Hey guys,

Seems like a happy day for me, about to head off to Denmark to buy a pair of Beolab 5's.

When I spoke to a shop here at home, the shop said that with my current Beocenter 2300 I will need some kind of adapter if I run my Powerlink cables into the Lab 5's?

I understand that the S/PDIF is the best alternative, and I'm working on getting a beosound 9000.

But can't I just plug and play with Beocenter 2300 -> Powerlink -> Beolab 5? 

Hi,

Powerlink should work IMHO. 

One Powerlink from the Beocenter 2300 to the first Beolab 5. 

The second Powerlink cable from the first Beolab 5 to the second Beolab 5. 

I don't recall that an adapter is needed. 

Having said that, i don't have Beolab 5's, so i could be wrong. 

Anyway, have fun with the Beolab 5 ! 

I too am racking my brains as to why you would need an adapter!

BC2300 --> Powerlink Mk2 --> BeoLab 5

There are no problems with the above at all - they should work perfectly

Lee 

bayerische:

Hey guys,

Seems like a happy day for me, about to head off to Denmark to buy a pair of Beolab 5's.

When I spoke to a shop here at home, the shop said that with my current Beocenter 2300 I will need some kind of adapter if I run my Powerlink cables into the Lab 5's?

I understand that the S/PDIF is the best alternative, and I'm working on getting a beosound 9000.

But can't I just plug and play with Beocenter 2300 -> Powerlink -> Beolab 5? 

The new ICE Power powered speakers needs a MKIII powerlinkcable. It has on wire more than the MKII, it is "digital ground". If it is NEEDED i don't know but it is recomended. i dont know i BC2300 even has this "digital ground" cable in it's socket, if it does'nt then there is no reason to use a MKIII cable, i would just try it out if i were you, i will be surprised if it doesn't work.

/Weebyx

The PCG software doesn't mention anything about which type of Powerlink-cable.

The only thing that is mentioned is software V 1.3 or higher for the Beocenter 2300,

to have full benefits of Beo 4.

Hi Lee,

You are correct - no adapter is needed!  The BC2300 does have pin 7 of the Powerlink output sockets grounded, but for a different purpose.  Back in the "good old days" when the 2300 was produced, Beolab Pentas were still roaming the earth, so it will have pin 7 connected as a "data ground" as opposed to the newer "voltage reference ground".  However, the end result is the same.

Just connect the Lab 5's to the BC2300 with mark 2 Powerlink cables and enjoy the music!

Best regards,

Steve.

timhanna:

Can I ask why from Denmark? Is it cheaper?

Yes, by far. 

Weebyx:

The new ICE Power powered speakers needs a MKIII powerlinkcable. It has on wire more than the MKII

It is the MKII that has the extra cable, the MKIII is the thinner one...

You need the thicker one.

p.

bayerische:

timhanna:

Can I ask why from Denmark? Is it cheaper?

 

Yes, by far. 

Well, this always depends on where you live and what taxes you have to pay. Also, who is going to install and transport the product to your home? Cheaper by far? I doubt it...

wtlc2zpx:

Weebyx:

The new ICE Power powered speakers needs a MKIII powerlinkcable. It has on wire more than the MKII

It is the MKII that has the extra cable, the MKIII is the thinner one...

You need the thicker one.

p.

Actually MKIII is the new thin cable.

 http://www.hifi4all.dk/forum/uploads/PeterPan/2007-07-02_225413_PowerLink_Mk_3_og_Mk_2.jpg 

/weebyx

Hi,

Hopefully this will dispell the confusion!

1) Powerlink mark 1 cable is only useful for non-digital Beolab speakers without displays.

2) Powerlink mark 2 can be used for ANY Beolab speaker with 8pin sockets.

3) Powerlink mark 3 can be used for any Beolab speaker WITHOUT displays EXCEPT Beolab 5.

I don't manufacture a Powerlink mark 1 compatible cable, because there are too many situations where it won't work to make the small cost saving worthwhile.  I produce equivalent cables to Powerlink mark 2 and mark 3, as mark 2 will work with ANY speaker and mark 3 gives a reasonable cost saving for customers who either don't need display data or can't afford Beolab 5's.  Powerlink mark 1 is the thinnest cable, followed by mark 3 and then mark 2 is the thickest.

