Well so first bypass the decoder.

You need to eliminate all possible faults. It  may well be components on the decoder.

Actually you can still swap L+R going into the decoder. If the low output does not swap then it may be the decoder.

Menahem has lots of experience with the 6000 decoder board if that indeed is the problem but there is always the possibility of fixing something that ain't really broke :)

I removed the riaa/cd4 boards. If I connect the 9 pin male plug to the 9 pin female will I harm something? Will I get a standard 4002?

thanx

Loris

1. Remove your MMC cartridge/stylus.

2. Press play, and connect your multimeter (VDC) - one probe to chassis, and one probe testing each one of the 9-pin female sockets - see if there's any voltage there in any of the sockets.

3. If there is DC voltage, then don't connect the 9-pin male-lead into the socket.

4. The male connector has only line-out (no DC voltage), so you do not want to introduce DC onto that connection.

5. Because the MMC is now out, you can trace the finger connections on the tracking-arm to the 9-pin female connector. Use your multimeter in the Ohms or Continuity function. Make a diagram, and write them down.

6. Post that diagram back on the forum here.

Even if I'm not much into electronics, according to the manual ( section 3/11) this operation can't be done. There are 3 pins with 12V dc for the power supply of the Riaa/cd4.

Loris

 

Excellent! Good work!

So, now you understand why you don't just go connecting 9-pin males into 9-pin females, even though they look like they are compatible.

So now, referring to the Service Manual, find the Front Left and Front Right wires on the 9-pin FEMALE, and CAREFULLY solder them to 2 thin insulated wires, and those to the Front Left and Front Right wires on the 9-pin MALE connector.

You can then connect the BG6000 to any amplifier with a built-in Phono-amp, and listen to the results.

Menahem

 

 

I removed the riaa/cd4 board and made this connection, but the hum is higher than the music.

I checked the cable and it's ok, but always high hum...

Loris

 

 

You probably need to run a ground wire from the chassis of the Beogram to the earthing screw on your amp.

I run a wire from the earthing screw of the amp to the ground of the din exit cable, where there's a cap between the wire and the chassis.

Completely no hum but the sound is poor. I'll check why.

Loris

Loris,

Did you ever get this working?

I have just restored another BG6000 - type 5505, identical to yours, and among the many other problems, there was no sound from the left-front and left-rear channels. Voltage, yes, but the scope showed no sound.

The problem turned out to be a cold solder joint on C12, the timing capacitor on pin 9 for IC2 - LM565CN. Just for good measure, I resoldered the entire PCB.

I replaced all the electrolytics and tantalum capacitors - shortly, I'll write up a full thread.

Menahem

Hi Manahem,

actually I didn't solve the problem. After the removal of the phono board, I did the right connections, I have left and right signal  but I still have a lot of hum. I hadn't much time to look inside the problem. With the board connected, I hadn't this kind of problem, but only one channel worked. I thought it was an easy work, remove and reconnect but........ :-(

Loris

tournedos:

You probably need to run a ground wire from the chassis of the Beogram to the earthing screw on your amp.

Well I did this but a certain amount of hum (unacceptable) did remain. I did a lot of trying, touching here and there with the ground wire but apart from a little reduction the hum was always there. It COMPLETELY/ABSOLUTELY stopped when I run a wire from the earthing screw of the amp to the aluminium "box" of the carriage. I mean COMPLETELY. EUREKA. Now: the carriage moves. Where do I screw a wire that makes the same effect? Why do this happen?

 

 

Loris

I definitely solved the problem running a wire from pin 5 of the 9 pin plug to the earthing screw of the amp :-)

Loris

Just like to mention i just followed your recipe with my Beogram 4004, running smoothly except the tone arm would not lower. It had not been played for 16 years. Just a couple of clicks - no tonearm reaction. After some sewing machine oil onto the specified areas - voila - tone arm lowered! Thank you for the tip.

That's fine, but you MUST disassemble the pivot points and clean out the old gunk, before putting in new oil.

The reason is quite simple - with the old gunk in there, the solenoid is working very hard to overcome the friction, drawing a fortune of current, and is heating up, drastically shortening its lifetime.

With the gunk removed, it's working effortlessly, and cool. You can check the difference with an ammeter - it's quite interesting to see the difference in current draw with a gunked up machine, as opposed to a clean machine.