Please take a look at the setup drawn in this post; I am thinking about creating this setup to replace my Avant.

What I hope to achieve is:

- (Full)HD plasma picture

- Dolby Digital / DTS surround sound for all sources connected (DVD, cable box, etc)

- Use beamer for watching movies only (while the tv is turned off)

- Use Masterlink for sound distribution only

- Keep the option open to upgrade to the BS3 in the future

 Please let me know if there are any problems you see in using this setup. Remote control should be fine since I have a lintronic.

One thing I am not sure about is if lip-syncing could be an issue,

Thanks in advance for all feedback!

Bieele 

 

Not 1 reply in 14 hours?

How can I get your attention? I tried to by making a drawing of my idea; but maybe I should think about something else:

I offer all the prices I won so far in the monthly price draw for the best feedback!

Bieele

Don't know if it's possible to control the dvd-player and the digital box through beolink if you connect them to the tv.

The only advise I can give you is to use hdmi or dvi cables. We have got a 46pz85 in the living room, and it looks acceptable when it's connected with scart or component, but when you connect a hdmi source to it a whole new world opens .

And another tip, you have to turn off the inteligent frame in de option menu. Otherwise the image will shock sometimes.

 I think I will advise:

Buy the Panasonic telly, buy a good digital box with hdmi (not the 50,- euro ones) and get a Pansonic Blu-ray/hdd player. Panasonic has got the Vierra link technic, so it's possible to controll all those things with one remote (just like B&O). Get yourself a Beo-5, and scan these IR signals. At the end you can controll everything with the Beo-5 and you can sell the Beosystem 2. That system is just out of time.

Now you only need a good processor the connect the speakers. Just buy a used one from Primare, Rotel or whatever. 

this would be the best option

 

Can the Beo5 scan signals? Terminal to Terminal?

Beobird:

Now you only need a good processor the connect the speakers. Just buy a used one from Primare, Rotel or whatever. 

Hello Beobird,

Thanks for the very informative reply, exactly the kind of expertise I was hoping for!

The reason I think about using the beosystem 2 is because of the masterlink and powerlink connectivity.

I could live without the masterlink (I only use it to distribute music and could still use my Beosound 9000 as a master).

But I also though that connecting the beolab speakers to another brand processor would be an issue. For instance if a movie has a longer period without rear sound; could this results in the beolab speakers turning off? Or is this no issue?

Hope to hear from you!

Bieele

bayerische:

Can the Beo5 scan signals? Terminal to Terminal?

It is possible to put new signals into a Beo-5, but you have to ask the dealer because there's no software available for normall costumers .

Bieele:

Beobird:

Now you only need a good processor the connect the speakers. Just buy a used one from Primare, Rotel or whatever. 

Hello Beobird,

Thanks for the very informative reply, exactly the kind of expertise I was hoping for!

The reason I think about using the beosystem 2 is because of the masterlink and powerlink connectivity.

I could live without the masterlink (I only use it to distribute music and could still use my Beosound 9000 as a master).

But I also though that connecting the beolab speakers to another brand processor would be an issue. For instance if a movie has a longer period without rear sound; could this results in the beolab speakers turning off? Or is this no issue?

Hope to hear from you!

Bieele

Buying a Rotel, Naim, Primare or whatever processor will only be better. They support much more modern movie codecs then the Beosystem 2 does. I also think the sound performance will improve when the processor is well made.

 Don't know for sure if the rear speakers will turn off when there is no signal, but I think they do, so you probably need a little trigger. Maybe you can ask Bulgarien on the Workbench area. He knows much more of tweaking B&O components, and I think the trigger is easily to solve.

 

 You should create that 0.5V signal I see.

You can also search in this topic from Peter Pan, He uses the B&O products for the eye, and has the other audio products hided in a furniture. http://www.recordere.dk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4389&PN=1&TPN=7

Normall conecting cables can be bought here http://www.flashbacksales.co.uk/acatalog/headphone-amp-5-Pin-din-phono-rca-Cables.html 

Beobird:

Buying a Rotel, Naim, Primare or whatever processor will only be better. They support much more modern movie codecs then the Beosystem 2 does. I also think the sound performance will improve when the processor is well made.

Beobird, thanks again for the info.

