I've just bought something off eBay which I hope will be a bargain...  it's a complete Beomaster 5000 system that I got for just over £50.

Obviously for that price it's not fully functioning but the faults seem to be mechanical rather than electrical so I'm fairly confident I might be able to get it going again with the help of some expert advice and almost certainly one or two of Martin's special kits.

The amp seems to work fine - I've hooked up some speakers to it (X25s that I had left over from my abortive purchase of a Beomaster 2200 - I know everyone says they're terrible but they work well enough to test with) and my digital radio via a phono lead and the BBC is playing away quite merrily through it.

As for everything else, well, it's like this...

BeoGram CD50: drawer mechanism doesn't seem to be functioning - there's a noise of something straining and nothing happens so I shut the power off.  Took the cover off and there's what looks to be remains of a drive belt in the white plastic cogs at the back.  So would buying a drive belt kit from Martin solve this?

BeoCord 5000: the drawer is loose and slides out when tipped, and the motorised action doesn’t work. Cassettes won’t play - again, would this be fixable by buying a new drive belt from Martin?

BeoGram 5000: There's an MMC4 cartridge with it that appears OK, and plays OK (if I'm right, is that worth the £50 on its own?) but the turntable makes a grating sound as it rotates.  I've had a tinker with the transport screws and rim brakes but that's not helped.  The drive belt seems fine.  Not quite sure what to try next.

There are also some BeoVox S55 speakers with it, that look in need of skilled help to me - or help more skilled than me, anyway.  There is obvious perishing of the baffles surrounding the bass drivers (I know that replacements can be sourced online for those, I've already got a pair of S45-2s that I'm meaning to get round to re-foaming) but one of the mid range units has been damaged as well.  I'm thinking about giving those away to be honest.

Anyway, as ever, all advice welcomed - including 'you might as well give up now and pay someone to take a look'!

Mechanically I'm not bad but when it comes to anything electrical I've never attempted anything much more complex than wiring a plug...

Nice system - well worth £50.

1. Belt for the CD50 clearly needed but these are temperamental machines - I will be surprised if this works!

2. BC5000 - New belts again - much more likely to work!

3. May need the springs playing with. A little bend upwards wouldn't hurt! See if you can work out where the impact point is. Well worth fixing - a superb deck.

Is the S45-2 the ones I gave you? They have rubber surrounds so should not need refoaming. The phase link unit is heavily doped but are normally fine so I am surprised they need any more attention than new capacitors. These are superb speakers and are always worth fixing - in my view better sounding than S55s.

Certainly try changing belts - even I can do that! - but don't be too surprised if the CD50 needs more work. 

Thanks Peter - yes, the sound on the record deck seems amazing to my untrained ears, even with the turntable scrape...  it's a little bit discoloured and the perspex is a little scarred but I seem to remember reading on here that WD40 is good for cleaning the aluminium and Brasso does a good job of sorting out the perspex?

I might have a go at the springs tomorrow.

The speakers I'm meaning to refoam are S45s that I bought off eBay a few months back - they're teak ones, as opposed to the rosewood S45s you gave me which still sound fantastic. 

I got the teak S45s so they'd match the Beomaster 2400 and Beogram 2402 you gave me... now I think I'll pair the rosewood S45s with the 5000 system if I get round to the refoaming.

Hey, the master control panel works and everything!

It is just about the biggest remote control in the world ever, though...  would it be possible to control it using a Beo4 or a Beolink 1000 instead, or are they different systems?

DrewSavage:

It is just about the biggest remote control in the world ever, though...  would it be possible to control it using a Beo4 or a Beolink 1000 instead, or are they different systems?

Completely different, unfortunately. Look for a Terminal 5000 if you want a hand held remote for the system (I think I just saw a member selling one in the sales section - I need one too, but not that much ).

There used to be a converter product that allowed using Beolink 1000 compatible remotes, but fat chance finding it anywhere...

tournedos:

DrewSavage:

It is just about the biggest remote control in the world ever, though...  would it be possible to control it using a Beo4 or a Beolink 1000 instead, or are they different systems?

Completely different, unfortunately. Look for a Terminal 5000 if you want a hand held remote for the system (I think I just saw a member selling one in the sales section - I need one too, but not that much ).

There used to be a converter product that allowed using Beolink 1000 compatible remotes, but fat chance finding it anywhere...

Cheers!  Yes, I agree... I've got a spare Beo4 at the moment and Beolink 1000s seem to be pretty cheap on eBay so I was really looking for a quick and easy solution.  A Terminal 5000 would be handy if one fell into my lap but at the moment I think it makes just as much sense to either use the master control panel or just walk across the room to the unit.  Particularly considering the size of my new flat...

Re:- the scraping turntable. Are the transport screws fully released?

Chris.

PS, am I right in assuming this was the "Last chance" ebay sale that was going to the tip if no one bought it?

There's a terminal 5000 on ebay UK at present.

I'll limit my input to what I've worked on and know well:

1. The BM5000 - definitely replace the bias trimpots, if nothing else - that will help prevent catastrophical problems in the future. And adjust the bias currents.

If you're feeling adventurous, browse this - it may give you incentive to get started!

http://www.condoraudio.com/wp-content/uploads/Projects/BeoMaster-5000-Receiver-Restoration-Repair.pdf

2. The BC5000 - a top quality deck - start with the belts. It's not a big deal if the unit rolls out of the casing - the drawer belt is shot, but you can pull the drawer out, and push it in manually, with no technical worries at all. Of course a good cap kit will do wonders for the sound. If after the belts, there are still problems, get back to us, and I'll help you troubleshoot more!

Menahem

Medogsfat:

Re:- the scraping turntable. Are the transport screws fully released?

Chris.

PS, am I right in assuming this was the "Last chance" ebay sale that was going to the tip if no one bought it?

There's a terminal 5000 on ebay UK at present.

Spot on about the last chance - and cheers for the heads-up!

I've double-checked the transport screws and had a bit of an upward bend of the springs and the turntable seems to be floating perfectly.  Putting my ear to the unit, it seems that the scraping noise is coming from the front left, where the drive belt goes from the turntable and vanishes under the casing.

Could it be as simple as something in there needing lubricating in some way?  And if so, is it easy to get the casing off without making everything go horribly wrong?

I'd still put the scraping sound down to the platter height not being correctly adjusted. There isn't really anything that could cause this near the motor assembly (unless the pully has worked its way up/down the motor shaft which is pretty unlikely, not impossible though as it is a push fit).

When adjusted to the correct height the platter top surface should sit approx' 2mm proud of the aluminium surround.

Chris.

Access to the internals is fairly easy & is gained by removing the aluminium top plate/platter surround. There are 2 screws underneath to the left & right hand sides of the front edge to remove which allows you to remove the top plate. You must remove the platter first & take care not to damage the tonearm (which goes without saying). There is also the start switch to look out for which is simply slotted into the front facia on the right hand side - there is also a multiplug to pull for the control buttons. The top plate comes off by lifting the front edge & pulling slightly forward to release where it sits under the lid hinge at the rear.