The only exception to the rules above are the original Beolabs (eg. Penta mark 1) which used 4 pin "Speakerlink" plugs.  These are a special case and Powerlink cables will not work on these speakers without adaptation.

Regarding the "voltage reference core" in mark 3 Powerlink, this is also present in mark 2 cables, but under another name (data ground).

Best regards,

Steve.

It us best to use 8/8 PowerLink, or 'fully-wired' PowerLink as it's sometimes called with BeoLab 5s. I believe it's supplied in the box with them...

Alex:

It us best to use 8/8 PowerLink, or 'fully-wired' PowerLink as it's sometimes called with BeoLab 5s. I believe it's supplied in the box with them...

Otherwise known as Mk2..

So what are the powerlink cables supplied with the Beolab 5's?

These are very thick (x4 the cross-sectional area of "other PL cables) and have the ferrite caps on either end of the cable just before the terminations?

10%

Yes, Lee is right - these are mark 2 cables!

Otherwise known as 8 core, 8/8 or "fully wired" (even though pin 8 is not used by Beolab 5?), these are the thickest Powerlink version.

B&O have started using a thicker version with ferrite coils on the newer versions, but these should not normally be necessary with a well designed and manufactured cable (my own personal view is that the coverage of the screening conductors on many Powerlink cables can be less than perfect).  Ferrite coils can be easily "retro-fitted", but the inductance needs to be calculated to avoid any effect on audio frequencies, hence this is not recommended as a DIY option.

Just a quick note here on cable routing - as Powerlink cables carry very small audio signals (well under 1 volt RMS at normal listening volumes), often over long distances, so it pays to be careful about where you route your cables.  Large gains in sound quality can be made by running your Powerlink cables away from sources of interference such as mains leads and sockets, "white goods" such as fridges, etc. and fluorescent lights.  Always consult a qualified electrician before installing Powerlink cables in your walls, floor or ceiling, as they will help you avoid mains cables hidden away in the building structure.  If you need Powerlink cables to cross mains cables, do this at right angles and try to space them apart if possible, rather than letting them rest on each other.  Avoid "cable tidies" that route power and audio cables together, unless they include separate screened metal compartments.

Sound complicated?  It shouldn't be if you consider it at the point of design/installation.  It's well worth the trouble.  If you've spent good money on a quality audio system, a few minutes of planning time is all that is needed to allow it to perform at its best.  Oh, and good cables, but that's another story!

Best regards,

Steve.

BeoSoto:

bayerische:

timhanna:

Can I ask why from Denmark? Is it cheaper?

 

Yes, by far. 

Well, this always depends on where you live and what taxes you have to pay. Also, who is going to install and transport the product to your home? Cheaper by far? I doubt it...

Well I live in Finland, no taxes to pay (EU).

I'm now back home with my Beolab's.

Total cost for a used mint condition par with my travels, 8700 euro.

 Install?

Matter of plug and play? :) 

But I have one question,

There's a pretty noticeable  background "buzz" in the sound...

Clue? 

I'm running it via the supplied powerlink cables from my beocenter 2300.

The "whizz" sort of sound is only audible from the top treable.

But it's late here now, and I just got home with them, so I'm listening at a very low volume, since I don't want to wake the whole house,,, 

Hi,

I suspect that the Powerlink cables supplied with your system are probably mark 1, without the voltage reference wire fitted.  This would explain the humming noise and other unwanted interference.

I would strongly recommend that you replace these with the correct cables, it is a very small cost compared to the value of the speakers.  Contact Lee at LifeStyle AV for cables, or you can get more information from the website address below.

Best regards,

Steve.

Well mine seems to be the original ones supplied...

And they are fully pinned. And aprox 3mm in diameter.

Can anyone confirm I have the right cable?

The diameter of the cable is about 3mm , the ends are fully pinned.

Is this MK2 or MK3?

Hi bayerische,

I think you may have mark 1 cables there?  Unfortunately, it can be very hard to tell which ones you have as they are all fully pinned and between 2mm and 4mm thick.  Look for triangles marked on the plugs to show original B&O mark 3 cables.  Otherwise, there is no sure way to tell without a multimeter.

However, the fact that you said you are getting noise through the cable makes me 95% sure that you have the wrong cables for your Beolab 5!  Personally, I would want new cables anyway, after spending that sort of money on new speakers, but maybe I'm just too fussy!

Best regards,

Steve.