I am trying to install a cona into a setup with Beolink Passive powering two front RL60.2 and another passive powering two rear S45-2.

All connected to Beosytem 1 with a beolab 4000 as center.

I am not sure how to put the cona into the set-up

1. Do i need a seperate amp for subwoffer fed from BS1 subwoofer powerlink or

2. Can I loop one fo the channel from an existing amp to the 45-2 in rear or 60.2 in front.

Thanks for input

Pretty sure you would need a seperate amp fed from the BS1's Subwoofer powerlink.

 

 

Craig

Thanks for the quick reply - anybody out there using cona and have similar set-up?

If I recall correctly the BeoVox Cona was initial released to fill out the sound of the then BeoVox Bookshelf speakers, that being the C30/40/75 & CX50/100 speakers which were connected inline thus your passive amp was connected directly to Cona itself via the two seperate corresponding IN (L and R) connection on the bottom and then each bookshelf was then connected from the Cona via their corresponding OUT (L and R) connections depending on their location.

You could try this and see how it works for you in regards to the overall sound.  Though you would need to most likely get a hold of a external mixer called a "DTS box", thus you could connect both the FRT and SUB via PL connection from the BS1!  This way there would be no need for an additional BeoLnk Passive.  If not you would need to have a seperate BeoLink Passive which would be connected to Sub out via PL from the back of the BS1 to connect the Cona.

In my setup I have the front and sub out from the BS1 running into a DTS box from which my two front speakers are connected those being BeoLab 1s and then a PL cable running from one of the BeoLab 1s to the Beolink Passive to which the BeoVox Cona is connected.

Check out Beophiles posting in the 'Beosystem1 and rs232' for the reasoning behind the external mixer "DTS box" and the BeoSystem 1!  The "DTS box" is a solution by B&O that was sold to BL5 customers that also utilized a BeoSystem 1 in their setup.  Beophile does an excellent job explaining the issues present with the BeoSystem 1 and sub channel and why the DTS box came to be so to speak.

Depends on what you want to do with the Cona. If you want it to play the subwoofer (LFE) channel of the BS1, you have no choice but to install yet another amp for it.

If you just want to augment the bass of the front channel speakers, install it inline with them just as you would in a stereo setup.

Although I don't really know anything about the BS1 - if it has a feature to direct the LFE and center channels to the front channels (called "phantom center" or something), the latter option could work. I doubt it though.

Indeed, the only way to make the Cona work without buying anything else will be to connect it to the BeoLink passive, then run the left & right cables from the Cona to the RL speakers.

However, as said previously, the Cona was intended for use with the CX speakers, that have a 6 Ohm impedance, while the RL is rated at 8 Ohm like most other BeoVox speakers.

 

 

 

 

http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/t/35260.aspx

Is this the DTS box - luckily I have it

I guess the question still remains.

DO I need an amplifier to take the PL from DTS to Cona?

I just answered myself -

I guess the solution is to feed the Beolink passsive from the "FRONT OUT" on DTS ( one of two - please see this ) and then loop the output to RL from the Cona - I wonder how does the ohms difference will effect the sound. Since the cona is 6 ohms and RL 60.2 are 8 ohms - any pointers

Thanks

Actually this is something I have been trying to figure out lately (today in fact!), when a speaker is connected to the Cona, is it connected in series?

Would each voice coil in the Cona be 6ohms per?

EDIT

Parallel = 3.429 ohms

Series = 14 ohms

Is this right?

Yup those photos that you have posted are that of the infamous "DTS box"

Yes you do need to place either a BeoLink Passive or a MCL2P inbetween the 'DTS box' and the Cona!

Not sure exactly how the Ohms will effect the overall sound of you RL 60.2!  Seeing that from the Product specs of each item both the BeoLink Passive and the BeoVox RL 60.2 Passive Loudspeakers are listed as 8 ohms while the BeoVox Cona Passive Subwoofer reflects 6 ohms..  Even the MCL2P states 8 ohms in its product specs.

From what little I have read if the Cona L&R Out connections pass the 6 ohms impedence on to your RL 60.2 8 ohms passive speaker they will still work but the volume will never be as loud as if you ran the speakers on 8 ohms impedence.  Someone correct me if I am wrong in regards to that.

The 2 short cables (never measured) but I believe .5m but no longer then 1m which came with the 'DTS box' run from my BeoSystem 1 to the box itself, then I run what ever cables came with my BeoLab 1s from the 'DTS box' out to the speakers.

