Does anyone know which TVs currently on the market are compatible with the BeoSystem 1? My understanding is that it's not enough for a screen to merely have a PC input but that the PC input must also support H & V sync. Is that the case? Walking into Best Buy and trying to explain this to the salespeople only results in a blank stare of confusion.

Walking in to Best Buy and trying to explain anything results in a blank stare of confusion!

LOL. Exactly!

What happens if the TV is without H/V sync? My Beosystem 1 is plugged into a Panasonic TH46 PZ800 via PC input, and the screen seem to jump up and down even though the picture is very clear (so all it does is have small vertical jumps) and I wonder if it's because of a missing H/V sync?

I'm still searching for a screen. Has anyone had success with recent t.v. models being compatible with the BeoSystem 1?

I have a BS1 connected to one of the new 2009 Samsung series 7 LEDs.  However, I only use the PC out of the BS1 to connect to the Samsung for menu navigation and setup purposes, for which it works just fine.  I use the BS1 for audio switching purposes to give surround sound.  I also have my BC9500 connected to it through a Beolink Converter.

So, basically I have the optical out from my PS3 connected to the DVD optical in on the BS1, and then I have the optical out from the TV connected to the BS1 on a different input for the other sources connected to the TV (my Wii, the cable broadcase, etc).

I really think using the PC out of the BS1 which is 1080i at best will be a degredation in quality, and I didn't want to fiddle around with the PC settings on the TV just for this when I don't really need it.  

I fully recommend the Samsungs....I can watch even regular definition DVDs on the PS3 and the picture looks almost freakishly realisitic compared to my Sharp Aquos 1080p set.

What did you have in mind with your BS1?

I was actually considering the Samsungs. As I understand, either screen control code 467 or 468 on the BS1 will control the on/off of the Samsung screen. Is that correct? So the current Samsungs can accept the 1080i resolution via PC input with the horizonal/vertical hold? I know that some screens (such as Sony's) have a PC input, but the input will not accept 1080i resolution. I'm actually okay with 1080i instead of 1080p. I'd rather have the menu overlay of the BS1 than have the 1080p resolution.

BTW, I have a BeoSystem 3 connecte to a projector in my main room and an Avant as the bedroom tv. The BeoSystem 1 is currently being unused. I would like to use it in my home gym. Therefore, 1080p isn't as important for me. I'm okay with 1080i and even a screen 40" or smaller.

Can't speak to models that have the ability to control the screen's power, but pretty much any television screen with a VGA will do the job. We're doing a setup right now with a bunch of 12" monitors attached to BeoSystem 1s and it works fine.

I will see if I can get some time to plug in a Y/B/R source to the BS1 and play around with this. 

Thanks, macjonny. Also, are you able to control the on/off of the Samsung screen with the BS1?

I now have my BS1 connected to a Sony screen (which I plan on replacing). The BS1 will control the on/off; however, the Sony screen does not accept the 1080i resolution through it's PC input. Not all screens can accept the BS1's signal through the PC input.

I'm starting to think that your solution of bypassing the BS1 for video and using an HDMI connection might be best. Certainly for Apple TV, which does not need the menu overlay. In fact, if one used an HDMI switch that can learn IR codes, the BS1 could be used to automatically switch the IR inputs using it's Zektor codes.

beojeff,

I haven't played around with the Beo4 remote too much but there are lots of threads on the Zektor switch and using the Beo4 as a universal remote, etc.  

For me, I just don't have the time to play around that much and have been content to have a couple of remotes for the TV and the BS1 separate.  Basically now I just use the Beo4 to switch between my two audio sources (PS3 and TV) and the volume.  

If you are hooking up Apple TV you are going to have the extra apple remote anyway and I really would consider just using the BS1 for audio...

Actually, the BS1 has the Apple Remote in it's code-coverter PUC list and controls the Apple TV beautifully. It really is nice to have the BS1 automatically turn the tv on and off. It works perfectly with my Sony LCD. I believe that the codes for the Samsung screen are 467 or 468. The Supported Product Master List for the BS1 indicates that code 468 adds extra time for the stand by command. The list has codes 467 and 468 for the Samsung DLP rear projection tvs, but Samsung usually keeps the same on/off IR code for all of its tvs. You might be interested in trying to have the BS1 control your Samsung screen. You just go into the service menu. (MENU, 0, 0, GO -- I think - or some combination of those) and enter the code 467 or 468 where indicated in the screen setup. One of the beautiful things about B&O is how everything can be done with one touch of the Beo4 -- when setup with devices that B&O has in its PUC.

