Can anyone please recommend someone who can do (and knows) a capacitor renewal on my immaculate Beolink 7000? 

The machine is in the London area and I don't really want to send abroad.

Any help appreciated.

BF7

9 days and no replies? Surely someone (other than Smarties) has the answer?

Might be worth contacting Tim @ Beocentral?

What makes you think it needs recapping?

I seem to remember Die_Bogener did a couple of these.
Do a search in the fora.

Martin

The job is a bit of a pain in the butt, that's one reason why people are keeping their heads down.

Member nobby (Neil Briffett) does repairs so suggest that you contact him by PM. He is in Farnham so not a million miles from you.

If not mistaken, Leslie had a thorough/detailed post on this subject. From what I had the chance to see although it's a time consuming procedure is not a very difficult one.

You have to be very careful with the flatcables and the display. And you have to use special smallsized capacitors, otherwise it will not work. 

I personall would not touch it unless absolutely nescesary.

Step1:

I personall would not touch it unless absolutely nescesary.

You need some skills to do the job!

Check this on my Picasa webalbum. Use the slideshow option! Already did 4 now and I succeed on all 4 BL7000's.

BTW, Link will be blocked after a week. You can download pictures if you're interested, free of charge

I would replace all capacitors in BeoLink 7000. In most cases the other capacitors are also leaking and it is just a matter of time until you have to open the BeoLink 7000 again.

Leslie:

Check this on my Picasa webalbum. Use the slideshow option! Already did 4 now and I succeed on all 4 BL7000's.

It sure would be useful to know the component values as well

tournedos:

Leslie:

Check this on my Picasa webalbum. Use the slideshow option! Already did 4 now and I succeed on all 4 BL7000's.

It sure would be useful to know the component values as well

Don't let me open this thing again

Check picture below from previous BL7000's I've "repaired"

 

Thanks. I hate first opening stuff and then having to go shopping.

Pfff, was afraid for your next question, polarity....

Many thanks for the responses. It does need doing as we are now just one way!!!

Leslie, those photographs are very enlightening and may be of help. I have a friend who is quite good with electrics and has sourced the caps so I am trying to persuade him to have a go at it but it is an immaculate 7000 so I am somewhat worried what I will end up with. You wouldn't want to have a go at it for a reasonable cost would you? 

 

I would do it for free (except for the shipping costs), but no guarantees. I think your friend can do it, it's not that hard. Let me know...

OK I see you are in The Netherlands? I am in Sweden but the unit is in London. I will be there this week and will ask my friend how confident he is and maybe we will take the back off together and get a feel for how difficult it may be. If he feels it may be too much can I come back to you? Any shipping costs of course is no problem. 

Many thanks.

Off course you can! Remember that I can only try to fix the "No Contact" issue.

The picture text is wrong. Please read what's printed on the caps.

The real value for the 2 caps is not 22uf, it is  0,22uF. The "." is difficult to read but it is there...

The black or blue bar is minus for polarity.

And there are some more caps to do. There is another one on the backside of the display and on the keyboard.

It also makes sense to replace or to check the 3.3V lithium cell on the cpu board. They are sometimes leaking.

Die_Bogener:

The picture text is wrong. Please read what's printed on the caps.

The real value for the 2 caps is not 22uf, it is  0,22uF. The "." is difficult to read but it is there...

 

Are you sure Die Bogener? Don't wanna argue with you as an expert but in other threads like this and the other they mentioned 22uF?

And mine worked with the 22uF caps which I have ordered?? Or am I totally mistaken.....

 I can see a dot if I look closely so it must be .22uF but I'm sure I have ordered the 22uF and put them instead

Anyone else who can confirm? I can change the text value on the first posted picture

 

How much is this value 226?

It still works perfect.... Check my other thread

Or this

I used 22 microfarads as well. Worked ok for me.

I used ordinary miniature electrolytics rather than smd types.

Leslie:

How much is this value 226?

22 * 10^6 pF = 22 uF

Anyway, seems I might just as well roll a dice for my shopping list if I want to be done within one evening

tournedos:

Leslie:

How much is this value 226?

22 * 10^6 pF = 22 uF

Anyway, seems I might just as well roll a dice for my shopping list if I want to be done within one evening

Anyway, .22uF is the same as 220nF? I think this size does not fit in the SMD housing as shown in the picture, is it?

So, I can leave the value as it is (on the picture)?

Leslie:

Anyway, .22uF is the same as 220nF? I think this size does not fit in the SMD housing as shown in the picture, is it?

220 nF = 1/100 the capacitance of 22 uF...

The physical size will have as much to do with the voltage rating as the capacitance. Those original SMD cans in the pictures will be good for either 0.22 uF / 63 V or 22 uF / 6.3V - hard to tell from the pictures where a decimal point is and where one isn't...

If they really are 220 nF, I don't understand why electrolytics were chosen to begin with. There might still be a reason.

Leslie:

So, I can leave the value as it is (on the picture)?

I've never seen the originals myself (yet), so my answer is a definite maybe.