Hi Beo people,

I'm hoping someone could help me or point me to more info.  I'm restoring my Beogram 8000.  I believe it's an earlier model since it uses the plastic litho opto encoder disc (not stainless steel).  Plus the chassis is cracked arouind the upper right hand corner due to stress on the hinge of the metal panel cover. 

I obtained a new stainless steel encoder disk directly from B&O several years ago.  I'm just now trying to install it.  Problem is I don't know how to remove the central hub (which the disc is attached to).  I have two different copies of the repair manual but doesn't specifically cover removal procedure, nor does the exploded diagram help.  I've managed to move the metal keeper bracket out of the way and gently lift the hub up around 1/4 inch.  But that's as far up as it will go.  I hesitate to start disassembling the chassis since it seems like it can be done without doing this.  Anyone?

Secondly, the metal cover has come off.  Apparently there had been double-sided foam tape that's long since dissintegrated.  I removed all traces of this on both sides with alcohol.  I could reattach it with more double-sided tape.  However the plastic in the corner is totally cracked and the lifter mechanism is extremely sticky (overly dampened) and consequently difficult to open/close the hinge.  I figure I could fix it with a few small pieces of velcro in the corners, instead of using that badly designed hinge mechanism.  Ideas?

Third, electrolytics.  I have a parts list.  Once I get the encoder disk installed I'll see how well it operates.  I hesitate to open this beast unless I absolutely need to, given it's reputation.

Fourth, belt?  The repair manual shows a small belt which seems associated with the worm-drive mechanism.  Does anyone have the specs on this (ie, width, thickness, length)?  I saw references to some sort of triangular geometry.  Does anybody know what this refers to?

I appreciate any help that people could offer.  Thanks in advance!

- Chris

Hi Chris:

Do a search on Beogram 8000  and Beogram 8002 in this forum, I think you'll find answers/tips to many of your questions.

Dillen (Martin) can supply the belt and capacitors. He has ready made kits.

As for cracked chasis, you can fix this with a bit of work.... Digout out all the loose debris from the chasis. Find some plastic sheets or wax coated paper and create a mold around the cracked portion of the chasis. Fill the chasis with epoxy (remember to place the brass insert back in and to seal hole so it doesn't get plugged with epoxy)

When the epoxy is semi -cured, use an razor blade and trim off the excess. You should be able to get a real smooth finish. When cured gently sand off the coarse edges and paint the epoxy with a black magic marker. If done properly you won't be able to see the patch job at all.

It is critical that you plan how to cut the form. Using a smooth surface to ensure the epoxy won't stick to the form, this is important to give the professional look.

Derek

Thanks, Auric, I appreciate it.  Actually, I had done a pretty good search for the procedure for removing the hub/tacho disc.  Still can't find anything specific.  As I said I've tried lifting the hub but it only comes up around 1/4 inch and stops.  It won't quite clear the top of the right-angle metal keeper bracket, so that's how far it will go. 

As far as caps, I already have most values and can pick up the rest at the parts store down the street (nice living in Silicon Valley).  They have a whole wall of assorted belts, too.  But alas, I don't have the dimensions on the original belt.  I don't feel like removing it unless it seems to need it but it would be nice to at least pick one up for future use without having to disassemble the chassis to measure it.  I assume the symptoms of a bad belt would be sluggish movement of the tone arm due to slippage?

Thanks for the tip on the epoxy trick.  Perhaps black epoxy putty would be easer to work with (no molds needed?).  Maybe I could just roughen up the surfaces of the inside corners and press it into place.  Haven't disassembled it yet so I can't say for sure.  Thanks again,

- Chris

Chris:

I've not used epoxy putty before so I cannot give an opinion in terms of strength and brittleness once cured. The 8000 had beautifully designed electronic innovation but sadly not so good enclosure. The hinge is under too much pressure and doesn't hold up well over time. The 4000 is beautifully designed the entire chasis and hinge is cast from aluminum!

