Sunday I got to at last, dismantle and start changing caps and lamps, testing before there was missing Bass light, green bars on the right side and stereo light. opened it up and today Monday I could finish, got lamp and cap kit from Martin, as always the best, but missing 2 caps 220 MF, but got them at Sterens, now I got all the lights, but the Bass linear poti not working, will open again and check, probably the spring connection, I hope to find a way to repair it. H ere a pics from the disemboweled 2400.The lamps sections finished and clean. 12132010052.jpg

As I didnt have any bass function I took it apart again, the Bas slider is soldered at 10 points to the command panel, after desoldering its only to press the 4 plastic clips and it comes out easy, on the pic here you can see at the lower part of the slider a small black diagonal line, its one of the pieces that was broken, these small pieces is holding the 2 contact springs in place, i cleaned everything very carefully and glued the contact springs in place with Super Glue, its working now, but the question is how long.

The whole assamply looks like this,the flaps comes out easy, small screwdriver between copper clip and slider, lever it out and its comes free.

Put it in again, the lower one is the bass slider

If you ever start repairing or changing caps on the main board, be aware, its crowded and high caps wont fit, but Martin supplies the right ones.

And here at last my beautiful Beogram 2400 type 2902 playing FM 92.5, oldies but goldies, preselect 1, all lights working, I love it.

Next on is my BM 901, you can see it below my BM 2400.

 

Just a Follow up.

When I finished the 6500 I could hear that the BM 2400 wasn't quite right, nothing I could put my finger on, but with the same speakers connected, as connected to the BM 6500, the sound was not as clean and clear.

Eugene gave me some good advise. The power bridge in the entrance was changed to 6 A 600 V, I found one forgotten cap and a solder point that made a short on the PCB 2, and someone had tried to repair this with a wire on the solder side of the same PCB, took away the wire, fixed the solder point, changed the cap. Again after Eugene's good advice, I checked and addjusted the 15 V supply, and the 12 mV to the right and left channel, addjusted the 4,5 and 4,6 V on the command board as well, tested at low volume and checked frequently the heat on the R/L heat bodies, they kept their cool and after putting on some volume they got a little warmer than my hand, and the sound now improved to nearly BM 6500 level.

Thank you Eugene

Søren Mexico:

Thank you Eugene

I must admit that it is rather heartening to follow Eugene's as well as your work!

Nice to have people on this side of the pond taking care of business!

burantek:

Søren Mexico:

Thank you Eugene

I must admit that it is rather heartening to follow Eugene's as well as your work!

Nice to have people on this side of the pond taking care of business!

I think Eugene is a little shy , she send me a PM with instructions, but good advise has to be public, and the glory to whom deserve it, I'm a totally novice and only with the help of this forum I got going with my objects, and now there is no turning back.