Just checked the table and at the end of record play and it shuts itself off but then after 30-45 seconds the platter starts to rotate again and control panel lamp, sensor arm and servo lamp under tone arm become partially lit.

John

John, was this the deck where you got the motor/power connectors mixed up ?
If so, there may be some defective and/or functionally scarred components now.
Check the power switching components on the main board.

Martin

Yes. The SO switch which triggers T1 on the PCB and the power transistor on the chassis should put everything out. Check those first! Also, are you sure there isn't a small screw living its own life, thus creating an episodic short?

Well done on the depth setting by the way! So when you press STOP the arm does spring up all of a sudden then?

Hello,

Yes the arm works as it should but is a little stiff and if I had the other problem fixed with the power not coming back on I would entertain the idea of stripping the arm down and cleaning off the old lubricant and relubircating it. Not sure how to procede with checking out the components as suggested on the main board. All I have is an ohm meter and may be out of my depth for checking those, actually I have been on anything but looking at the mechanical things I can see as possible problems. I do have an extra board from a same style 5513 I can try and see if it works in this table now that I have it working to this point. It might tell me something. Thanks again for responding.

John

Hi John,

Please come back to us, anytime, especially when you've tried that other board!

Good luck with what's coming!

Well, I just replaced the capacitors in the parts board and that fixed the problem of the table not shutting off the power. I guess that Martin was correct that at some point I either must have put a plug in incorrectly and did some damage or it was a previous problem. The only thing I notice now is that the table sounds like it is a little slower than 33 1/3 rpm. It might be that it just needs loosened up a bit after being oiled. One other thing of note is the tone arm seems to be a little tricky about adjusting in the up position it tends to droop. I have adjusted the same screw that is part of what the manaul refers to as the "Lower adjsutment" screw to get the arm more horizontal is there any other adjustment that can be done?

Thanks again for all the encouragement on this forum you are a great group.

John

The speed is adjusted by one of the carbon trimmer potentiometers.

If they're badly oxidized, you can get Cermet replacements from Mouser - Piher PTC10LV type, with the correct resistance value - my notes show 22K x 3, 4.7K x 2. Use 20K or 25K, and 5K substitutes.

Then you'll have to calibrate them in the circuit.

Menahem

Congratulations, well done!

John, are you sure you didn't alter that arm level setting when you adjusted depth?

Otherwise, it may just be stuck half way up!

Yes speed can be adjusted with those trimmers. On my two decks they were fine though.

Well done John, as you are finding out that these decks require a methodical approach and an attention to detail!

Anyway I will stay away as there are enough helping and I think you are on your way to success...

Don't dismiss the service manual for final setup it is very important...

Keep at it and Good luck!

Thank you one and all again. Regarding the trimmers for the speed, I assume there is one for 33 1/3 and one for 45 rpm? If I do at some point want to try an adjustment could someone tell me which trimmer adjusts what? I looked at the service manual but was not sure what I was looking for at, I really am not good at reading schematics.

John

Page 4-1 of the service manual shows a drawing of the pcb with the trimmer locations indicated. The text says what to adjust with what.

Thanks for the reply Graham, my copy of the manual is a photocopy and is not real clear. Could you tell me if the potentiometer in the upper right corner in the drawing is the IR14 for 45rpm and the one below it IR15 for 33 rpm? In my copy the number looks more like a 16 in the top of the drawing.

John

No it is 14! You have the badly scanned service manual it seems...

John,

you're a silver member, so why don't you take a look at the service manuals we have on site? The scan quality varies in them as well (as do the circuit details between various Beogram versions, so take them with a grain of salt unless you find the exact manual for your Beogram model) - but I'm sure you'll find one more readable than that!

Is my scanner any better? The print quality on the manual is not good.

Wow!! It worked.  I impressed myself.

Sorry, I don't know how to resize it. Any mods are welcome to do it for me.

Well done John!

Any photos please?

After all that was said, I think we deserve it!

Hello Jacque,

You do deserve any photos you would like to see, unfortunately the last 2 nights I have been making repairs of a different kind, plumbing which I hate doing. The faucet in the kitchen decided to leak. Unlike electrical problems you end up with a wet mess if you don't get it right. I am pretty good with a camera so what would you like to see, action shots of the turntable possibly?

John

jfrancis:

what would you like to see, action shots of the turntable possibly?

John

Yes, plenty of close-ups and possibly a small video!

Hello Jacques,

I have not forgotten the pictures I just have been pulled away by my teaching at the university and have not been able to get to it. Tomorrow is Saturday here and I will do it then. Sorry I don't have a video camera but you might have been joking anyway.

John

Well I had good intentions to get some photos on the forum of the table that I have been working on but I am now having some mechanical issues with the tone arm rising all the way to the horizontal after playing. It rises part way to the horizontal position but goes not further. I can manually push it back up so it may mean some work with adjustment and hopefully not a tear down to clean up the old lubricant.

Hopefully I will work this out soon, I am so close.

John

Hi John. You know what to do, don't you? Yes, yes it is a pain to do but then you know I'm right!

Be brave and go ahead!

Hello Jacques,

I am afraid my friend you are correct, but I do fear this teardown. You supplied an exploded view of the tone arm/sensor assembly earlier in a post, can you tell me where I need to start first, it is the lifting arm (part 220) that is the problem I think. Should I remove the adjustment bushing (part 236 in the manual) on the right side to start?

John

Hi,

There is no need to remove anything before doing it.

Just follow the procedure I give in both posts (on page 2 here you'll find the link to the other one) just being careful of those thin wires!

Patience and the circlip tool (quite cheap, can't do without) will lead to success I'm sure, provided you haven't touched any other setting that is... If so you will probably have to adjust again... back to the old settings!

For me it was indeed arm 220 and arm 193 as well. Don't touch part 236!

Hello Jacques,

I was looking for screws on the side of the assembly and did not realize that it was the top two to the left of the sensor arm, so I think I have got that now. Regarding a circlip tool, I will probably need to get that from an online source since Boise, Idaho does not have that many options. Can someone reccomend a source or a specification I should be looking for regarding the correct size tool I would need to remove the circlip?

Regards,

John