I have spent a lot of time the last 2 days to browse for products to build a system as you suggested. I feel quite confident that this could be a very nice solution. Using the lintronic box I have I think it will also be quite 'user friendly'.

Also the trigger concern seems solveable; a lot of processors have trigger outs to initiate other devices; lowering the voltage would fix this as you proposed from the 'peterpan' topic.

One thing that surprised me: Almost all A/V processors available are more expensive compared to the available A/V receivers (also from good brands). What is the reason for this?

I am thinking about buying a good A/V receiver; this way I could hookup my powerlink speakers to the pre-amp outs, but I still need to buy a center speaker; this way I could (maybe temporary) use a passive speaker that I do not use at the moment. Would it work to use the pre-amp and amplified signals (for different outputs) simultaneously?

Regards,

Bieele 

Hi,

There are special powerlink cables available which allow you to run Beolabs from a surround sound processor, they also reduce the 12v trigger output from the processor to 5v required by the Beolabs. I use them with a pair of Beolab 3's as rear speakers and a Nad M15 Surround Sound Preamplifier, and they work perfectly.

The link below has more detailed information about them. 

http://av-connection.dk/?PNo=AV-D8B-XXX&ML=1

 

Best wishes

 

Paul 

 @bieele

A/V processors are more expensive because they're  made for people with really big home theatres (normall hifi systems don't need them because they're not worth it). The processors are specially made to deliver the best performance on surround sound.

Normally people buy this:

- low-end let's say till 2000,- euro's including speakers: Receiver or normall integrated amplifier

- mid-end till 5000,- euro's:  pre amplifier with a power amplifier or a better integrated amplifier

- high-end 5000,- euro or more: pre amplifier/processor (depending on the system, is it only for music or movies) and a powerfull power amplifier

It's a bit schematic, and in the real life high-end has nothing to do with the price of the system, but it's more about the idea where a processor belongs.

If I was you I really wouldn't buy a receiver, because you don't need the onboard radio and the normall power outs (I mean, why spent 50% of the receiver costs on things you wouldn't use ?). If you don't wan't to spent much money on a processor, you should buy a normall surround pre amplifier.

 edit:

This is the lates one from Rotel, and it costs around 1700,- euro's. Haven't seen an 7.1 processor including hmdi ports for less, so I should say "have a look". http://www.rotel.com/UK/Products/ProductDetails.htm?id=474

liberal:

Hi,

There are special powerlink cables available which allow you to run Beolabs from a surround sound processor, they also reduce the 12v trigger output from the processor to 5v required by the Beolabs. I use them with a pair of Beolab 3's as rear speakers and a Nad M15 Surround Sound Preamplifier, and they work perfectly.

The link below has more detailed information about them. 

http://av-connection.dk/?PNo=AV-D8B-XXX&ML=1

Best wishes

Paul 

Thanks Paul, that is indeed what I was looking for! The only difference: I would need quite long cables; do you use powerlink wiring connected to this cable?

 

Beobird:

 @bieele

If I was you I really wouldn't buy a receiver, because you don't need the onboard radio and the normall power outs (I mean, why spent 50% of the receiver costs on things you wouldn't use ?). If you don't wan't to spent much money on a processor, you should buy a normall surround pre amplifier. 

 edit:

This is the lates one from Rotel, and it costs around 1700,- euro's. Haven't seen an 7.1 processor including hmdi ports for less, so I should say "have a look". http://www.rotel.com/UK/Products/ProductDetails.htm?id=474 

Hallo Bieele here are some possibilities.
.
http://www.recordere.dk/forum/uploads/PeterPan/2008-08-14_134409_aktive_bl._til_non_B&O_forst..gif

http://lintronic.dk/AppNote_BeoLink.pdf
.
My English is not good. So hope you forståt my drawings.
.
Greetings Peter Pan

Peter Pan:

Hallo Bieele here are some possibilities.

My English is not good. So hope you forståt my drawings.
.
Greetings Peter Pan

Hello Peter Pan,

Thanks for the info! Your forum is also great; it gives a lot of inspiration. Your English is good enough and your drawings are super.

You should start a company to sell these custom made solutions! I would be a costumer for sure! 