I use the typical PL Cable 8/8 pin (heard it referred to as fully wired) to connect from my BeoLab 1 to the BeoLink Passive, which to my knowledge is the current PL cable that B&O uses. At least that is cable that my dealer has ever sent me for all the various cable length that I have order through them over the past year or so.  I recall a post on the forums talking about it as well that B&O uses that PL cable 8/8 pin "fully wired" for all installation now even for their BeoLabs which orginial come with mk3 cables.

If the overall sound running the RL 60.2 off the Cona isn't to your ears like (compared to when by themselves) then I would say, yes you will need to get an additional BeoLink Passive or an addition MCL2P to run from the 2nd 'Front OUT' on the DTs box to them.

Hope that helped a little, apologize for not getting back you sooner.

 

Much appreciated input...Thanks again to all!!

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Tested the installation with beolink passive feeding both cona and RL 6000 in series.

Result:

Did not like the output.

Could be the Cona itself or the fact that I dont have a dedicated amp just for Cona. The bass was missing and honestly the setup sounded better without Cona. The "woomph" was missing when Cona was part of Installation. Could be some thing wrong with my setup and also the 8/6 ohms mix ma be cause - Cant say

Woud certainly want to know more about Cona's performance from users out there...just cant beleive that this subwoofer did not do any good in my setup. Infact I took Cona out from the setup and sounds much better...I did change the BS1 sub woofer level to max with not much difference to output.

May be adding a dedicated amp will do the trick...sad to see the Cona investment not bearing fruits - looking to gt another MCL2P

Please chime in with more opinions on Cona

Changing the subwoofer output on your BS1 will only change the dedicated output. With the way you setup your equipment, the overall bass parameter would be controlling the low end. The best route for you is to get yourself an extra amp and feed the Cona independantly.

I have two Conas and I adore them. In stereo they are phenomenal, each are being fed with well over 100W rms directly. Doesn't seem to phase them a bit! Placement will also change the way they sound. My advice would be to place it as far in front of you as possible. My Conas output to an 8ohm speaker so that should not be the problem because I am overly satisfied with my result.

 

Encouraging to read....will try to get a dedicated amp for the Cona and see how it behaves.

 

It will sound like a whole different animal! All of the low frequency effects are sent to the subwoofer channel so you should definitely notice the difference.

I use a Cona as my sub in my setup (5 x CX100). My setup has just been upgraded from an AV7000 to Beosystem1.

Yes....I use 4! MCL2p's. One for the front L/R, one for the back L/R one for the center and one dedicated to the cona sub.

Works very satisfactory......just ask my neighbours ;) 

The beosystem1 really requires all speakers to be beolabs to function properly. No real shortcuts possible I'm afraid.

 

cooldude:

Yes....I use 4! MCL2p's. One for the front L/R, one for the back L/R one for the center and one dedicated to the cona sub.

I guess in principle you could use custom cables to split the 3rd amp between center & LFE channels (both mono) and save one amp. In practice however, I'm afraid at least the sub would be badly lacking in power...

Instead of getting a new MCL2P just for cona, can i use a older beomaster 5000 to power it up. Is this ok to do. I would like to use the beomaster to power the front and may be swap the beolink passive for Cona. Thanks

Can't see why not - just get a Powerlink to RCA adapter from Sounds Heavenly or something, adjust the volume suitably and off you go... But the daily operations, like power on & off of the entire mess will soon get pretty complicated.

Do you think the volume cannot be controlled using the beo4 on BS1. If thats the case i can seehow bad it will be....in fact i was hoping i could use the beomaster 5000 to power both the front and cona with DTS box set up as BM5000 has two din outs. I still want to confirm if i can control the volume and power on off using beo4 on BS1 as its now With MCL2P. Thanks

sodoi18:

Do you think the volume cannot be controlled using the beo4 on BS1.

That shouldn't be a problem, just adjust the 5000 to a fixed volume level so that it "plays along" with the other channels, and it will follow them. BM5000 remembers the last source and you can store the volume setting, so after initial setup, you'd only need to push on the front panel (unless you have a remote) to turn it on & off.

sodoi18:

in fact i was hoping i could use the beomaster 5000 to power both the front and cona with DTS box set up as BM5000 has two din outs.

I don't think the result of that would be much different from your earlier try with the Cona inline with the front RLs. A little more bass left for the front channels, maybe.

Buy all you need to experiment with all this is the Powerlink adapter cable. I'm just speculating, but you have the kit!   If the end result with the 5000 isn't satisfactory for some reason, you can still replace it with a MCL2P any time later and all you've lost is the price of the adapter.

What you could do right now is to give the BM5000 + Cona  + RL combo a test drive, just standalone playing stereo music. If you're not happy with the RLs in one speaker outputs and the cona in the other pair, it's not going to impress you when fed by the BS1 either.