I have two Zektor component switches that I've used for my BS1 and my Avant. They work very well. I think the same Zektor codes could easily be used to switch an HDMI switcher that can learn IR codes.

I hooked up a camcorder to V.tape and got it to work, had a black bar on the side but I'm sure that can be corrected.  The screen was not jumpy or anything like that.  I don't have any hi-def sources to try that would use the Y/B/R connection on top.  The curtains worked and everything.

I tried the code entered in the service menu under the monitor settings  and when I push the red power button it did not turn the TV off.  So, I'm not sure what that is all about or if I did it right....

The samsungs have a PC setting where it seems that almost any video resolution is supported.  Check the manual.  Seems to work fine from my end so far though...

Thanks. That really worries me about the  BS1 not turning the screen off. Did you have an IR flasher going from the "projector control" on the back of the BS1 and the flasher end of the cable pretty close to the IR receiving eye of the Samsung screen?

Well don't get worried just yet because I didn't have it set up right!  Excuse my ignorance because this is a new unit for me (purchased about 1.5 months ago) so I haven't even begun to play with it much.  Can you tell me what kind of product to get (maybe an amazon link to one that would work) and will pick one up?

I figured maybe somehow putting in the code would tell the Beo4 to output the signal but obviously I was wrong!

Ah! So maybe it WILL work. One of the great things about the BS1 is that is can control peripheral devices by taking the code from the Beo4, converting it to the codes used for the devices (such as blu-ray player, dvd, apple tv, tv, etc.), and sending the code through a cable "IR flasher" to control the device. A nice benefit of this is that it allows you to hide away the devices in a cabinet and still have them controlled. That's what the mini-RCA plugs labeled "control" on the back of the BS1 are for. With a wall-mounted plasma/lcd it's a bit tricky to run the IR flasher cable inside the wall and tape it discretely to the IR eye on the tv.

The IR flasher cables are rather inexpensive. About $10. I use the Niles brand, which can be found at Ovation. Here is an Amazon link to what you need:

http://www.amazon.com/Niles-Audio-MF1-Micro-Flasher/dp/B0001VQEYO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1267454029&sr=8-4

If you need to extend the length, you just use a mini-RCA cable (male on one end and female on the other) as an extension cable. It's the same type of cable that you would use to extend the length for headphones to connect to an ipod.

A nice benefit of having the BS1 control everything is that the BS1 logically turns the tv on whenever any video device is selected. It will turn on that particular device and automatically turn it off whenever you hit standby (the red dot on the beo4) or switch to another device. It will also automatically turn off the video device and the tv whenever you select an audio source (such as cd, radio, a.tape, n.music, etc.).

I think you'll find that you'll have a more elegant B&O setup once you take advantage of the BS1's ability to control everything.

I would suggest you not buy any TV and connect to the Beosystem 1 because no matter who makes it you are sending a processed signal to a TV with some form of built in processor.  You only want to use a monitor for the best results.  You can Pick up a 50" Panasonic for about $1675 on Ebay or other on line stores.  Then you will have your best set up and you will have the same screen B&O uses and sells for more than $7000.00

http://cgi.ebay.com/Panasonic-TH-50PH12UK-50-Plasma-Monitor-50PH12UK-11UK_W0QQitemZ110292049821QQcmdZViewItemQQptZTelevisions?hash=item19adeb1f9d#ht_2934wt_1147

As I stated above you can setup the Samsung to act as a "monitor" under the PC setting where the image processing is turned off. 

Personally, I would rather have an LED based LCD any day over those thick power hungry Plasmas.

macjonny,

Just thought I would update you on my progress. I still haven't selected a new tv screen yet. I did, however, buy and connect a new blu-ray player to the BS1. I've connected the Samsung BD-P1590. The BS1 can power up the blu-ray player and has full control with the exception of turning the player off and pausing playback. 

Also, today I purchased and connected a Monster HDMI switcher. This particular switcher is capable of learning IR commands to switch the HDMI source. By telling the BS1 that a Zektor switcher was connected, I was able to "teach" the Monster HDMI switcher the Zektor codes which the BS1 uses to automatically switch the video source on the Zektor switcher. Now, I'm able to have the BS1 automatically switch to the appropriate HDMI source. The Monster Switcher is the only HDMI switcher with IR learning capability that I found to be reasonably priced. (It can be found for around $60 on Amazon and the Ovation websites.)

Like you, I'm finding that I prefer using the HDMI connection - even though I lose the BS1's menu overlay. This is irrelevant for the Apple TV, but for the blu-ray player it requires memorizes what some of the corresponding Beo4 commands are.