When you fix the hinge, do not follow the advice of the service manual with regards to adjusting tension on the dust cover; it is way too high. Rather adjust enough so that the cover just stays up near fully open position otherwise you can crack the back hinge. So far no one has come up with a viable solution for fixing that!

As for the center hub, there is a copper/broze lever arm that needs to be slid over. This releases the catch.

Derek

With the Beogram in service mode, you need to swing the opto sensor
out of the way to lift up the hub.

Martin

Hey Martin (and others), thanks so much for the info.  Duh, I overlooked how to get it into "service mode" in the repair manual. Installed the encoder.  It works!  I funked out to the soundtrack for Shaft - can you dig it?!  OK, I used that as an expendible test record - not my favorite.

Turns out the back panel wasn't cracked at all, just not assembled properly from a previous repair (not done by me).  However, the final problem with it is in the upper right corner (below power cord) along the bottom, the back edge of the panel protrudes 1-2mm.  What's happening is it's hitting the hinge pin.  The end of the hinge pin is bend 90-degrees and thus sticks out from the outer end of the hinge by 1-2mm.  I examined the insides carefully and rotated it all around.  But there doesn't appear to be a recess in the panel to accomodate it.  So the panel just sticks out (which bows the plastic visibly).  This sure looks like a bad design to me as opposed to a manufacturing defect or damage.  One solution would be to simply drill a hole in the corner and allow the hinge to protrude thru the corner of the panel and seat outside the chassis.  This may look funny but at least the rear panel will finally lie flush with the chassis.  Is anyone following this?  Comments?

I've been looking for a belt unsuccessfully.  I found similar 0-ring and flat belts but mine is a v-belt.  It appears to be 3.48" (inner circumference).  95% of this would be 3.3".  Width 75 mils and height around 70 mils.  I contacted a few places that supposedly had replacements but no luck.  Mine seems OK except it's gotten egg-shaped and has trouble moving smoothly.  Does anyone have contact info for someone who could sell me a replacement (v-belt, not o-ring or rectangular)?  Any info appreciated!

Trust me the bent pin is properly designed!

It is used to attach the metal chasis to the composite frame. Be very careful about how you "fiddle" with it. The pin is not designed to support the chassis cover in open position. Any leverage and you can crack the fingers that hold it in place.

This pin slides all the way in and the recesses by turning it over on its side.

Auric,

thanks for the input.  I must disagree, however, based on my observations.  Perhaps my unit is an early model and the defect was fixed in a later revision.  As an electro-mechanical design engineer, I'd be surprised if a problem like this wasn't promptly corrected in production.  Anyway, the photos show how the pin prevents the back cover from going down completely.  Neither the plastic back nor chassis have a recess to accomodate the pin no matter how it's rotated.  So the back hits the pin and bulges outwards.  This looks bad plus it puts stress on the plastic retention tab and compromises rigidity of the corner and cover hinge.  As you can see from the photos, I merely dremeled out a hole to allow the pin to protrude through.  Then trimmed off the excess.  And presto!  Now the back finally fits flush with the chassis for the first time.

No recess for hinge pin:

Back cover hits it and bulges outwards:

Making a small hole (mousebite) in the corner did the trick:

Now back cover is finally flush:

One more thing, I got a new belt (OA 3.3) and it seems to have done the trick.  Now I have a strange new problem which wasn't present with the old belt (cuing problem).  I'll address this in another thread.  Thanks for all the help, folks.  It's been fun restoring this amazing piece of engineering!

The belt you mention will be the reason for the new problem you have.
It's a standard belt of which practically none are useable in any B&O.

The metal rod will normally have the "handle" inside the Beogram. Not sticking out the back like this.
Check that the other end of it actually goes inside its little holders all the way to the front of the Beogram.
Could also be a homemade rod - made too long.

Martin

The pin is not supposed to stick out at all! It goes flush into the chasis and folds over. Nothing sticks out.

These things sold for over a thousand dollars in 1980s. I don't think anyone would have bought one if it looked as your pictures describe.

It is possible that it is not an original pin!