Something that may be worth thinking about is printable water-slide decal paper. Similar to the decals we used to get with Airfix models (and other makes).

See here or here

A quick google threw those pages up but I thought if you printed the black lettering/logo then transferred it on and then put a couple of clear coats over the top of the whole resprayed section you should get a passable finish that would be fairly hard wearing. (more so than just applying the decal direct with no clear coat).

Just a thought :o)

Stoobie

I agree that the inner display frame should be left alone. Beo4 no. 2 looks great without white frame except the lines down either side they are too much I think - white is best.

I would also cover up the text even though the control would look a little top heavy. Only other little niggle I have is the black bit between the arrows..

The link 1000 looks soo good I might paint mine! Trying to figure out if it would be going a little too far to paint the lower plate white too?

Oh heck had to play with PSP before posting - Hope you don't mind me using your picture Leslie!

Not at all, in fact I was thinking about letting somebody doing some airbrushing on one of my remotes. Sometimes you see those wonderfull art looking pictures on trucks/motorbikes. Just a thought

You could pull it off, IMO it would have to be a clever design, contemporary (no camouflage patterns!) and ideally quite simple.

Maybe a Burberry or Louis vuitton pattern

What is the orginal finish on the BL1000? Is it powder coating? Im now in charge of  the paintshop at work, and do all the powder coating. If it is, I can also remove the old powder too. As we have stripping equipment too.

Craig

Hi Craig, that would be a great idea to powdercoat on these. Any available color?

So you could do all the others e.g. scratched covers Beosystem 3500/4500 as well?

Leslie

Leslie:

Hi Craig, that would be a great idea to powdercoat on these. Any available color?

So you could do all the others e.g. scratched covers Beosystem 3500/4500 as well?

Leslie

In theory yes. Not sure how I would be able to jig the panel. If I just lie it on another earthed panel. Should it ark, which it can at 25-100KV. It could damage the panel. Im limited in colours to what we have in stock. We probably have around 50 colours. Going to try a white and black version as trial ones. There is a Blue colour I think would look good. Looking into doing another B&O item with that (Keeping what secret for now). We have a few different Silvers, but non that would stand out from the original. Not seen any other colour yet that would work.

Craig

By chance I have just found the silver part of a BL1000 in the Kitchen. Can't decide if it is powder coated, or an electroplated finish. Looks a bit to fine to be powder coated. Either way, at 6:00 tomorrow morning it's spending at least 5 hours in a caustic bath. Should have a picture of the finished item to post up tomorrow evening. Think ill do a black one. Going the check the list of colours we have, against the colour chart. If I find something which I think may work, you never know.

Craig

Can't wait

Took 2 Beolink 1000 top panels to work today. Left them in the caustic tank for several hours, it did start to etch the metal a bit. So Cleaned them up with a Scotchbrite mop. Had a quick go at polishing one to a mirror finish, but it was not going to work. Because of the shape of the remote, I was having to use that much pressure to catch all 3 faces. It was starting to drag the holes for the buttons. Should have a powder coated example ready for Monday.

Craig

Polished would be great if possible did it actually start to look mirrored like aluminium would though?

Can't wait to see the results :)

Step1:

Polished would be great if possible did it actually start to look mirrored like aluminium would though?

Can't wait to see the results :)

Yes it did, I can get a mirror finish on most surfaces. Where the problem lies is in the shape of a BL1000. If you look at the silver section end on, you can see it is shaped. This in effect gives you 3 surfaces which need to polished. Because the polishing wheels we have are about 50mm wide. You cannot catch all 3 surfaces at the same time. Unless you use a lot of pressure. This is where the problem starts. As the polishing compund is abrasive, it works by removing some of the metal. What was happening is that as the wheel catches the edges, where the buttons would be. It drags the hole, and rounds off the edge. What I really need is a much thinner wheel.

Craig

I have polished one to a mirror finish as an experiment (both the button plate & the battery cover).

I left it open to the atmosphere and it quickly started to tarnish which was a shame (Craig is right - preventing the button holes from rounding off is a real problem). These top plates aren't cast aluminium but an alloy of some sort. I still have it somewhere and plan on having it chrome or nickel plated at some point.

Chris.

Medogsfat:

I left it open to the atmosphere and it quickly started to tarnish which was a shame

To prevent this all you need is a coat of clear lacquer. Any car spares place should have some.

Craig

Polished...??  Pictures please.

Craig:

Medogsfat:

I left it open to the atmosphere and it quickly started to tarnish which was a shame

 

To prevent this all you need is a coat of clear lacquer. Any car spares place should have some.

 

Craig

 

I know Craig but the problem is the durability of these lacquers, I suspect the coating would quickly become a bit tired & lose the high gloss finish. I think chrome/nickel plating would be soooo much better in the long run.

Chris.

Chris.

Medogsfat:

I know Craig but the problem is the durability of these lacquers, I suspect the coating would quickly become a bit tired & lose the high gloss finish. I think chrome/nickel plating would be soooo much better in the long run.

Chris.

Chris.

Think I need to have a chat with plating shop at work tomorrow They have a simulated chrome finish, that requires a mirror finish underneath. They also have a brass which is the same. There are a few others they do too.

Craig

Well as promised some pictures for you. Here is the one I powder coated white.

Picture of just the white part.....

The assembled remote.....

Craig

White is suprisingly difficult to photograph so you can really assess the result, but seems like that one would look really nice in person, Craig!

I'll seriously consider making one myself as the regular BL 1000 looks really boring to me nowadays.

Looks great Craig, what about the rest? It would be a challenge to try a complete different color other then black, grey or white. What about dark blue, red or yellow in glossy.  

I am sure b&o use to publicise the fact these controls were made of some sort of zinc alloy or similar. Not sure that helps though!

Looks good Craig. Were you not tempted to do the bottom plate too?

Leslie:

Looks great Craig, what about the rest? It would be a challenge to try a complete different color other then black, grey or white. What about dark blue, red or yellow in glossy.  

Well I did try a Green one as I had to do some jobs in that Colour. It had a bit of an accident in the oven though. So I need to strip it, and try again. At least I now know how to jig them up.

Craig

Step1:

I am sure b&o use to publicise the fact these controls were made of some sort of zinc alloy or similar. Not sure that helps though!

The body is (at least that should advice to not drop it in HCl ). But the top plate is definitely aluminum in Beo4, not quite sure of the BL1000.