Hi there

If I remember correctly, there are some BMW owners out there among our memebers. As my old VW polo needs to be replaced with something bigger this summer, I have started wondering what I would like to drive. Then the smaller BMWs poped in to mind. My budget could get me a mid 90'ies 316i/318i (the E36 chassi), but how easy are these to keep running? Will I be spending all weekends replacing parts? Should I just get a VW Golf instead??

 best regards

Christian

Hi Christian,

The BMW 3 series is a very reliable car, high mileages no problem.

I have owned quite a few 3 series; 4 and 6 cyl. models, coupé, sedan, convertible, touring 

and i love them, particularly the E36. 

If you are looking for an E36, i would recommend to look out for a model of 1993 and onwards, 

which have a few improvements over the first models (wind-noise f.e.)

The thing to watch out for on 4 cyl. models (316i-318i) is the timing belt, which has to be changed every ... kms. 

Other things to check is the central locking system, the power windows, door rubbers, glass of the headlights.

As BMW's are often driven "dynamically", the suspension / shock absorbers and brakes should be checked as well. 

The costs of spare parts are reasonable, however more expensive then VW Polo parts. 

A VW Golf will cost about the same when it comes to maintenance (only applies to the 4 cyl. models,

the parts for the 6 cyl. models are of course more expensive.

BMW's have a service interval instrument. 

The E36 models have green / yellow / red lights that indicate when the car needs (oil)service or inspection. 

If you drive fast, the parts will wear down more quickly and the service interval will be shorter. 

If you drive carefully, the service interval will be longer. 

Beware of cars which are "tuned".

For older BMW's, BMW offer fixed prices for replacement parts, you can ask your local BMW dealer. 

As for which type to choose, i would recommend the 318i, fuel consumption is okay.

Are you planning to buy the car in your country ? 

If not, German and Dutch cars are interesting. 

German cars: prices of second hand cars continue to drop, and the German TÜV has very strict regulations, 

so all modifications to a car have to be approved by the TÜV. 

Dutch cars: prices are also dropping and the advantage of Dutch cars is that roads are mostly in excellent condition,

The Netherlands is a "flat" country, so the car's engine and suspension don't "suffer" very much. 

(one of the main reasons why so many cars are exported) 

All the cars I've owned were 3-series BMW's. Like Ignace said go for an original car. The best thing to do is to get a low milage car with as few previous owners as possible. Especially the six cylinder petrol engines are great. High mileage six cylinder cars tend to burn oil. This is caused by worn piston rings and valve guides. 

I've only had one BMW in my life (an old 728i), but I have some general advice for buying such a car which is, as said, known to be driven dynamically

• Test drive several so you have some idea of how the car should "feel", especially if you have never had one like it before.
  
• Take a friend with you, doesn't even have to be any kind of specialist. It's easy to get blinded when you're the buyer, and sitting on the back seat during a test drive you see and hear different things than while driving.
• Arrange the offerings by price, and skip the cheapest quarter of them, however tempting they may be.
  
• Try to find out the history of the car. Buying from the first or second owner is usually much safer than choosing a car that has had 10 owners in 10 years ("rotating trophies" as we call them in Finland).
• Reserve 10-30% of the sale prices for further surprise repairs. You may not need it, but you won't get in trouble either if something comes up (as it often does with older cars). And whatever you repair with that reserve, you can then trust for a long time.
  

I don't know if it is nowadays financially practical to import used cars to Denmark - it sure wasn't in Finland, but we managed to mostly fix that after going through EU court. Since then, I've been involved in half a dozen car imports from Germany to Finland. If you, Christian, are considering that, I have plenty more to say about buying a car in Germany...

Hi and thanks alot for all the suggestions. Yes the E36 is the one I have fallen in love with, and the compact versions is probably the one for me, I like the idea of being able to carry large/bulky things. And ofcourse, as orriginal as possible, which also speaks for the compact, some sedan versions have been fiddled too much with compared to the compact mostly driven by another clientiel I think.

There are some compacts (316i and 318i) in Denmark, they cost around 40.000 dkk (4.000 pound sterling) and are from around 1995. Importing a rust free example from Germany sounds tempting, although a bit cumbersome. The Danish tax on such a car is around the same ammount that the car itself costs in Germany. How difficult is it?

 thanks again

Christian

Hi Christian,

The E36 compact is somewhat a different story....

