Hello, first of all I would like to say that as a Newbie to this site I must say that it is a real pleasure to be able to join such a well run site that upon joining seems to be extremely friendly and helpful. I have had many turntables over the years and just recently bought my first B & O table a 4200 that appeared in great shape! Unfortunately upon getting it home and plugging it in nothing seems to power up? I realize this may be a dumb question? but this is one table I would like to take the causious approach with! as I would rather be safe then sorry and not tinker with it until I rule some thinks out.Now other then plugging it in, and hitting the start button is there anything else that I am missing? Do these have a fuse inside or anything else that might be gone that would stop the unit from powering up?? Or could it just be dirty sensors on the start button???? As well any help on removing the platter and getting access to the internals would be greatly appreciated. In advance I must apologize if this has been covered before but after reading many posts I couldn't find any solutions or insight to my issue. Any help and tips would be greatly appreciated as I need some kind of starting point. thanks Daren

Hi & welcom to beoworld

Could you please confirm the model of turntable? There was no model manufactured called a Beogram 4200 so I suspect it is a 4002.

If it is a 4002 then the wooden trim pulls forward by about 10mm which allows you to remove the platter surround which is held by locating pins to slotted holes in the trim. And yes there is an internal fuse but this may indicate further problems if it has blown

 

Chris.

Hi Chris, many thanks for the reply yes you are correct it was a typo on my part it is indeed a 4002! I pulled out the wooden trim as you suggested and will see if I can remove the platter etc.I was at an auction on the weekend where there was a complete system including the 8000 amp, I think the 9000 tape deck, tuner etc and the matching turntable. Unfortunately all the speaker surrounds were going to need replacing so I didn't go as high as I probably should have, as storing the speakers till I was able to fix them or have them fixed would be a problem as they were quite large. Anyway sorry to run on but on day 2 of the sale the auctioneer told me they found another tt in the attic which is the one I bought. I assume now that it just quick working and more then likely the guy just bought another one? or he may have had 2 hooked up originally and just stored the second one? I appreciated your help, and I understand about the fuse it is never good to replace a cooked fuse in most gear but with this it may be my only option at this time? are the push down buttons ever an issue? It just seems like its not getting power. many thanks Daren

Hi Daren,

if you have any problems with further disassembly take a look at this thread.

These are fairly complex machines electronically, so there can be a multitude of problems causing it to play dead - but check the fuse first, it's easy. You should have a red LED lighting under the front of the deck if it gets power at all.

BTW did you notice the main power switch in the rear? That problem would be even easier to fix

tournedos:

BTW did you notice the main power switch in the rear? That problem would be even easier to fix

Good thinking Mika!

If you want I will move this thread to the Beogram section where it will probably get you better answers and won't fall off the end of the page which is likely to happen in a day or so in the General section.

Chris.

Hi Guys, thanks for your quick replies and answers. I have got the unit apart as I do have some keen mechanical sense. The small fuse on the right is blown,not sure what could cause this but when I removed it the metal end came right off which may be nothing but I thought I would mention it. As far as a switch at the back I am not sure this unit ever had one but I did notice a spot on the right hand side which appeared to be a spot which may have had a switch or something there just under the wood section. It appears to have been covered over at the factory with some sort of very thin professional tape or something as it is near invisible until very close inspection?? I will try and track down that fuse I guess and see what happens? As well Chris if you want to move the thread by all means as a Newbie I was unsure where the best spot would be to post my questions but have since found a wealth of info on the site. I have lubed many of the points mentioned on a post well I have it apart I thought it couldn't hurt. I must say a great piece of design work and you got to love the way it gives you quick and easy access to the internals which at first glance looks like a very complicated endevour! I have always been a great fan of Danish design as I have multiple pieces of the furniture, they just got it right all a round it seems! Maybe the version I have of the 4002 was slightly different for the north american or Canadian market. as after double checking there appears to have never been any switch on this unit on the back, would there have been different versions as far as the switch goes?????? many thanks Daren

Mine don't have switches either so don't worry about it! We do have most of the 4002 service manuals on site if you join as a silver member. These are lovely decks - better made than the 8000 you missed! You could just change the fuse - it may be that it had just broken but on the whole, the fuse blew for a reason! Worth a try though! The types differed slightly for different markets but in the case of the 4002, this will just be the power transformer. There are two very different types of 4002 though - one with an AC motor and one with a DC motor. The AC motor types are earlier and more complicated - recognised by some huge capacitors under the platter!

