I understood that this part was still available.  Which sources have you checked?

Neil

It seems to be discontinued, but i have seen it on some dealers websites... but not local, so I think i'll go for the BUT76 or the BUT12AF, which i can get..

http://www.nxp.com/#/pip/pip=[pip=BUT12F_1]|pp=[v=d,t=pip,i=BUT12F_1,fi=,ps=0][0]

Nobby, have you seen this fault before?

I have found following defects:

- TR1 short circuit (power part)

- TR33, TR20 short circuit (control part)

- Gotta check if L5 is still connected.. near the black hole ;)

The rest seem ok, but im gonna replace some the CAPS

Hi

I have tried to repair the power supply, and it seem ok, but the TV still don't power up. The red LED doesn't turn ON, and I can't hear anything...

Do you think the (PowerFailure) protection is activated?

Got any ideas? Could this indicate a problem or another module?

What I learned while fixing my MX6000 (thanks, guys!) is that when the BUT12 shorts, it can take some of its driver transistors with it (no wonder, they might receive the 300 or so volts from the suppy line for a moment until the fuse blows).

I used a BUT12AF. The only specs I can see differing from the A'less version is a slightly smaller CE saturation current (5 vs 6 amps), but the maximum voltage is larger (1000 vs 750 volts), so I guess it can actually take more punishment than the original BUT12F.

From what I understand, the powerfail system won't be doing anything until you have a working standby (because the CPU isn't even running due to lack of supply), so don't worry about it yet.

hi tournedos

I replaced both TR20 and TR33 (driver transistors), they both were short circuited... And i also used a BUT12AF instead of the BUT12F.

 The stange thing is that nothing happens, the fuse doesnt blow and the TV makes no sound at all..

 Need to get some other clamps, so i can measuere what happens.. but maybe I have overlooked something on the board

yep, it's ok...hhmm