New member and new to forums, so please be patient. I need to know the value of the 2 fuses on my 4004 Turntable. I believe on the fuse box is says .125 (1/8 amp). I just want to verify this is the correct value.

Thanks

Jim

Welcome to Beoworld !

If they are the mains fuses - and I suppose they are - their value
will depend on your mains voltage.

Martin

US 110 VAC

Thanks

To make sure you get it right, a check in the correct service manual for that exact type
of deck is needed. I am referring to the 4-digit type number beginning with 53xx or 55xx
found at the serial number label.

Martin

Martin,

Thanks, I do not have the table in front of me so I will have to look at it tonight. I am in Pacific time zone.

Will let you know late tonight or Wed.

Thanks Again

Martin,

The number is 5527. That is inside on the black box where the power comes in.

On the fuse box it says 2 x ,125 with some letters after it. Yes, that is a comma which is what is used in Europe for a ".".

Thanks

Yes, that is 125mA.
The following letter will tell the type of fuse needed;
T = slow blow
M = medium
F = fast blow

Did a fuse blow ?

Martin

Martin,

I just purchased the table. it was supposed to be working properly. After I changed the ac plug and made sure the switch on the bottom was set to 110  it would not turn on. The fuses were blown possibly prior to me plugging it in. I need to get some fuses and try it again. Then send an email to the person if it blows again.
Another item is the arm. It wants to spring over to the optical arm, (not stay parallel).
I will check the other letters when I get home tonight.

Thanks

If it was previously used with 220-240V, the fuses will have to be doubled in current rating
when put to use with 110-120V.
That's ohms law.

The tonearm issue doesn't sound good.

Martin

Martin,

With the fuses replaced the platter turns as expected, (both 33 and 45).

The arm has some major issues. Stopping will eventually return the arm to the right but the motor keeps running until you either push the carridge to the right , unplug the table or use one of the other buttons. With the arm wanting to be agianst the optical arm, well, that is a problem in itself. I might be searching for a good repair place hopefully on the West Coast. In the mean time, I have contacted the seller via email, so we shall see.

Thanks for your help

Dillen:

If it was previously used with 220-240V, the fuses will have to be doubled in current rating
when put to use with 110-120V.

I need some clarification... How does this work w/ Beo that has the rotary voltage selector? I thought you simply set the rotary dial to the correct voltage and go. I have a BG4000 that was previously in a 220-240v country that I have yet to test. Should I change the fuses?

Thanks!

Dillen:

If it was previously used with 220-240V, the fuses will have to be doubled in current rating
when put to use with 110-120V.
That's ohms law.

Martin

In theory,maybe.

I can find no mention of the need for doubling the fuse rating in the installation  instructions or the preparation for use after transportation details.

B&O obviously don't agree with you Martin!!!!

I hope they do.

I have the Beomaster 8000 service manual in front of me
right now and it gives different specs for the mains fuses (F2 and F3)
depending on the mains voltage (Page 4-6) but it may not be like that
in all service manuals and some items may have
their fuses dimensioned to accept the mains current at all
the possible voltages.
I have also seen cases where danish service manuals give a certain
rating for the mains fuses where US manuals give the double.
I would never take it for granted that a fuse calculated for use in 220-240V
areas would be fine for use in 110-120V areas.

Let's take Jaff's Beogram 4000;
The service manual schematics give the fuses as 250mA.
Given 240V mains and the tech data specs 40W power consumption, the mains current
calculates to apprx. 160mA. That's well within the normal operating range of the fuse.
However, given 115V and the same 40W power consumption, the current calculates
to apprx. 350mA which is more than 15% too high for the fuse.
I remember having a Beogram 4000 here from Canada a couple of years ago. Its mains fuse
continued to blow almost everytime the tonearm was lowered. It had been serviced locally
a couple of times (IIRC) but without much success. I got curious and asked the owner
to ship it to me, which he did.
The first thing I checked was that the fuses were correct, which they were but a little
calculating and replacing with 500mA types sorted the problem.
Later, I found out the Beogram was imported to Canada from Germany.

The Beogram 4002/4004 uses about half the power of a Beogram 4000 and
the fuses are the same as in the 4000 (250mA) which in this case is fine.

Martin

One thing I have experienced is that after transit the rear lift arm has jumped out of the v section used to raise / lower the arm. Try the following...

Remove the lid by first sticking the back of the record player over the edge of a table and open the lid, then locate and slightly LOOSEN the two flat bladed screws that can be found countersunk either side under the unit.

Now carefully slide the hole lid assembly off toward the rear - It is important that the lid is open and you hold it all securely throughout this procedure.

You can now lift the aluminium cover off over the back of the arms by simply gripping and lifting up.

Look at the back of the arm assembly, from the rear. You will see a piece of flat metal attached to the arm weights, which has a V cut into it. There should be a vertical piece of metal that sits in that V. If not, then the arm has slipped and you will find the vertical piece behind the flat horizontal piece first described above, which is why your arm might be offset. To remedy this simply lift the vertical piece up (it is pivoted just below the plate) and recenter the arm if it doesn't do so automatically.

Then if all ok Martin above generally has all the parts you could possibly want!

BTW You can always take pics if you struggle.

Dillen:

The first thing I checked was that the fuses were correct, which they were but a little
calculating and replacing with 500mA types sorted the problem.
Later, I found out the Beogram was imported to Canada from Germany.

That was Piaf's (Jeff's) BG4000 and I have read that thread several times.

I will check the fuses and replace w/ 500mA before firing up!

Thank you!

burantek:

Dillen:

The first thing I checked was that the fuses were correct, which they were but a little
calculating and replacing with 500mA types sorted the problem.
Later, I found out the Beogram was imported to Canada from Germany.

That was Piaf's (Jeff's) BG4000 and I have read that thread several times.

I will check the fuses and replace w/ 500mA before firing up!

Thank you!

OHMs Law

Thanks all. The BG4000 checks out!