I have finally plucked up the courage to make my first post, even though I must admit that I have regularly been following all of your activities for several years now.  As an avid Beofan, richly endowed with numerous old and new B&O units that I have collected over my life time, everyone on your site has contributed in some way to my knowledge and understanding of these great products.  Thank you all.

Over the last few weeks, I have been repairing my Beogram 6006 which after working nicely for many years had suddenly ceased to perform for a number of reasons.  As is more often the case, one traces through the heavy details and finally unearths some simple issues.  In this case, the switching transistor 0TR1 had broken loose from the plastic mounts on the floor and has now been ingeniously fixed back in place with a good heat sink.  That lead to finding that two of the light bulbs had blown and the photo resistance control systems were not working.  Funny how two bulbs went at the same time?  The one bulb on the back of the keyboard has been fairly easy to fix so that one is OK.  So what is the problem now?

The second light bulb is the one under the pickup arm that regulates the stepping motor and my question is quite simple, how does one remove that small PCB to fit the new bulb.  I have tried to prise it out gently but reckon that the wires are going to snap if I continue.  My thoughts are now to dismantle the whole of the sliding assembly but before I embark on that exercise, I thought that I should get help from someone who has done that task many times.  If anyone can provide me with a short list of the simple does and don’ts of taking out that particular PCB, I would be very pleased to hear from you.

Thanks again

Thanks for the acknowledgement Jandyt, I never thought that I had asked such a difficult and testing question.  Anyway, the PCB is still inside his home and I won't move it until I get some good advice.  Can't believe no one has done this job before. 

Thanks again for the reply, my confidence was disappearing fast, put me down as a strong contender for the hardest B&O question competition

Geoff

I would love to answer the question if only I was sure I knew the answer. I do remember that many years ago I had a similar problem and I had to go in from underneath the tonearm carriage to get to the little PCB board. In other words, you need to turn the carriage upside down or lift it to near horizontal and remove a cover of some sort. I am not 100% sure though.

Martin

I just tried this on an 8000 that is in pieces. I assume that you've removed the sheet metal top cover that the beam interrupter arm plunges thru to expose the PCB w/bulb that's inside the plastic housing.

I pulled off the little piece of clear plastic tubing that keeps the wiring in the routing guide and was able to free up enough harness to be able to lift the board out enough of the plastic housing to have been able to easily de-solder and replace the small bulb. I'd imagine that the 6006 is the same.

I'd try that, and if you fail, I could sell you a tonearm assy cheaply. phil

Thanks for all of the input.  It is becoming apparent that there is no quick way to access that particular PCB from above, so I think that I have no option but to remove the complete sliding assembly and access the connections from below.  I was trying to avoid doing that because I know that there is a high risk that the plastic supports are going to break when I try to pull the rails out.  I’ll just have to apply lots of oil and take it very gently. 

Phil,  Thanks for the offer of the new assembly, I might just take you up on that but I’ll see how the original one copes first.  I’ll let you know how everything pans out.  

Geoff

My experince pulling the rails up is that the plastic doesn't get brittle.

Just get something like a skinny screwdriver under it adjacent to the clip and pry straight up. Get the front rod out first, then the rear one. You may want to park the tonearm midway on the tracks before starting: it's easier to get the leadscrew carrier tit into the tonearm carriage socket when you reassemble, and makes the RR end of the rear rod easier to access; also, you won't have to worry about holding the end of cycle microswitch arm out of the way when you reset the carriage. If you took it apart in the park position, you can spin the leadscrew carrier "nut" by hand until it gets in the middle. I scribe a pair of lines in the back of the carriage to indicate the position of the tit socket underneath the tonearm carriage so I can align them with the tit when reassembling. Good luch-phil

Thanks for the tips Phil, very helpful indeed, I'll give it a go when I get back home from overseas.

 Geoff

Latest update 

Thought that I would let you know that I did manage to remove the entire sliding assembly without breaking anything.  That small PCB was able to be taken out after slackening off all of the wires, providing just enough room to solder on a new lamp.  The old lamp had a broken wire, right on the entry point on the globe.  All has been re-assembled now and everything works once again.  Thanks for the help, your advice came in very useful.

Geoff