Personally, i wouldn't go for the compact, 

basically because it isn't a "real" E36. 

What i mean by that is that it uses a lot of components of the E30, 

which in itself isn't a problem, as the E30 also is a good car. 

But the main difference is the rear axle, which on Z3 and E36 compact basically is E30 (from 1982-..)

The rear axle used in all other E36 models is the famous Z-axle, 

of which the BMW Z1 was the prototype / first used in the Z1. 

The rear-axle used in the E30 and E36 compact is quite old-fashion when it comes to handling,

the rear end of the compact likes to slide a bit more compared to the other E36 models.

Regarding interior parts of the E36 compact; it is a mix and match of E30 and E36.

If you plan to buy a E36 compact, note that the 316i is the absolute base model,

it doesn't have the elipsoïd lenses on the headlights (which all other models do have) 

Hi and thanks again.

I read something about the older rearaxle, will it be a problem in for instance rain or snow? I didn't know the interiour was different, and are the other headlights better?

My problem is probably that i would like a stationcar, but cant afford it (they are still expensive). Can you fold the rear seats forward on the sedan models?

Best regards

Christian

The older rear-axle makes driving on snow and in the rain a bit more tricky, especially with powerfull engines (6 cyl.)
Have you driven rear-wheel drive cars before (in snow/rain) ?
The back end of the car can suddenly break out in corners when the tires lose grip / too much power applied.
This is a typical disadvantage of a rear wheel drive car without traction control, can be corrected by steering in the other direction, but is more tricky.., and fun!)  
Typical disadvantage of a front wheel drive car without traction control is that it goes on in a straight line when it loses grip while cornering,
but can be corrected more easy)
Most cars now have traction control (ASC on BMW) or even stability control (ESP, BMW calls it DSC)
But most E36 only got ASC on the later models.
Considering that the 318i isn't really overpowered (115 hp), so cornering will not be a problem.

The headlights make quite a difference, the elipsoïd lenses bundle the light more into a beam.

Not 100% sure if the fold-down rear seats were available as an option on the sedan,
but my E36 318i sedan did not have it.

The E36 touring seems ideal for you.
They are a bit more expensive than the sedan,
in Germany, a base model 318i touring, about 1996, 160.000 km. costs about € 3000,-
same model, but full spec (climate control, power windows and so on), 1996, 130.000 km.(or less) costs about € 5000,-
A top of the line, with very low km., 1998, costs about € 6000,-

The E46, 318i of about the year 2000, 140.000 km., costs about € 7- 8000,-(the E46 has many safety feature standard,
including ABS, CBC (cornering brake control), ASC+T (automatic stability and traction control), 6 airbags (front, side and head),

Buying and driving back to Denmark on a temporary license plate / 1-day insurance shouldn't be a problem,
but how does the Danish customs work ?
The tax, on which price is it based ?
- emissions / invoice price / fuel type / size of the engine / kW/hp ?

Current EU regulations and decrease of prices could make importing a car (very) interesting !

ChrDH:

There are some compacts (316i and 318i) in Denmark, they cost around 40.000 dkk (4.000 pound sterling) and are from around 1995. Importing a rust free example from Germany sounds tempting, although a bit cumbersome. The Danish tax on such a car is around the same ammount that the car itself costs in Germany. How difficult is it?

I can't help with the part that happens in Denmark, but in Germany buying a car is not that difficult. It's awfully bureaucratic for someone coming form Scandinavia (you have to drive back and forth in several offices, and it can take half a day!) but the seller should help with that.

To keep it short, register plates in Germany belong to the owner and not the car like we are used to. Cars sitting for sale at dealers and such are therefore never registered, and it doesn't matter because it will be done anyway when you buy it. You get export plates (red-ended plates allow you to drive in Denmark as well), a certificate that the car has been unregistered in Germany, and the papers that belong with the car. Don't buy a car where the inspection ("TÜV") has run out, or demand that the seller does it before the sale.

Some other points about buying a car in Germany:

• They will mostly only accept cash!
• The dealers may only have one person at work that speaks (or wants to speak) any English...
• Decide in advance where you are going to look for the car. There are literally hundreds and hundreds of similar cars for sale, so it makes no sense to drive around the country, it takes an incredible amount of time. The car dealerships are usually located in certain parts of the city. From Denmark, I'd probably look around Hamburg or Hannover.
  
