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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012 READ ONLY FORUM
This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and
1st March February 2012
Latest post 09-24-2008 9:26 PM by Phil Hunt. 11 replies.
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09-12-2008 4:41 PM
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Medogsfat
- Joined on 02-21-2007
- *Moderator* Leeds, Yorkshire
- Posts 4,045
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Re: Beogram Bozzo OR Collector?
Hi Phil, good luck with project - truly wonderful decks when you get them going. As for the plastic "nose" I assume you mean the cage type thingy which is glued to the cartridge body to protect the stylus. If so then it may be worth a try sending member John Barker a PM as I gave him a dud MMC20S and I'm sure he'll forward it to you if he still has it - he's a thoroughly decent chap (like all us Yorkshiremen) Chris.
The use of metaphors should be avoided like the plague. They're like a red rag to a bull to me.
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tournedos
- Joined on 12-08-2007
- Finland
- Posts 5,808
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Re: Beogram Bozzo OR Collector?
Well, I hope you were at least warned, Phil
I believe there was a plethora of different variants of this model, but the main difference will be whether you have an AC motor (earlier types) or DC motor (later) driving the platter. AC versions will have four large caps lying neatly side by side near the motor, I presume the DC versions won't (I've never seen the insides of them myself). The actual motor driver circuit will be very different, the rest of the machine about the same.
The CD4 decoder was an option on 4002 as well; you might actually have the CD4/OFF switch hiding under the right edge of the wood frame, even though the actual decoder wasn't there. If it's there, it's a large PCB, almost the size of the main board, and located partly under the keyboard. And you'll of course find out when you try to play a record, since even the regular stereo outputs will be at line level if you have the decoder... I have a 6000 (basically a 4002 with the decoder as standard) and it's a little bit noisy while driving the arm fast as well. I believe it's the arm servo motor itself that makes the noise. Enjoy it nevertheless! From time to time, I find myself clicking the on button and watching the arm go back and forth over an empty platter
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Peter
- Joined on 02-12-2007
- Posts 9,572
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Re: Beogram Bozzo OR Collector?
You need an earth from the chassis which should eliminate the hum. It normally travels along the cable to the casing of the DIN plug.
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Phil Hunt
- Joined on 12-30-2007
- NW NJ USA
- Posts 92
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A week has passed-I just got a DIN adapter and several bulbs to try as the "33" bulb is burned out. Properly connected to my system both cartridges play fine-excellent! And after a little lubing, the arm sevo system is much quieter. All functions seem good. However, if I try putting any new bulb across the 33 circuit, the machine shifts to 45 and lights that/good bulb. And if I try to put the new/test bulb in parallel w/45 bulb (a good way to see if they are of matched intensity/wattage I'd think), the machine shifts down to 33 again, energizing the dead 33 lamp circuit w/22.3v. This is of course exactly what Mehahem described and repaired in his "4002 problems/solutions" at the top of this forum. So now I have what seems to be a well functioning, quite presentable 4002 with a great and a not so great cartridge (4000 missing guard, and mmc20CL new or near new) that doesn't illuminate the 33 lamp and will not until several components are replaced...and while it's apart I should replace "all electrolytic and tanatalum capacitors as follows..." because-well just because. So now I have another turntable I don't need that I'll want to do everthing to if I keep it, that works just fine other than not lighting a speed indicator-GREAT! I'll need one of two things from this group-either someone rescue me and take it off my hands, or someone coach me: how to ID tantalum and electrolytic caps/should I really replace them all (Dillen's 8000/8002 kit leaves at least 2 electrolytics alone)/ should I get exact replacement bulbs (OE bulb #8230052 24V/40mA, 60ohm) and where? Or something close Or the LED conversion which brings up the question: how does a simple beobozzo source the proper caps, diodes, LEDs, etc. Help me people-or do I need to go to a meeting! Phil PS: third possibility, prev mentioned: take me out in the yard and just shoot me!
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Medogsfat
- Joined on 02-21-2007
- *Moderator* Leeds, Yorkshire
- Posts 4,045
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Ah - welcome to the club of "us who have tables full of bits & pieces awaiting time, effort & technical pointers". Sorry I cannot help you with your current problem but I'm here to offer moral support - do you have a spare bullet by any chance? I'm sure my missus will pay you good money for it Chris.
The use of metaphors should be avoided like the plague. They're like a red rag to a bull to me.
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Dillen
- Joined on 02-14-2007
- Copenhagen / Denmark
- Posts 5,008
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This is how a tantal looks. Colors vary, the Beogram 400x series seems to be using mostly red ones. The lower lead in the photo, the lead nearest to the + is the positive. Tantals are normally very reliable components but depending (it seems) on how the machine was stored, tantals have begun causing problems in the tangential 400x series. Kits are in the making for these lovely decks, containing tantals, standard electrolytics, trimmers plus a bit more but there are several different versions and I don't have all equally well documented. Kit is ready for the 5501, I seem to remember but not the 5503. Info on versions I don't already have, usually pays for a kit ... Martin
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Dillen
- Joined on 02-14-2007
- Copenhagen / Denmark
- Posts 5,008
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Obviously, the ideal thing would be to replace all components in a Beogram to restore it to working condition but that's neither feasible nor practical. Instead, I try to target the kits in on components in stressed positions, components of problem brands and include the odd known trouble-makers. This will often see the kits skipping certain caps or even certain circuits or boards that, down to experience, never fail. Some cap kits even include resistors and/or other components simply because they are known to have a higher frequency of failing. You have an email regarding the 5503. Martin
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Phil Hunt
- Joined on 12-30-2007
- NW NJ USA
- Posts 92
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Martin-your email-box must now look like a clogged toilet: it will have 13 large files of 4002 pics. Sorry for the blockage. I am looking foward to your response and input. This 4002 seems to have the same syndrome regarding the 33 spd lamp blown/bad D6 diode that Meahem reported, an overheated/overheating 1R1 1W resistor off the power supply, and TR16 has scortched the circuitboard. And yours truly managed to touch the 80mA axial fuse while trying to measure voltage drop/current thru 1R1. Don't tell me how you have these fuses for a song-I spent hours on the net and scored 10 for $35-anybody need one? The strange thing is that, even with all these problems including the blown fuse, the unit functions fine other than not illuminating "33". So a new project is shaping up. This machine certainly differs from my 8002s. I'm looking foward to completing it and having a good bake-off: 4002 vs 8002. I think the 4000 will loose-its outnumbered. phil
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