Hi Peter, thanks! there is 1 4" long grey metal cap that says 1000uf on it but only 1 .I may have trouble tracking that fuse down around here but I know I have thousands of fuses and parts as I just cleaned out an estate of an old audio repair shop guy and have boxes and boxes of parts for just about everything except B & O tables unfortunately. Our place is listed for sale ( its a church actually) and I just packed up most of that stuff for storage and that included a huge commercial box of fuses all sizes ( just my luck) I might be able to find the exact box otherwise I will hit one of the chain type stores. its a .25 so will see how hard it is to find. the belt and needle are OK so I will have my fingers crossed. Thanks for the info on the other tt it makes me feel better! It was too bad about the speakers as the tuner and amp would have been great to have with my Rosewood Danish furniture. Cheers Daren

movingcoilguy:

Hi Peter, thanks! there is 1 4" long grey metal cap that says 1000uf on it but only 1 .

You probably have one of the later DC motored models then.

Since the fuse disintegrated in your hands, it may have been mechanically faulty and snapped the fuse wire during transport or something. I would just try a new fuse - but only the correct rating, and only once! If it blows as well, we need to find the cause. Any good electronics store should have those fuses if you don't find one in your stash.

When you replace it, look for the power indicator LED before trying to start the turntable. If it remains on after you plug in the mains, it will help to isolate the problem - if there indeed is any - a little.

OK, well that is good too know, thanks again MIKA and Peter for all the tips ! I will keep you posted on the outcome once I source a fuse. many thanks Daren

I note your user name by the way. Did you know that the cartridges used in the B&O range are neither moving magnet or moving coil? They are similar to the Decca range, being Moving Iron with both fixed magnets and coils. The huge advantage is a tiny effective tip mass as all the stylus moves is the cantilever and the Moving Micro Cross.

Hello, Peter I didn't know that about the B & O cartridges but it makes sense as they are extremely small. One more dumb question if I may? The store as I suspected didn't have the exact match , I believe it was a .25 that I needed the closest I could get was .31 and I thought that would be close enough but thought I would run it by you or Mika before I took the plundge. Daren

315 mA vs. 250 mA is not a big difference, normal fuses aren't any precision components anyway... I would just try it - if you see the LED light up, let it stay for a few seconds, unplug from mains and feel if anything got hot. If not, repeat with a longer try. It if still doesn' t heat up anywhere, try to start it. The main regulating transistor of the power supply is mounted separately on the frame near the motor, that might be a prime suspect to heat up if anything is drawing too much current.

This is all very unscientific and will only succeed in the lucky case there's actually nothing wrong with the circuitry. Optimally you should have a multimeter on the power supply and see if the voltages are correct. Which would mean you'll need to have the schematics - have you done that kind of work before?

OK Mika, I will take your advice and proceed with caution. I have done a little bit of electronic work before but I am rusty but do have a multimeter etc. I also have a variac, being that I have no way of knowing how long the unit spent in the attic and its previous owner was around 90 when he died do you think hooking it up to the variac and bringing it up slowly would save any of the circuitry from frying? The other fuse was fine maybe that means something ? I did notice on the bottom of the shinny side of the platter that there were some slight brown marks as if something was throwing a bit of heat. Not tons mind you but enough to discolour the underside of the platter in a couple little spots. Daren

I wouldn't bother with the Variac. That is mostly useful with long unused tube radios where the electrolytic capacitors have lost their insulation barrier and just banging the power on can destroy a lot of stuff. It should not happen with later low voltage circuits like this, and the deck will not work correctly with a too low mains voltage anyway.

Note that I'm still not explicitly telling you to power it on - I'd like to be there myself, but I'm pretty confident you could just try it

Hi Mika and Peter, just an update I installed the new fuse and it blew so I guess there is a much more serious problem. Maybe the power supply or the circuit the fuse supplies has a short or something? It was worth a try but I guess it is back to the drawing board. I may have to find a B & O tech as there should be one in Toronto?/ thanks Daren

movingcoilguy:

I may have to find a B & O tech as there should be one in Toronto?/ thanks Daren

If you decide you want to move onto a technician, there are some in Toronto listed here by a very reputable BeoWorlder.

Hello,

My TTT (Beo 4002) has the same problem. I want to change the transformer but I don't know how many volts it do.

Someone have the answer ?