One question: I want to use my setup for movies as well as music. For music I want to use my front speakers (BL1) plus BL2. For movies all 6 speakers. Would it be best to only turn the speakers on that I use (in other words use two seperate triggers)? I saw that several receivers have multiple 12V triggers; so this could be done. The alternative would be to turn all speakers on; but I wonder if this could result in a minor "humming" from the speakers.

Bieele 

Bieele

It is, of the Per-Out amplifier you buy you determine loudspeaker outputs.
Builder you my box then use the Power Link MK III cable and you will not "brummen".
Each speaker must be active, not mixed with passive speaker.

Hi  Bieele,

The leads from AV Connection can be made to your own length, (mine are 10m) when you click on 'buy' you can specify which length you require.

I am not sure about connecting them to powerlink cables as these leads are wired for right and left, so each Beolab must have its own seperate lead wired back to the processor, which also means that you cannot 'daisy chain' the rear Beolabs.

 

Kind regards

 

Paul

 

I think I'll wait with investing in a FullHD screen.

During the month november the TH-42 PF11 will be released. The 50" will be released in december.

This is the next commercial panel without the speakers but with the RS232 connector you'll need if you want to invest in a BS3 in future.

My suggestion is, stick with the BS2 or strip an avant. It will give you less problems with link, sound, level and trigger issues.

You can connect HD sources (I would suggest e.g. a PS3 controlled by STB-C) directly to the plasma.

A lintronic box would control the plasma via RS232. All the sound from the HD sources can go through the BS2 or Avant.

Beobuddy:

I think I'll wait with investing in a FullHD screen.

During the month november the TH-42 PF11 will be released. The 50" will be released in december.

This is the next commercial panel without the speakers but with the RS232 connector you'll need if you want to invest in a BS3 in future.

My suggestion is, stick with the BS2 or strip an avant. It will give you less problems with link, sound, level and trigger issues.

You can connect HD sources (I would suggest e.g. a PS3 controlled by STB-C) directly to the plasma.

A lintronic box would control the plasma via RS232. All the sound from the HD sources can go through the BS2 or Avant.

Hello Beobuddy,

Looks like a nice screen indeed, I saw that it can already be ordered (the 42" version) on several sites. 

I have thought about stripping my avant to convert it to a "Beosystem 2", in other words, remove the tube and all other unneeded parts and only keep the masterlink, DD surround processor capabilities, tv tuner and powerlink connections. Would this be a complicated process?

Does anybody have an 'instruction' how to do this?

Bieele 

I don't know how to do this, but I should think about it twice...

 You really need to know what you wan't in the future, and what both options can bring you:

1. Beosystem 3: 100% integrated with all your other B&O equipment, but It was designed before hdmi 1.3, and it costs a lot more. You will also have to create some tweaks if you wan't to use it with a non-B&O blu-ray or hdd player.

2. Rotel surround processor: will integrate less then the Beosystem 3 does, but everything will work perfect after the trigger is solved (you can buy the rca to din cables new, so the trigger is the onlyl problem, and it can be solved easily). At the end you will have the hdmi 1.3 possiblity's, probably a better sound quality and you've got 2000,- euro's in your pocket. It is also very easy to connect other non-B&O equipment in the future, if you want.

 I would only go for option 1 if you're going to buy a B&O plasma/lcd too (otherwise you will spent 3 times more on the bs-3 then on the non-B&O tv). Option 2 will be a much better choice if you buy the Panasonic plasma combined with a Panasonic Blu-ray player.

Beobird:

I don't know how to do this, but I should think about it twice...

 You really need to know what you wan't in the future, and what both options can bring you:

 

I've done that for the past year.

It isn't that difficult to combine several equipment from different brands and control them with e.g. a lintronicbox.

But I don't like the trigger solution as mentioned. It works but it doesn't win the beautycontest.

I still would prefer a commercial panel because you can choose directly an input with one infrared/RS232 instruction.

To select one of the inputs from  the Panasonic consumerpanels you have to toggle with the AV button between several inputs.

 

But my choice is to start with a BS2 or stripped avant chassis to spread the costs. At the end I will have the BS3.

An alternative is to start with a second hand BV5 and build another panel in it.

But my main goal is to integrate the system. For example, I still want to use NMusic and to control my settopbox in my bedroom/bathroom.

