one of the coil wires (where it emerges from the main coil), was broken before making it to the cable/enamelled? wire connection :(
See pic Below:

 

 

 

C

The Cursour shows the location of the break!
(Apologies for poor screenshot image, I have no image editor on this PC)

So basically, I'm looking for ideas.
Given the macroscopic size of the solenoid itself, and its delicate construction, I'm nervous in attempting a fix. The glue used to insulate, and hold the wires in place is pretty much permenant, and I can't really scrape through it.

Hmmmm.
Thanks for any helpful comments?!?!

Sam

Sam,

Great fault-finding !
I will see if I can find a good solenoid.
Got your PM as well and I will answer that asap.

Martin

Hi,

I'm pretty sure Martin will find you a coil !

This is in fact like a small speaker or microphone without a cone or dome, and I have repaired many, often tweeters, by just pulling one turn of wire and resoldering/reglueing it to the alu foil with special varnish.

But you'll need a 15W iron and a steady hand!

Hi, and thanks for the encouragement for a fix!

Im not expecting to be successful with this, but its worth having a go.
My soldering iron is adjustable, so I'll put it on the lowest temperature to try.

I will report back with results!

Sam:

I will report back with results!

We love pics

I personally think that is repairable Sam, This was quite a challange but quite doable...

Hat of for Olly

Thjought I did ok considering a normal 3mm soldering iron tip was used :-)

Hi guys,

Sorry this reply has taken so long! I completed the fix months ago, but only just got roung to posting :S

Anyway, one turn of wire off, and resoldered OK first time round:

 

but I must have damaged the wire in between soldering (after which I measured the resistance) and installing, So it all had to come back out, get a fresh bit of wire (just some 7x0.12mm I had lying around):

 

 

Yeah, OK, that wire is a bit of overkill, but will do for now.
This beogram is destined for new caps soon (on the to do list) so I can order something better when that all gets done.

Plugged in, test MMC on the arm and test vinyl on the platter. When that arm dropped! Boy did it feel good. Finally!!

 

 

 

Now I have an MMC20CL, but have never listened to it, for lack of a deck worthy of such riches.

So, I can now comment on how crisp and clear this stylus sounds. Definately worth the extra!

It just makes all the instruments have a depth deeper than I've ever heard on vinyl!

(Hope theres enough pics for you guys)

 

Brilliant

Well done, Sam! 

I just knew you could do it!

Congrats!

Just one question: how long does it take for the cartridge to drop?

Wow, thanks for the comments guys!

Chartz - As the arm gets to the correct place on the record, theres a very short (very) before the needle drops. However, it is quite a harsh drop, so I'm hoping a cap replace will assist this?

Theres a bit of elastic in the tonearm spindle, but I have replaced the belt which has semi solved the problem, but a full clean and lubrication will be done when the caps come out.

Cheers!

Sam:

Chartz - As the arm gets to the correct place on the record, theres a very short (very) before the needle drops. However, it is quite a harsh drop, so I'm hoping a cap replace will assist this?

You may want to read this.

 

Interesting. Next time this is open I'll have a play around in there.

Interesting that component replacements can't correct this.
Do you think it has something to do with the leaf spring in the tonearm assembly? It could relax over time and loose some of its pre-stressing. This could give these unsmooth tonearm lowerings.

Just a thought. Please prove me incorrect!