• mobile.de is a good place to look for used cars. Again, forget about the cheapest third of what is for sale!
• Germans didn't really like small engines ten years ago. You might have to settle for a -23 or -25 
• The cars will usually be much better equipped than the domestic counterparts in high car tax countries like us... keep that in mind when comparing prices.
• Forget about the ethnic car lots with a net fence around them that have lots of cheaper cars for sale, unless you really know what you are buying. Established BMW dealers would be much safer, although 10 year old small cars are just about dropping out of their interest, so they don't usually spend much sales space for them. They are also forced to give you six months guarantee, and from Denmark, it might be even practical to use it if need be.
• It's really hard to get the sale over with in one day. The registration offices usually close at noon. Again, you might actually be able to drive back home for the night and come back to get the car the next day (although the German countryside is full of cheap gasthouses).
• Don't get blinded just because the car looks like new. They are really good in makeup, and will routinely swap worn pedal rubbers, gearshift knobs, and worn steering wheels to make the car look like it hasn't been driven much. A good test drive is essential. Unfortunately you can't trust the odometer much, especially if you buy the car from someone else than a dealer.
• Take a look at the brake rotors. If they are very rusty, the car has been sitting for sale for a long time, and there's usually a reason for it. Pictures with green trees and lawn in February are also a little suspicious
  

Unfortunately I don't know how much work you might have at home to get the car registered and taxed. Here in Finland, we have to mostly forget about importing cars cheaper than 5000 euro or so, since the fixed expenses are easily over 1000 because of the petrol, ferry tickets, registration and such - and then the taxes come on top of it.

I have driven a Volvo 740 estate turbo with an automatic transmission in snow on my way from skiing-holiday in Norway this winther... that was an interesting and tireing experience, watching out for the turbo not engaging and keeping the Volvo going in a (more or less) straight line. But the rear wheel drive was efficient in round-abouts, flicking the tail out. But I must admit, in most situation I missed a manual transmission, FWD and ABS brakes... But we made it home and the turbo is fun when the road is dry.

How does the tail of a BMW respond if you lift the foot from the throttle when cornering? FWD cars sometimes drift the tail gently out when driving in the rain and lifting the foot from the throttle in a corner.

All the E36 got ABS here in Denmark (there was a tax deduction for new cars with ABS) but not with traction control on older ones. By the way, taxes on new cars are 180% plus 25%VAT, the smallest new golf costs 22.000 £...

And here lies the problem with importing a used one, the Danish customs calculates the tax based on what you paid for the used car but also on what such a used car costs in Denmark. So there is probably no profit from importing from Germany, besides the fact that it is easier to find one in good condition, and the level of equipment is higher. I found an arcitle in the Danish version of Auto Bild about importing, and there is alot of paperwork when you get the car to Denmark too. So I am still considering, I'll probably prefer to buy a local (Danish) one.

The sedan versions and the compact versions is about the same price in Denmark, but the Estate versions are rare and newer and hence out of my budget, unfortunately. 

Best regards and thanks again, I'll keep you updated. Will probably visit a local used car dealer this weekend to test the idea of a BMW out.

Christian

If you can keep a rwd Volvo estate turbo with auto transmission safely on the road on a ski-holiday,
i think it is safe to say that you've succesfully mastered rear wheel drive in the winter ! :-)

So i'm sure that a E36 318i sedan won't cause any problems, i had that exact same model and drove it for more than 3 years,
also in winter in Belgium/Luxemburg, without any problems.

Regarding Danish tax climate, it indeed seems more logical to look for a car in Denmark.

I would strongly recommend a sedan over the compact, it is the more modern car.
(the E36 compact still is a joy to drive, even a little more agile than the sedan)
If possible, choose one of mid 1993-onwards.
You can recognise this by looking at some details, like f.e. the door-mirrors,
the updated versions have small plastic dots on the side, as you can see on the image below:

They also have small dots on the front head lights:


These are a few examples of the many modifications, i just wanted to point out a few examples for identifying a certain model/year.
(earlier models, before 1993 had some issues with the quality of the finish, strong wind-noise, and so on.

Good luck, looking forward to read about your experiences ! 