I'm interested to hear if you've been able to use the BS1 to control the Samsung TV's on/off without any problem. The fact the the BS1 does not power off my Samsung blu-ray player causes me to be concerned that Samsung may have changed it's "off" codes. (BTW, the BS1 is turning my current Sony tv on and off perfectly.)

Beojeff,

Thanks for the update.  I haven't pursued getting the flasher like we talked about as I have been very busy with a new baby at home and no time to even watch TV!  I was, however, looking at the Harmony 1100 remote that has codes to control just about anything including B&O stuff and a PS3 with an additional adapter.  I know people have a fondness for the Beo4 and it is a fine remote (I have 2 of them) but I'm not set on having everything B&O.  Have you thought about something like this?  It supposedly has codes for the BS1, and just about everything!

I once dated someone with a Harmony remote. The Harmony remote is a fine universal remote. However, I felt that it just couldn't compare with the elegance of a Beo4 or Beo5 used with a perfectly integrated B&O system. For me, the Beo4 is ideal for the B&O setup in my home gym. It's nice to be able to grab the Beo4 with one hand and use it without needing to even look at the buttons while doing cardio. The layout of the buttons on the Beo4 is more streamlined and logical than any other remote I've encountered (with the exception of the Apple TV remote).

Whichever route you go, it's useful to know that the Monster HDMI switcher can be automatically controlled by the BS1. The IR flasher for the Monster switcher will be connected to the V.Aux control socket on the back of the BS1. Also, the automatic on/off control of the TV via the BS1 is nice because it will power down the tv whenever you choose an audio source.

Along with the Avant in the bedroom and the BeoSystem 3 in the living room, I have the BeoSystem 1 in the gym connected via masterlink. This gives me complete control over the BeoCenter 2 and the BeoSound 5 that are in the living room.

Beojeff,

I actually have been searching for Blu-ray players that are compatible with the BS1. I tried the Samsung BD-P3600 and BD-P1600 and had no luck (screen flutters; B&O says it is a compatability problem with new Samsung players). How is your Samsung BD-P1590 hooked up to the BS1 (I have to use components through the zektor switch)? Also, what PUC in the BeoSytem 1 did you use that worked with the Samsung BD-P1590?

I am also curious how you hooked the Monster HDMI switch to the BeoSystem 1. I would love to have the option of all my components going through HDMI instead of component. Thanks,

Diggs

I would stay clear of any Samsung blu-ray player. I recently bought a newer model Samsung and had the exact same problem that you described. The older models have a very slow start-up time, which creates another problem entirely with the BeoSystem "giving up" on trying to detect the video signal and going into "video mute" mode until you switch to another input and then switch back. That being said, my older model Samsung blu-ray is connected to an Avant via s-video cable for the Avant and also component to the Avant for the connected Runco projector. There is only one Samsung blu-ray PUC. It's listed as "Samsung BD-P1000." If it doesn't appear, you might need a software update to update the PUC. The current Avant/BeoSystem 1 PUC has a controller for the Samsung, Sony, and Panasonic blu-ray players. There is only once PUC code for each brand. I, too, am looking for a more compatible blu-ray player. I've heard that the Panasonic has a very fast start-up time and has Netflix. Oh, one more thing, the rather cryptic "transport mode" (green beo4 button) command on the menu overlay is used to switch from using the Beo4 arrow buttons for blu-ray menu navigation to fast-forward, reverse, chapter up, and chapter down navigation through the movie. You use the red beo4 button ("PupUp Menu") to switch back to menu navigation.

The Monster HDMI switch can learn remote codes. Therefore, you can teach it to react to the Zektor switch codes sent from the BeoSystem 1. You connect an IR blaster from the AUX CONTROL port on the back of the BeoSystem 1 and place the other end of the IR blaster in front of the IR eye of the Monster switch box. You have to follow the instructions for the Monster switch to program it to learn the IR codes sent from the BeoSystem 1. Also, don't forget to select "Zector" (B&O has misspelled it) for the SWITCH under EXTERNAL SOURCES in the BS1 menu. I purchased a BeoVision 4 to connect to my BeoSystem 1 so I no longer use the HDMI.

Hi Beojeff,

I have been reading this thread with interest as if I purchase a used BV7-40 MK2 then I will need to connect the B&O HDMI expander (Gefen) which are very pricey, it sounds like the monster is a perfect replacement as it could learn the Gefen IR codes.

Do you have the model number?

Regard Simon