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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012

This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and 1st March February 2012


Latest post 04-14-2008 3:14 AM by tournedos. 1 replies.
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  • 04-13-2008 5:32 PM

    • mort2578
    • Not Ranked
    • Joined on 04-13-2008
    • Silkeborg
    • Posts 2
    • Bronze Member

    4002 blows fuse


    I have got a Beogram 4002 which blows the fuses in the black plastic box near the transformer. At first, it blew the right fuse when the tonearm was to lower. This happened both when doing it automatically and manually. I figured that it could be the electromagnet that short-circuited, so I removed the wires and tried again. This time the fuse didn't blow. I installed the electromagnet from a Beogram 4000 with a broken tonearm, and it seemed to work. Well, unfortunately only for about 10 seconds. Then it blew the left fuse. Does anyone have an idea to what might cause this problem?

    Another thing is; according to various specifications the Beogram 4002 is only a stereo turntable. However, on the right-hand side of the unit is a CD4/OFF switch and the sound cable is quite thick. This ends in two RCA plugs, but this is obviously not the factory default. Can it be that I have found an upgraded 4002? Or is it just made in the same way as the 6000 but without the circuits that produce the CD4 sound?



  • 04-14-2008 3:14 AM In reply to

    Re: 4002 blows fuse

    The CD4 decoder board was available as an option for 4002, but it was pretty rare. I guess there's a place for the switch on all 4002 chassi? If you can find the type number on your player, it should confirm if you have an original 4002. Even if you don't need the CD4 function - it's hard and/or expensive to find a cartridge that can do that nowadays, let alone CD4 records that haven't been destroyed - it doubles as an excellent quality RIAA preamp. Should be even better once you upgrade the caps on the board: 

    ...but I've yet to do this on my 6000. 

    I have a theory on the fuse problem, but it might be far fetched. The solenoid works pretty much like the one in car starter motors, it takes a lot of current to pull and then the circuit drops to a low current "hold" state while the tone arm is down to keep the current requirements sensible. I don't have the schematics here with me now, but I seem to recall that the solenoid had a contact (just like a relay) which controlled the hold current. Maybe you have a bad contact or loose wire/solder joint somewhere, and the solenoid is being pulled with the higher current all the time and that blows the fuse.


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