Hi Vintage Enthusiasts:

I am trying to find veneer with the proper grain to fully restore my recently re-capped and re-bulbed (thanks for the bulb set, Martin!) Beomaster 1900. The local stores here in Tampa do not have anything close to that finely grained rosewood or teak that was used on these beauties.

I was wondering if anyone had figured out a reliable source for such veneer, and also what stain brand/shade to combine it with to get that beautiful perfect reddish look.

Thanks much in advance for any advice!

Rudy

Veneer patterns vary a lot (it's nature after all), don't expect all Beomaster 1900s to look the same.
B&O used three or four basic patterns and even within the individual patterns the veneer graining
varies quite a bit.
If you can take - or find a photo of the veneer pattern, you are looking for, we may be able to
help you better.

Martin

Here is a picture of the veneer remnant that I have. The original may look a tad more red than it came out on the pic. Thanks!

Rudy

Looks like teak, check here, the pics on the link is, as I see it, unthreaded veneer, if sanded and oiled (I use boiled linseed oil) it will apear darker.

I agree it looks a bit like teak but if it is in fact a little more red-ish than in the photo, it could be bone dry palisander.

Maybe if you stay away from the heavy and darker areas, this may work:
http://cgi.ebay.de/Palisander-Furnier-SaRaiFo-Fineline-43cm-Breite-PBo43-/260699127423?pt=Holz_Holzwerkstoffe&hash=item3cb2e0fe7f

Grinding, polishing etc., a little palisander oil and it'll be fine, I think.

I did this Beogram 2200 in Rio Palisander a couple of weeks ago. Rio Palisander has a wonderful grain texture
but is not exactly the same as yours (lacking a better photo, but I think you get the texture).

Martin

The sides were both perfect and the front had a 3x2mm chip so I only reveneered the front and
then matched it to the sides.

Martin

Checking my Teak S45 and Palisander BG 2404, I think Martin is right (as always), Palisander=Rosewood, same link as above has it over here.

Dillen:

The sides were both perfect and the front had a 3x2mm chip so I only reveneered the front and
then matched it to the sides.

@Martin, which glue type do you use, I had lose veneer side, and crazy glue did not work.

I use a good contact glue, just not in the "contact" way.
Apply glue to the base and then clamp the veneer on.
Cut, trim, grind, polish and oil the veneer when the glue has fully set.
Make sure to get glue out to the edges or the new veneer will chip again
very easily, you can remove any excess glue afterwards.

Martin

Thank you, Martin

I use 100% wood.
No backing.

I have not bought from the Ebay seller so I cannot tell if he delivers exactly what is shown.
It was just a listing, I came across.
Wood veneer is real wood and, per nature, varies quite a lot from lot to lot and even from tree to tree.
Actually, there is not a palisander tree (though some people call the brazilian rosewood sorts by that name).
Palisander is typically rosewood that has been more or less toned which also means that it comes in
hundreds of variations.
A consistent supply of just one variation is hardly possible but a dealer with a huge selection may come close.

The Beogram had a little palisander oil, that is teak oil with a tiny, almost unnoticable, amount of red color to
all three panels.
Every veneer repair I make is different, but if I remember correct I treated the front strip with an additional tiny
amount of Mr. Sheen (Topps) Scratch Cover (and that must have been the medium wood version), not to cover
scratches but to add a hint of brown to the finish to match the somewhat aged original side panels.
Probably only gave it a few seconds and then wiped away.

Veneer repairs is a whole world of its own. There are no rules and hardly any consistency.

Martin

As Martin, I came across the listing and have not bought from this seller, I posted the link because you are over here and it would be easier for you to get it. As Martin explains, woodworks is a sience and only mastered with trial and test, if you want exactly the same grain and color, you are in for a job where you will have to check several different pieces with your existing, when the grain is found comes the color matching and then the right glue to attach it, Martin recommend a good contact glue, applied only to the piece and not the veneeer, then comes the fitting with sanding and polishing, then oiling or lackering with your color mixture. If you want perfection you are in for a long run.

But remember wood is a beautiful and living material, it change color with time and light, a difference in color or grain will not be seen from people who does'nt look for it, and also if there are small differences between F.eks. sides and front, it does'nt mather, because its wood and not some  fricking platic laminate.

Before you start maching new veneer grind or polish your existing, the color will change and it will help conditioning the wood when finishing and adding the last oil layer, I use for all my wood only cololess linseed oil, it gives a nice silk glans and gets hard enough to withstand normal use, and after a couple of years you can freshen it up again with a light fine sanding and oiling. I never use laquer or, god forbid, polyurethane for indoor wood