As I look at my topfield HDPVR 7710. It has simultaniously the HDMI as well the composite videosignal. So the first is used for the panel and the second for link through the BS2/avantchassis. I don't need HD in the bedroom or kitchen, but still prefer music and video everywhere in the houseboat. 

Beobird:

 I would only go for option 1 if you're going to buy a B&O plasma/lcd too (otherwise you will spent 3 times more on the bs-3 then on the non-B&O tv). Option 2 will be a much better choice if you buy the Panasonic plasma combined with a Panasonic Blu-ray player.

Option 2 has another advantage: My wife will be very impressed if this system works after I build this "do it yourself" triggering box using my soldering equipment!

But without kidding: I am quite confident that I will go for a non-B&O solution. Although this will take quite some time to get fully working the way I like it, I believe that I can get very good picture/sound quality and all connectivity and upgrading possibilities I desire.

Therefore I am doing a lot of searching the find the proper system; that is a challenge since there is a lot of equipment to choose from if you do not choose B&O! The Rotel 1570 seems to be a perfect system, but is not yet available in the Netherlands. Also the Rotel 1069 seems to be a good option. Also Onkyo has a model which seems interesting. I am also not sure yet if I have to buy a specific pre-amp or that the good amp with pre-outs will also do a very good job.

I am sure I will keep you updated and that I need more information before I have this setup completed. 

Bieele 

Peter Pan:

It is, of the Per-Out amplifier you buy you determine loudspeaker outputs.
Builder you my box then use the Power Link MK III cable and you will not "brummen".
Each speaker must be active, not mixed with passive speaker.

I see that some (pre)amplifiers have a choice between "balanced" and "not-balanced" pre-amp outputs.

Can somebody tell me what the difference is and can I use both for a connection to B&O powerlink speakers? Is yes, is there a preference for balanced (because of using long cable lengths for instance)?

Thanks,

Bieele 

Yamaha RX-V663 have Pre-out 5.1 for volume-driven and trigger connection for aktive BeoLab speaker via PowerLink to RCA adapter. 

Fuld Specifikation:

Preout terminals for front, centre, surround and surround back, and dual mono subwoofer out

http://www.dvdplanet.ro/index.php?action=detalii&produsI D=4399

Fuld Specifikation:

Preout terminals for front, centre, surround and surround back, and dual mono subwoofer out

http://www.dvdplanet.ro/index.php?action=detalii&produsI D=4399

Peter Pan:

Hallo Bieele here are some possibilities.
.
http://www.recordere.dk/forum/uploads/PeterPan/2008-08-14_134409_aktive_bl._til_non_B&O_forst..gif

http://lintronic.dk/AppNote_BeoLink.pdf
.
My English is not good. So hope you forståt my drawings.
.
Greetings Peter Pan

One more question on this setup: Why is it needed to split the subwoofer out? I would expect that I can also connect pin 3 and 5 in the DIN connector to get the same result. Is this correct?

I am making good progress on choosing what to purchase to replace my avant.

As a pre-amp I will be using the pre-amp outs of a Marantz 6003. As a television I am still in doubt between the Samsung 786, a Panasonic or a new type Philips flat tv.

Best Regards,

Bieele 

Bieele
.
One more question on this setup: Why is it needed to split the subwoofer out?
I would expect that I can also connect pin 3 and 5 in the DIN connector to get the same result. Is this correct?
.
Yes pin 3 left, pin 5 right and pin 2 ground for connecting aktiv SUB, can also be connected with the front speakers.
.
Mvh. Peter Pan

Peter Pan:

Bieele
.
One more question on this setup: Why is it needed to split the subwoofer out?
I would expect that I can also connect pin 3 and 5 in the DIN connector to get the same result. Is this correct?
.
Yes pin 3 left, pin 5 right and pin 2 ground for connecting aktiv SUB, can also be connected with the front speakers.
.
Mvh. Peter Pan

Thanks Peter Pan,

But I am not sure  I understood completely:

My intention is to connect pin 3 and pin 5 of the sub woofer din connector (instead of using a splitter on the rca sub out of the receiver), so only using 1 cably from pre-amp subwoofer out to 8 pin din.

Is this correct?

Bieele