I wish !

It would be a lot cheaper to drive them  

Ignace has covered just about everything from a technical aspect, but here are some common-sense tips.

Look at the steering wheel, gear knob and drivers seat.  Does the speedo say 60,000km, and the seat is worn through - matching the leather peeling from the steering wheel and gear knob?!!  If so, either the car has a false mileage and/or a doctored history - or it's done a whole heap of short journeys, with the engine stone cold. Either one is not good.

Personally, i wouldn't be scared of higher mileage if the car has done regular long trips - preferably on the motorway or major roads.  Minimal stress on the steering, suspension, engine and gearbox when cruising in a straight line, but it still racks the miles up and lowers the price for the next buyer!

Model wise, i'd go for a Saloon 4dr 320i SE with slightly above average mileage if i was on a budget.  The 6 cylinder models do smoke with mega-km's on the clock and poor servicing, but a well serviced 160,000km model will be just 'run-in' and will give years more service.  I wouldn't go for a 316i, it's not fun.  The 318i is better, but seriously - BMW excel at 6 cylinder engines, that's what they have always done best..

If you must buy a Compact - a 318ti Sport is the best all-rounder.  Again, i agree with Ignace though - a proper saloon is much nicer to drive.

Good luck, and keep us informed!  Oh, and being an ex dealer i should be telling you to go to a dealer - but the bargains lay in private ads if you're patient and time it right.  

Not sure about car auctions in Denmark either?  When i was in my 20's, I used to go to the car auctions on Christmas Eve when nobody was there, buy a nice car for peanuts, run it right over Christmas - then wait til the second week of January when the trade was buying again and prices were rocketing, and put it straight back in there.  The profit used to pay for my entire Christmas - presents, parties, food and drink!

Timing is key too.  In my early days too i used to get up at 5am and sit outside the very first newsagent the car ad magazine 'Auto Trader' was dropped at in my town.  I used to grab a copy, and would be calling the sellers of the cheapest cars at 7am before they went to work.  Many a time i used to be thrusting a wad of cash into the hand of a half asleep seller and driving off with a bargain..

I did get told to **** off for calling so early now and again, but my answer would be "is the car for sale or not - because if it is, i'd like to buy it please... I have a large amount of cash in front of me - would you like it?"  Usually did the trick...

Lee 

I got plenty of time to wait for the right car, my old Polo is due for MOT this summer and will hopefully give me many cheap miles until then, while I am saving up for the BMW. Thanks for the advise on wear/tear on the steering wheel ect. The ideal time to skip the polo would be in the beginning of the summer, so I can use the BMW for summer holiday. Although on my budget I'll have to live without A/C.

The salon versions haven't got the ability to fold the rear seats forward, it is probably not the car for me. I like to be able to throw a bike or a set of skis in the car and drive off. Again, a touring would be ideal, but too expensive. And I actually always liked the design of the compact. Is the TI version any harder to maintain? I hope to be able to perform general maintenance myself. How difficult is it to exchange for instance the clutch?

There are some car auctions in Denmark, but not many. And I would expect that a car like the BMW could be too popular and hence too expensive at such an auction.

Thanks again and best regards

Christian

The E36 sedan could be ordered with either : 

- no fold-down of rear seats 

- fold-down of rear seats

- fixed with opening for skis 

If i remember correctly, the E36 coupé had the fold-down standard. 

Regards, 

Ignace

Aha, thanks! That brings the sedan version back in the game making the pool of possible cars bigger. The fold-down rear seats is important to meI once had a Peugeot 405 sedan (1,9 petrol) it was a nice ride (and fast, 0-60mph in 10 flat), but the back seats could not be folded down! Bikes had to hang out the boot. It had a opening for skis though.

The coupe is beautifull, but still extremely expensive used (probably also because of bigger engines/more equipment than sedans).

All the used car adds I have seen for compacts had split fold down seats.

The best way to settle the matter is to test drive a sedan and a compact. My girlfriend should also have a say, although she is probably indifferent. She agreed to a BMW because of the general quality and the ride quality, and I saw it as an interesting alternative to a Golf. In my family we mostly drive French cars, but the soft suspension makes my girlfriend motion ill, the perfect excuse to buy a BMW! I have liked them ever since I tried a 1996 528....

Best regards

Christian