Now I understand why the part number 244 in the 6000 manual is called " housing with lamp".

The lamp is completely stuck into the housing

It will be a hard work to replace it....

Loris

Yes, dremel'ing or drilling it out could be the only way.

Martin

Loris,

Could you please post a picture of the PCB and housing to which you are referencing - I certainly did not have any problems removing any housings or lamps when I replaced all of them with LED's.

Only 2 incandescent lamps remained on mine - on the Flip-flop circuit, and inside the tangential arm - that's all. All the rest were replaced by LED's.

Menahem

Reminds me of the dial bulb on my '70s Beomaster 2000's - seems it's a glass socket bulb fitted very tightly. In the case of the Beogram shutter, it probably needs to be fixed well, as any movement might affect the settings of the shutter.

On one of these, the bulb came off by simply twisting (use some cloth between the pliers and the bulb base so it won't crack so easily). But quite as probably it will break just as the other of mine did. I managed to dig out the remains of the old bulb anyway to fit in a T5 socketed glass bulb.

If it still doesn't come out, I guess it is Dremeling time as Dillen suggested... or maybe you could find an even smaller bulb that would fit inside the glass envelope of the old one, or maybe file down a 3 mm LED.

I've never seen this particular housing as I never had to go in that deep in my BG6000, but I suppose it's simply a molded plastic piece? It might be possible to just split it in half with a thin cutting/saw blade, remove the bulb or what's left of it, and use some thick glue as filling to put it back together again.

But first, make double sure that the bulb really is blown before destroying it! Try feeding external power to it, or just measure the bulb's resistance - I suppose it should show a few hundred ohms...

Well I managed to remove the bulb. Unfortunately my camera is on repair .... and there is no resistance when I use a ohmmeter....... after some hour : definitely burnt ( I looked at it with a magnifying lens)

Loris

this is a bad picture taken with a phone

Yes, but where does it come from in the actual turntable - from which PCB? I understand that there was some confusion about this.

Here is the picture. You can see the hole of the photosensor and the small plastic box.

Hi Loris,

Yes, I remember changing this lamp (OIL2) to an LED, and my notes state that I used a 1KOhm 1W resistor to drop the 22.8VDC to 3VDC for the LED.

On this circuit, it doesn't matter which side you put the resistor, whatever is most convenient for you.

It was not an especially difficult job, otherwise I would have made more notes on it.

No drilling or any other special work was required.

You can see a picture of this job, if you go back to the first page of this thread, to the 2nd article - March 09-2008 12:05pm. See the picture with the red circles for lubrication, and to the left of the tangential arm, you'll see the 1KOhm resistor and the white plastic shield which I added. That's the exact job.

Menahem

I've found a small lamp 25v-50 ma that should fit. I bought it in a shop near me and I payed it 1 euro. Seems a christmas tree lamp, and maybe it actually is

http://www.webtronic.it/pages/ITA/prodotto.asp?ProdottoID=3250

Manahem, can you tell me what did you use to fill the small enclosure where the lamp ( in your case led) is fixed? It's some kind of non conductive glue that doesn't stick too much to the the plastic enclosure

I leaned the lamp on the contacts and it works

Now I only have to glue it to the plastic support.....

Loris

This is the new lamp in the enclosure ( waiting for the glue to dry ) and the old burnt lamp with the hardened glue around the wires

Loris,

24V LED's:

No 24V LED's available - if you consider that an LED is in fact a diode, then you can understand why the chances of ever having a 24V Diode are pretty near impossible.

The first diodes were Germanium, in the 1950's and had a Vf (Forward Voltage) drop of about 0.3-0.5V. Silicon diodes, developed later, were more stable, with much less leakage, but had higher Vf's - about 0.7 - 1.2V. The higher the Vf, the hotter the diode, and correspondingly the greater the waste of electricity.

Today with the push to run everything on batteries, and make the devices last longer while running on batteries, technology has pushed the average Vf on Silicon diodes down to 0.4-0.8V, exactly the opposite of what you'd like to see on a LED with a Vf of 24V. That imaginary 24V LED would be a toaster with the heat generated!

So, I think that we're going to see LED's drop their Vf even further down from the current Vf's of 1.8V-3.3V, to less than 1V in the future.

Glueing the leads:

I sprayed the inside of the black housing with silicon spray to make it slippery. I then put the LED's leads in and filled the cavity with hot-glue. That way, the hot-glue dries solid into the form of a block, but I can easily remove it if I need to, without resorting to invasive or destructive methods.

Menahem

yachadm:

Glueing the leads:

Nice idea. I thought about hot glue but I switched to paper glue in stick. It's a paste I could easily put inside the cavity and I guess I'll be able to easily remove it. Just waiting for it to dry before fitting it in the 6000

.... and the light was..... the lamp worked.... but the carriage didn't I had to work on the "adjustment of shutter". I moved a little the "eccentric B" ( page 4-7 of the manual) and then for the first time the carriage worked

Loris

Excellent, congratulations!

There are of course a lot of other adjustments and they all should probably be checked in correct order when parts have been replaced. But, if you have now managed to get it to track correctly, and the arm stays very near parallel to the sensor arm while playing, I'd just let it be for a while and enjoy playing some records

Well Beoworld community, with your help now everything seems fine and I like the sound of this turntable (along  with the beomaster 5500 and beovox s60 speakers). Later I'll check all the arm setups. Now I have a problem: there is a bump when the disc ends and the arm rises. How do I get rid of this "bump"?

Thanx

Loris

That fault is probably in the muting / silent circuit - I have it as well, but haven't bothered to look into it yet.

In 4002/4004 the muting is done with a relay, but in BG6000 it's electronic and integrated into the CD-4 decoder. I seem to remember Menahem found a faulty diode in his BG6000 that caused this?

I have another problem the left channel is lower than the right one. I have an image between the center of the speakers and the right one. I swapped the speakers and changed the input from aux to tape 1 and it's the same. The 5005 I have doesn't give this image and also the cd player doesn't.

???

Thanx

Loris

The muting relay is always suspect and is the obvious place to look.

But there are some not so obvious places to look as well:

1) Is cartridge functioning properly?
2) Any dirty contacts on the cartridge connector on edge connector?
3) Check solder connections on shielded cable INSIDE the DIN shell. Also check other end of shielded connector for cracked solder joints/frayed wires.

I have found cracked joints many times before inside the DIN shells.

Derek

I'll start to check

Loris

The diode was a Germanium AA143, crosses to NTE110A.

I have one AA143 left, if by chance, it is the same diode.

But remember, a Germanium diode has a normal Vf of about 0.25V, whereas if you saw that value on a silicon rectifier, it would be faulty.

Menahem

I thought  I had  fixed the problem. I remade solder connections inside din cable and cleaned the 5 pins.But the image is still on the right.

Loris

ps Manahem, thanx for your offer. Will it be an easy task? I don't even know where is it...

Hi, R U all in vacation? What should I do now?

Loris

Well....

Take the cartridge off of the tone arm.

Press play and wait till the tone are releases and the mute relay engaged. Then use the continuity function of your multi meter and check for continuity/resistance from the din shell to the fingers on the tone arm.

If all is well then most likely you have a bad cartridge.

You may also try to swap L+R wires inside the din shell. If the lower output channel moves from one to the other then it is likely also the cartridge.  If not then perhaps its your amp!

It's all deduction at this point.

auric:

You may also try to swap L+R wires inside the din shell. If the lower output channel moves from one to the other then it is likely also the cartridge.

this is true if there isn't a phono stage inside the 6000, but it's there. if this board has some bad component...... this could be the problem

Loris