I recently purchased a Beosound 3200 with Beolab 6000 speakers.  I currently have a Beomaster/Beogram CD/Beocord 3300 with Cona Sub & 4 x RL35's.

In order to give some more lower freq bass to the system I woul dlke to incorporate the cona: would I only need a Beolink passive amp to run to my the sub?

Thanks for the advance advice

Ken

Two problems:

1. Yes, you will need somthing like a MCL2P to frive the Cona.

2. The Cona does not produce that much bass - it is designed to fill in for the CX range which obviously needs upper bass. The 6000s actually are not too bad at this - it is the really low bass they don't do. You will also not remove the low frequencies from the 6000s, unlike wheen using an active sub-woofer or when using the Cona with CX speakers.

Thank you, Peter. 

I realize that this setup will no totally utilize the cona's crossover and remove the low end from the 6000's.  HOwever, since I already have the sub, why not give it a try.

IN your comment, you allude to the fact that an active sub would remove the low freq bass.  As I obviously don't have an active sub, how does that work?  Does one run cable frmo the Beosound through the sub then to the active speakers, in the same way the passives do?

Thx 

 

I read about the MCL2P , and actually found one available locally.  However, based onthe descrptions I have read: this amplifier allows for independent volume control of the passive speakers it is powering.  Since I am adding this locally (same room as the system), would I need to manually incerase/decrease the volume of the sub separately from the main system volume?

bump to the top!

 

Any info, anyone?

No. You'd be running the speaker link to the Cona first, using its banpass filter, and then onto the main speakers.

Volume control would then be global locally

B

B:I know I typed a response, but I guess I neglected to hit POST.

Recalling that the cona is passive and will require the MCL2P, are you recommending the setup as follows:

BS3200>MCL2P >Cona>Beolab 6000

I know you have integrated non- B&O equipment in just this fashion, but how does one connect frmo the cona (with only the dual speaker wire input/output) to the active BL 6000's?

Is there some other functionality that is lost by not running the Powerlink wiring directly to the 6000's or is it properly originated by use of the MCL2P in the first step?

Thanks   

 

I had made a special power-link break-out cable that goes from the master to an RCA input/output break-out for the sub, and then on to one of the PL speakers, which is then daisy0chained to the other.

Hope this helps

 

Barry

I see: technically this is the same way you ran the other sub we discussed, assume?  As discussed, it's a bit of work for a sub with less kick than will probably be noticable vs something with deeper bass.  I'm likely to keep it with my 3300 system and RL 45's I guess.

Barry: I'll send you an email reminder re: a pic of the model # on that one you have and we'll chat next week sometime. 

 

  Thanks, all.

In my home theater setup, I have RL 60.2 as my fronts, and the CX-50 as my rears. I used to have the SUB OUT spliced and plugged into the left and right CD IN on an extra reciever, and have the speaker outs go straight to the Cona (basically giving me an active sub in which the extra reciever controls managed the sub level). This was fine. Now, I got rid of the extra reciever and just run the RL's passively through the Cona.

Interestingly enough, I just got a pair of 6000 and am debating whether or not to sell my Cona. I'm going to end up using attenuated cables for the 6000, in which case, I could set the amp settings to "small" for the fronts, so that all the base goes to the Cona. But then again, I'd be losing out on how the 6000's were truly meant to sound. 

Now that I think about it, I'll probably part with the Cona. It was a great ride. The thing people need to remember is that a lot of bass doesn't mean better sound, and I think the 6000 do a good job on their own.

Earle:

Now that I think about it, I'll probably part with the Cona. It was a great ride. The thing people need to remember is that a lot of bass doesn't mean better sound, and I think the 6000 do a good job on their own.

I think this becomes a matter of environment, too.  This is all in a large lving/dining room (32x16) with hardwood floors.  My older system (Cona/RL 35's) sounded very nice in here, but I think the 6000's get a little lost on the low end in this space, whereas they sound great in my small office.

We have a large kitchen/family room that this room leads to, in which I plan to add a set of linked speakers. Given that the traffic flow from one room to the other is basically L-shaped, a sub placed in the corner of the L will partially service both rooms.  In terms of the space, we need to move a bit more air than the 6000's will handle. It's not a home theater setup that needs big bass kick, just a fuller sound.  We entertain a lot, and moving from one room to the other is common, so I think it will integrate nicely.

Perhaps I'll rig it up the way that Barry has done: this way I can experiment with the sub I already have (economical, since I already have it) or non B&O sub without having to take the plunge for a Beolab 2 or 11.

 

Yes, I'll admit, environment does matter.... I mean, I'm probably not going to try and fill a church using 4000's. My living room is what I would probably refer to as 'medium' sized. You probably could benefit from the Cona in a larger room, but remember to keep bass settings at top-of-mind, regardless of what sub you end up using; You want 'thump' NOT 'boom' (if that makes sense).

Earle:

Yes, I'll admit, environment does matter.... I mean, I'm probably not going to try and fill a church using 4000's. My living room is what I would probably refer to as 'medium' sized. You probably could benefit from the Cona in a larger room, but remember to keep bass settings at top-of-mind, regardless of what sub you end up using; You want 'thump' NOT 'boom' (if that makes sense).

 

It does make sense...and I guess, the question also arises: will the MCL passive give the Cona any more oompf make it really thump?  It was worth the discussion all around, and I thank you all.

Now, to avoid all of this wiring hoo-ha: does anyone have a Beolab 2 they'd like to unload for <$1k?  lol.