Hello,
Should it be of any interest for some of you fellow Beogram owners, here's my story.
I got a cheap (60€) but beautifully preserved Beogram 6006 (similar to Beogram 8000) from a nice man who warned me that although he had all the capacitors changed, the deck remained non-functional. Fine.
Being a man of challenges, and a 25-year experienced repairguy (although with no B&O knowledge), I decided that I had to have it work.
I downloaded the service manual and started to look into it thoroughly.
Then my next step was to open the beast. Everything looked good, just a bit dusty that was all.
The motor was okay, running smoothly, and the main bearing perfect—spin it by hand and it will turn for ages!
However, the arm was a mess, being totally misaligned. I suspected it was damaged on opening the deck, because if you aren't very careful to push the subchassis to the right while opening it, it will foul the carriage and can badly affect alignment.
Same thing when you close the thing, you have to observe the carriage very carefully and move the subchassis accordingly, typically, right, then left while closing down when the carriage has passed up.
I soon realized the tachodisc was absolutely perfect. I nevertheless ordered a metal one from Dillen and fitted it (very nice instructions!). I therefore have a spare mylar tachodisc!
When I tried to play a record, the platter spinned at the correct speed, but the arm moved slightly to the left and that was it.
On visual inspection, I noticed several things that were wrong. Both sensing and tracking arms were misaligned, visually not parallel to each other, and not perpendicular to the table. Also, height semmed very wrong too.
Anyway after reading this post: http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/p/21317/159889.aspx#159889 I decided to open the command panel and have a go at adjusting the << and >> keys. The screws looked tilted to form a 30 degrees angle, and this couldn't be right. So I just put them out and back on properly (so I thought) and tried playing a record. It worked!
The Switch Off switch (SO) had to be adjusted too because on some EPs, the needle didn't go far enough.
Then I contacted Dillen again and he provided the tips to re-align the arms. This was difficult to get right, there are so many screws! But I followed the SM instructions and set parallelism, and right angles relative to the platter.
But unfortunaely I had to open the deck again because the tracking arm height has to be adjusted from underneath the carriage. I pulled the front guide first, then the back guide, then I was able to pull the carriage up and adjust the height relative to the sensing arm. I cleaned and re-oiled everything, using sewing machine oil on the spindle and teflon oil elsewhere.
You have to be extra careful here not to damage the flexible PCB, it's fragile.
Everything back on. More fine adjustments of the arm and finally I had to adjust the aperture (screw 531 on SM) so that both arms remained parallel during tracking. You have to understand (thanks Dillen) that lateral play is normal, the arm can swivel by a few degrees, but the sensing arm always catches it, that had to be adjusted.
I also had to readjust the << an >> keys because sometimes (from cold) the arm wouldn't move very far left, it had to be returned home (pressing stop) manually, then it worked fine thereafter.
I finally adjusted the suspension and that was it. My 6006 came with a new (probably re-tipped) MMC20EN, sounding superb.
I realized I could now play very challenging LPs, and say farewell to end of side distorsion!
Now I have a fully functional deck.
I just miss the spring leaf that holds the cover open, but I've now got a superb deck that I will keep.
Edit: I got today from http://www.turntablebasics.com/silicone.html the 600,000 Cs grease, which works fine for the alu lid damping, it now goes down smoothly.